Recent Engine Trouble.

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PhayenK

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I own a 95 MTX 3.0 Sho. It is at 145k mi, and has had its 120k mi tune up done. My g/f dad (who found me the car) recently decided to clean the throttle body, stating that it would improve the performance of its age. He used carb cleaner and toothbrushes to clean the throttle body from where the hose from the air filter box connects. Right where the throttle plate is. Afterwards, he put everything back together, and now it has a problem. It has a bad hesitation in the early RPM's around 1-3k and then after that it will pull like normal. Also, when idleing it will sometimes (not often) get really low, and the interior/exterior lights will dim for half a second before going back to normal. One last thing it does now that it didn't is when I shift into first, sometimes it acts like it wants to stall and then makes this loud clank noise and starts going like normal. Some background information on it since I've had it: I brought it from AZ to CA and couldn't pass emmisions. I eneded up getting new cat converters. And that fixed the problem. Its had all of its oil changes and fluids kept up. Nothing else has ever gone slightly wrong since I've owned it. I was wondering what the cause to this would be and if there was something I could do to fix it. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 

SHOtimer

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Have you tried disconnecting the battery and resetting the computer? Their should be a sticker inside the throttle body that says not to do exactly what he did.

Doug
 

thecrew2999

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yeah carb cleaner is bad for plastic and other things... when you go to clean the throttlbe body which usually never needs it you use something else
 

PhayenK

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Yeah, I've reset the computer. And I actually think it ran better for the first ten minutes afterwards. Is there anything I can do? Or am I SOL?
 

PhayenK

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I pulled the codes last night and this is what I got:

116 (O,R) Engine Coolant (ECT) sensor out of range - ECT

211 (M) Ignition PIP signal was erratic or missing - Ignition Systems

538 (R) System did not receive "goose" test

542 (O,M) Fuel pump open, bad ground or always on - - Power / Fuel Pump Circuits

I don't know what this is really saying... but it all sounds like very bad things. Any help would again be appreciated. Thanks!
 

Electricat

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PhayenK said:
I pulled the codes last night and this is what I got:

116 (O,R) Engine Coolant (ECT) sensor out of range - ECT

211 (M) Ignition PIP signal was erratic or missing - Ignition Systems

538 (R) System did not receive "goose" test

542 (O,M) Fuel pump open, bad ground or always on - - Power / Fuel Pump Circuits

I don't know what this is really saying... but it all sounds like very bad things. Any help would again be appreciated. Thanks!

Three of those codes are nothing to worry about.....

The 116 is probably because you didn't run the engine enough to warm it up first. The 538 is because you didn't give it some gas at the appropriate time during the test. Re-read the instructions about how the test is to be performed. The 542 is an oddball code that seems to pop up now and then...since the car runs, the fuel pump is obviously working, so don't worry about this one.

As for the 211, that is code for the crankshaft sensor, that senses where the crank is at in it's rotation, and sends a signal to make the ignition fire at the correct time. I don't see how it could be related to your TB cleaning issue tho.

Clear out the present codes, drive the car a little, and then re-run the test, carefully following instructions, and then see what you get. :)
 

PhayenK

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I rechecked the codes to my best ability bringing it to normal temperature, and then pushing the gas/turning the wheel at the right times. Here's what I got:

536 (O,R,M) Brake On Off open or shorted to ground - BOO

538 (R) System did not receive "goose" test

So the first three disappeared, which is good I hope. But this new one came up. It came up when the car was in KOER phase. Any help, again, is really appreciated, I just want my car to be normal again.
 

PhayenK

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Also, I don't know if this is an indicator of everything, but my gas light comes on really early it seems like. It comes on at about 1/4 tank. Which, it didn't used to come on till almost at the E. Just thought that might help.
 

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