Remote turbo SHO build V2.0

[JustinSane]

what i try and do is rev to about 2500 to 3k and when its time lay into the gas just as the clucth starts to bite, witha stock clutch this ends up in about a 3 second slip lol with a good clutch you can get it locked and moving pretty much with little slip, the trick is to not hold 4 k and dump the clutch rather meet half way so the clutch is at least half gripped about the time 4k is seen on the tach, ohy yeah if you had low RT those 15.1s woulda took you rounds, my ATX only runs 15.9 with a lazy transmision but its consistant and thats what counts, here it is trying to pop a wheelie lol

 

[SASHO91]

I wasn't worried about RT's. More concerned about getting the car to launch...

I know how to launch the car... I just couldn't with the track being the way it was, without breaking anything.

 

[JustinSane]

unless you got good axles you will always have that risk in a SHO making any power, we take 2 lefts and a right with us when we go, we can change one pretty fast lol, area91 is almost 400hp and snaps them like twigs if he isnt carefull. the axles are fuses for the tranny

 

[strings1732]

It's not that I'm having a restriction, It's more or less the fact that I lack some low end torque. I think I've figured out how I'm going to launch it without breaking axles and getting better 60 foots. that'll fix my e.t.'s... If I slip the clutch and do a little heel toe with the clutch and brake I can modulate the throttle to hold boost and get a good launch.

Boost is a little different at altitude and it has been debated by the best of 'em. boost will not see as much of a difference as n/a, but it does still see a big difference.

 

[JustinSane]

if your car dont sit dead still at the lights you risk a red light start, install a line lock on one rear brake line, that way you can focus on just the gas and clutch making it alot easier on you.

 

[yamahaSHO]

Why do you use an N/a example as a reference to an FI car? Being from Colorado, I can fully understand the influence of altitude on an N/a car but isn't there a distortion when you are talking about FI? From what I understand, an FI engine can achieve the same level of O2 in the manifold
at higher elevation as it can at sea level with a slight increase in boost level.

I'm no expert so can someone explain the boost-altitude equation to me?:type:

As quarter mile times get faster, the elevation correction changes. Most NA SHO's are within 30hp of each other, therefore, their ET's aren't far off making the correction factor nearly the same.

 

[strings1732]

if your car dont sit dead still at the lights you risk a red light start, install a line lock on one rear brake line, that way you can focus on just the gas and clutch making it alot easier on you.

A line lock is not going to help me at this point. it's not the car moving that is getting me, It's the clutch engagement. I have it all worked out with a little heel toe though. I just need a little practice. If I do it the way I was doing it last night, the car will launch nicely.


Oh needless to say, I got the car fixed and in the process changed tranny fluid. I used Royal purple synchromax(2 qts) and B&M trick shift synthetic(1 qt) It's never shifted so smoothly.

I found out what happened to my axle. It wasn't what I thought... I didn't brake the axle near the splines, or on the shaft, in fact the shaft is still fine. I actually broke the tripod inside the CV. I started thinking aout it, and I realized this axle was an original axle out of someone's car and it has over 200,000 miles on it. It was my spare and after I broke last time, I put it in, and forgot to change it back to the new one.

 

[strings1732]

well, I got my launch figured out and finally hit a 14.7(fastest it's ever gone and equivalent to a 13 at sea level.). I then tried to repeat it and did the exact same thing. The car bogged, stuttered and the CEL came on. I took it home thinking it was running rich and was going to get some more tuning done. When I hooked up the tweecer, I realized that the rear o2 was not working at all. The issues I've been having, changes in power levels and drivability issues, were, IMHO caused by the lack of a rear o2. Everytime I got on the gas, it changed the fuel maps to try and correct for what the o2 was seeing.(the o2 was coming and going) so I replaced that and I'm going to try and see if I can get some more tuning done today. At the least, I'll see if my drivability issues are gone...

I went ahead and bought a wideband and water injection last night. I should be getting that and installing that next week.

 

[1slickRED89]

does the sea level thing apply to a turbo car though? the reason to compensate for altitude is because the air is thinner, so if your compressing it anyway why not add 2 or 3 PSI and call it a wash. on a belt driven S/C car I can see that it would matter, because the S/C drive ratio is fixed. I would think a turbo car will make whatever boost its told to.

I know this is a topic in the turbo diesel magazines I read. because the newer trucks boost to a certain absolute pressure, so they make the roughly the same power at 6000 as they do sea level, somewhat negating the need for a fudge factor.

 

[strings1732]

the sea level thing applies to basically every car out there. the thing about adding 2-3 psi is that I'm not tuned to handle that yet. I don't have adequate charge cooling either. As, I said it's on its way and hopefully will be installed later next week. I should have some tuning done once I get my wideband installed as well. Once that is installed, I'm planning on upping the boost to a higher level.

