93rev2sev
SHO Member
OK Roady....time to SHO us your fabricating abilities...
J/K....
I would like to see what you came up with, though...
J/K....
I would like to see what you came up with, though...
Rear Tension Strut Rod Problem
- Thread starter Roady94
- Start date
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sdpatt
Sr. SHO Engr.
After reading this topic, I found I was presented with the urgent need to replace the control arms and ball joints on the front. This was to be a warranty replacement of the Moog parts that were installed about 80,000 miles ago. While I was going to have the suspension apart, I thought it was a good opportunity to upgrade the stock tension strut rod (TSR) bushings that were installed with the last control arms with the blue Moog thermoplastic resin (TPR) bushings. This topic kept the rear suspension in my thoughts and I also purchased the rear TSR Moog TPR bushings.
Well, the rear TSR bushings are much easier to access than the fronts. the total job at the back took less than an hour this morning. I was pleased to find that my 16.75 year old Texas car did not suffer from the same rusty fate as the SHO that is the subject of this topic. The picture of the rear tension strut receiver and frame side rod end are shown below. All I can say is rust sucks.
It is also good to hear and feel a new tightness to the suspension as I travel over bumps. The OEM rubber bushings at the rear were not in bad shape; only surface cracks with good pliability. The TPR bushings are mcuh firmer to the touch and do not noticeably transmit any more road noise into the cabin. For the small cash outlay of the bushings, a nice bang for the buck service. The parts involved are listed below. With more time to prepare, the RockAuto prices would be tough to beat.
Front TSR bushings, frame side: Moog K8516 RA.com $18.62 1ea
Front TSR bushings, spindle side: Moog K8613 RA.com $6.04 2ea (not installed)
Rear TSR bushings, frame side: Moog K8675 RA.com $29.79 2ea
Rear TSR bushings, spindle side: Moog K8649 RA.com $8.04 2ea
Well, the rear TSR bushings are much easier to access than the fronts. the total job at the back took less than an hour this morning. I was pleased to find that my 16.75 year old Texas car did not suffer from the same rusty fate as the SHO that is the subject of this topic. The picture of the rear tension strut receiver and frame side rod end are shown below. All I can say is rust sucks.
It is also good to hear and feel a new tightness to the suspension as I travel over bumps. The OEM rubber bushings at the rear were not in bad shape; only surface cracks with good pliability. The TPR bushings are mcuh firmer to the touch and do not noticeably transmit any more road noise into the cabin. For the small cash outlay of the bushings, a nice bang for the buck service. The parts involved are listed below. With more time to prepare, the RockAuto prices would be tough to beat.
Front TSR bushings, frame side: Moog K8516 RA.com $18.62 1ea
Front TSR bushings, spindle side: Moog K8613 RA.com $6.04 2ea (not installed)
Rear TSR bushings, frame side: Moog K8675 RA.com $29.79 2ea
Rear TSR bushings, spindle side: Moog K8649 RA.com $8.04 2ea
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If you make these and they work, would you be interested in making more and selling them?
Yamaha V6
SHO Enthusiast
Yes, I do. Since I'm only on here occasionally, best to email or PM.
- Extra update because of the interest in this thread. Pics below show a mock-up of the front plate. No welding done yet. The cupped washer is original to the car and perfectly servicable, so I worked it into the plan. The through-tube will be cut to length as soon as "length" is established.
No work yet on the rear plate, but the rear washer is gone, so I'll follow the plan for that.
Pic 1 Pic 2 Pic 3
Props to Sho Parts Northwest. The used TSR's they sent me cleaned up perfectly. No rust, and dead straight, as promised. At a cost of $39.50 total for the two of them - including shipping, I couldn't be happier. Thanks guys.
- Jay
PS to NJSHO: I don't intend to make any more of these, but if there is interest, I'll be happy to post actual dimensions and sources for material. The plates are being cut from steel covers for a 4" x 4" electrical box, and the through-tube is cut from a steel 1-1/4" electrical conduit coupler. Yup - I was the only guy in the electrical aisle with a vernier caliper in hand. I noticed two employees look at me and just walk away. I guess I really looked like a "problem customer".
No work yet on the rear plate, but the rear washer is gone, so I'll follow the plan for that.
Pic 1 Pic 2 Pic 3
Props to Sho Parts Northwest. The used TSR's they sent me cleaned up perfectly. No rust, and dead straight, as promised. At a cost of $39.50 total for the two of them - including shipping, I couldn't be happier. Thanks guys.
- Jay
PS to NJSHO: I don't intend to make any more of these, but if there is interest, I'll be happy to post actual dimensions and sources for material. The plates are being cut from steel covers for a 4" x 4" electrical box, and the through-tube is cut from a steel 1-1/4" electrical conduit coupler. Yup - I was the only guy in the electrical aisle with a vernier caliper in hand. I noticed two employees look at me and just walk away. I guess I really looked like a "problem customer".
93rev2sev
SHO Member
That steel does not look very thick.
- Agreed. I wasn't going for "very thick", just "thick enough" to do the job correctly. With this assembly there will be more steel in thickness (+.080") and area on the forward side than there was from the factory. Steel on the rear side will be equal to the factory in thickness, and greater in area.
Remember that adding thickness to the rear of the mounting point will push the hub towards the rear of the car by the same amount. I would have to shave the bushings to compensate.
The planned assembly will exceed factory strength considerably when the two pieces sandwich the mounting point, and will not change the original location of the hub.
- Jay
- Finally got some time today to finish fabrication of the front piece. I'm declaring it short on purdy and long on sturdy. Not much to show for the rear piece. Just the flat plate with a hole in the middle to recieve the tube.
Pic 1, Pic 2, Pic 3, Pic 4.
Two coats of rust preventative on these and the replacement TSR's. Final assembly of the rear suspension tomorrow. I've discovered that the bias valves are frozen. After reading a lot of posts, I'm going to remove the valves and weld them to make plugs. Can't find specifics on this process anywhere so I hope it's apparent when I pull them out.
More to come.
- Jay
Pic 1, Pic 2, Pic 3, Pic 4.
Two coats of rust preventative on these and the replacement TSR's. Final assembly of the rear suspension tomorrow. I've discovered that the bias valves are frozen. After reading a lot of posts, I'm going to remove the valves and weld them to make plugs. Can't find specifics on this process anywhere so I hope it's apparent when I pull them out.
More to come.
- Jay
Racer X
SHO Pilot, Retired
Hey Jay, any update on this?
- Update. Yes, and no. Yes, it is installed and works just great. No, I can't find the pics I took. I definitely have pics, just need to dig them out.
Nothing more to see though. Pic 4 above shows the front half cut to size and explains the rear. I prepped all surfaces and double-coated them with Rust Bullet. I also used butyl rubber caulking between the "sandwiching" parts I fabbed and the mounting surface they sandwich between them.
I wanted to completely eliminate any water infiltrating the assembly. The caulk achieved 100% coverage as evidenced by squeeze-out. Sprayed on rubberized undercoating to make everything black. Let it set up. Assembled the rear TSR and bushings. All is now well with that part of my personal SHO world.
Need more? Ask away.
Thanks for your interest.
- Jay
Nothing more to see though. Pic 4 above shows the front half cut to size and explains the rear. I prepped all surfaces and double-coated them with Rust Bullet. I also used butyl rubber caulking between the "sandwiching" parts I fabbed and the mounting surface they sandwich between them.
I wanted to completely eliminate any water infiltrating the assembly. The caulk achieved 100% coverage as evidenced by squeeze-out. Sprayed on rubberized undercoating to make everything black. Let it set up. Assembled the rear TSR and bushings. All is now well with that part of my personal SHO world.
Need more? Ask away.
Thanks for your interest.
- Jay
Racer X
SHO Pilot, Retired
Jay, a couple of questions:
1) Were you able to get dimensions of the finished pieces?
2) On the locating rings.. did you weld yours to the 1 1/2" metal conduit, or was it a press fit, or what? Both of mine are intact, so I can reuse both.
Let me know when you can, thanks.
- Hamal
1) Were you able to get dimensions of the finished pieces?
2) On the locating rings.. did you weld yours to the 1 1/2" metal conduit, or was it a press fit, or what? Both of mine are intact, so I can reuse both.
Let me know when you can, thanks.
- Hamal
Good questions, Hamal.
1) Were you able to get dimensions of the finished pieces?
I did not take any measurements of the final pieces. I started with a 4" x 4" piece of steel for each of the two "sandwich" pieces. That was more than enough material.
I used a piece of standard printer paper to begin the template. Just forced it into place and traced the edges with a fingernail. Trimmed it a bit to fit and transferred that to some file-folder material. Then to some light cardboard for the final template.
The final shape will be odd after you cut reliefs for the drain holes and shroud.
2) On the locating rings.. did you weld yours to the 1 1/2" metal conduit, or was it a press fit, or what?
The conduit was not a press fit with the ring. I started with the front-side "sandwich" piece, placing it into position and tracing the hole for the TSR. I cut the hole carefully to allow just enough clearance to pass the conduit.
I then welded the conduit to the back of this "sandwich" piece, leaving the end of the conduit protruding through the front by the thickness of the locating ring. I then centered the front-side ring on the protruding conduit and welded them together. The welds don't show in the pic because I ground them down.
Hope this helps. If not, ask more.
This fix is still solid.
- Jay
1) Were you able to get dimensions of the finished pieces?
I did not take any measurements of the final pieces. I started with a 4" x 4" piece of steel for each of the two "sandwich" pieces. That was more than enough material.
I used a piece of standard printer paper to begin the template. Just forced it into place and traced the edges with a fingernail. Trimmed it a bit to fit and transferred that to some file-folder material. Then to some light cardboard for the final template.
The final shape will be odd after you cut reliefs for the drain holes and shroud.
2) On the locating rings.. did you weld yours to the 1 1/2" metal conduit, or was it a press fit, or what?
The conduit was not a press fit with the ring. I started with the front-side "sandwich" piece, placing it into position and tracing the hole for the TSR. I cut the hole carefully to allow just enough clearance to pass the conduit.
I then welded the conduit to the back of this "sandwich" piece, leaving the end of the conduit protruding through the front by the thickness of the locating ring. I then centered the front-side ring on the protruding conduit and welded them together. The welds don't show in the pic because I ground them down.
Hope this helps. If not, ask more.
This fix is still solid.
- Jay
Racer X
SHO Pilot, Retired
Jay, you are the effin man.
Using your directions, I was able to fabricate my own plate to correct this issue in my car.
The final product is beyond solid, and I'm fairly certain that it will likely outlast the car!
Thanks again man, I owe you a beer if I ever run into you one of these days!
Using your directions, I was able to fabricate my own plate to correct this issue in my car.
The final product is beyond solid, and I'm fairly certain that it will likely outlast the car!
Thanks again man, I owe you a beer if I ever run into you one of these days!
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