 

[yamahaSHO]

Scott, a turbo will have less of an effect, however, there is still a noticeable difference. Pat went from not breaking the wheels loose on his Dinan V12 twin-turbo BMW in Denver, to just lighting them up from a roll in Pueblo. I think there is about a 1,000 ft difference. A 14.7 for you probably equates to a 13.8 - 14.2. Although the turbo will work harder to get you the power at this altitude, you're probably running it out of its efficiency range to do it. As we saw from the 250+ degree intake charge temps last night.... That's sucker is hot.

 

[strings1732]

agreed. I'm just sitting over here screwing with the tweecer. I'm trying to modify my current program(test tune 2, the one you had saved on the laptop). I've got my secondaries opening a little sooner, and I have my rev limiter changed a bit, but I have two questions; "WOT fuel multiplier", to add fuel, lower the number, or raise it? And what is "adaptive control maximum ACT"?

 

[yamahaSHO]

To richen the mixture on the WOTFM, you'll want to lower the number. Change the numbers in VERY small increments as it will richen up the mixture quickly.

I'm not positive, but I think the adaptive control on the ACT is the point where the it stops using the ACT and trips a code. Don't quote me on that.... My ACT isn't in the intake tract.

 

[HotRodKid]

I'm not positive, but I think the adaptive control on the ACT is the point where the it stops using the ACT and trips a code. Don't quote me on that.... My ACT isn't in the intake tract.

adaptive control settings are when the ECU will do its tuning

swapping the numbers for the min & max values (high value in the min section, low value in the max section) will shut off adaptive learning

this allows you to tune the car without having the ECU muddle with things at the same time

no codes result from this - the turbo atx has been running with adaptive shut off since the 2nd week the car was on the road ... id turn it back on but i cant tune the car

 

[strings1732]

I know that when you reverse the numbers it turns adaptive learning off. I'm trying to see what the point is in changing the numbers? If the max is at 150* will it only learn up to 150*? should I raise it to 200 then?

 

[yamahaSHO]

adaptive control settings are when the ECU will do its tuning

swapping the numbers for the min & max values (high value in the min section, low value in the max section) will shut off adaptive learning

this allows you to tune the car without having the ECU muddle with things at the same time

no codes result from this - the turbo atx has been running with adaptive shut off since the 2nd week the car was on the road ... id turn it back on but i cant tune the car

I was thinking it said 250, not 150. At 254 degrees, it will set off a code.

I know about reversing the numbers, however, on the ACT, it's kind of pointless. You can do some tuning with it, however, I've run without my ACT in the intake tract and I know others that have run it on the inlet side of the blower and we've not had problems.

Reversing the numbers for Lambda would be more beneficial as it will let you see exactly what the car runs for fuel, however, if the car is running rich or lean, that's exactly what you'll be doing. I stick to watching the LAMBSE 1&2 and the KAM values that are learned.

 

[Sho Amo]

is the video you put online current?

 

[strings1732]

the two on streetfire? No. I had a lot more lag then. It builds boost damn near instantly compared to then. I do not have any current in car videos of how it runs now. I'm going to get some tuning done today and hopefully, I will be able to get some soon.

 

[strings1732]

so I got my exhaust after the turbo done and installed. It's a 2.5" v-band ****** with a 2.5-3" adapter welded on. It goes straight to the passenger side, has a 90* bend back into a dynomax race bullet muffler(glass pack/resonator basically) and into a turn down tip. It hangs on the passenger side exhaust hanger similar to stock. When you are standing from about 10 feet away, you still can't see the exhaust and now all you see is my oil return line from the turbo hanging down. It's louder at idle than having no downpipe, but at higher RPMs, its pretty quiet. I can actually hear my motor again, except at idle. It seems to be spooling quicker as well with the added back-pressure after the turbo. I had done some research before and I came to the conclusion that having some kind of mild back-pressure after the turbo would actually help it spool better/quicker, but it would choke it at the top end if it was too much. the way I have my exhaust setup, it's not going to choke anything, but it does add just enough back-pressure to aid in spooling. My water injecgtion and wideband come in tomorrow, so hopefully they will be installed soon and I will be able to tune it fully as well as up the boost...

 

[Axianator]

I know that when you reverse the numbers it turns adaptive learning off. I'm trying to see what the point is in changing the numbers? If the max is at 150* will it only learn up to 150*? should I raise it to 200 then?

If you leave the factory values of 0 DegF and 150 DegF in the minimum and maximum adaptive ACT scalars respectively, then the EEC will only learn adaptive corrections while the ACT sensor returns a temperature between 0 and 150 DegF. Keep in mind, though, that adaptive learning is only performed under closed loop operation while under certain conditions. Once you leave closed loop and enter open loop - either by exceeding a certain throttle position, engine load, or both - then adaptive learning takes a back seat until you have once again entered closed loop mode and said certain conditions have been satisified.