Rear Calipers

[Glue Maker]

Tomorrow I am planning on changing out my rear pads (did the fronts about 2k ago). My question is, how do you squeeze the piston back in? I know that you are supposed to turn them in counter clockwise, but that didn’t work when I had the calipers off for painting. I turned them about 1- 1 1/2 times and they didn't seem to move at all. Is there a proper way to do this?

 

[F1reb1rd]

Well, you kinda need a special tool for it, and you turn them CLOCKWISE, not counter-clockwise. If you don't have a special tool, you can try to use needle-nose pliars, but I just tried that earlier this week, and was not happenin. It has to push in while it spins clockwise. So, best I can say is go get the tool for turning in the rear brake calipers. You should be able to get one at most auto parts stores.

Hope that helps.

 

[Jesus Tree LumberJack]

The tool from a parts store looks like a 2" cube with different adaptors on each side. It connects to a racket but is a pain in the ***. I just did this job and I found the easiest way is to use channel locks. They're easier to get in there and you can get more distance per turn over the adapter. If it's tough to turn or it doesn't look like the piston is moving, unscrew the bleeder valve and it should be no problem (unless the piston is seized up).

 

[Glue Maker]

Sorry I did know the clockwise direction, just half asleep.

So pressure is what I need, huh?

 

[Glue Maker]

The tool from a parts store looks like a 2" cube with different adaptors on each side. It connects to a racket but is a pain in the ***. I just did this job and I found the easiest way is to use channel locks. They're easier to get in there and you can get more distance per turn over the adapter. If it's tough to turn or it doesn't look like the piston is moving, unscrew the bleeder valve and it should be no problem (unless the piston is seized up).

It does turn, just doesn't seem to go in. It was too big for my channel locks, so I couldn't do that.... Guess I'll by a bigger one

 

[F1reb1rd]

No dude, get the tool or borrow it off someone. Your gonna end up strippin the **** out of the grooves in the piston. Just get the tool off someone, will make **** TONS easier. All you do with the right tool is use a socket/wratchet and it turns that puppy right in there.

I had the same problem with mine...

 

[Glue Maker]

Guess I'll do that then...


Did you barrow the tool from some parts store?

 

[SHOZ123]

Take the bleeder screw out. Otherwise you are forcing the fluid back and encountering a lot of resistance from the proportioning valve.

 

[SHODWN]

Glue maker, when looking at the piston you are looking a free floating backing pad, it stays in one position all the time while on the car with brakes on it, if you turn it with out pushing the piston it will turn for ever. It sits ontop of the piston and you need good clamping force to turn it. I have a old large C_ clamp that works fine because as you apply force the foor on the clamp will turn with the screw. So if you have one of these you can also make that work. You also can use a clamp with a little less force but make it tight and then turn it but you have to stay on top of it to make this method work.

Its much eaiser to go borrow the tool from Autozone. you can also make your own for the next time, just cut the old pad up and cut the circle you see from the piston and go buy a clamp and weld the circle on to the end of the screw..

Pauls Idea of the bleeder screw is a good one, but try to figure out when the last time they were bled, sometimes the bleeder will snap off then leave you in a hard spot.

 

[10ktgold]

i had mine off and i couldnt get the damn piston in , enevn with the bleeder out and using a vise to push the piston it , in wouldnt move , so now i have no rear brakes or an emergancy brake , 60.00 a piece for loaded calipers tho

 

[ES96SHO]

Screw It!

i had mine off and i couldnt get the damn piston in , enevn with the bleeder out and using a vise to push the piston it , in wouldnt move , so now i have no rear brakes or an emergancy brake , 60.00 a piece for loaded calipers tho

I think you may have missed the point of this thread.... The piston needs to be turned in order to move it. No amount of vise pressure will do it without the previously mentioned special or improvised tools.

When I got my GenIII about 5 years ago, one of the first things I did was the rear brakes. After trying the big-axx C-Clamp and numerous swear words all day long, I finally was told that the piston needs to be turned. Got the universal tool from Napa and while it's not a perfect fit, it worked. Just did the rears again last year...dusted off the tool and got the whole thing done in 30 minutes!

 

[Glen Cleeton]

A bit further into it?

Great info as usual guys, it has been on my list for too long.

A question on rotors while we're at it. Is the dealer the place to get bracket bolts and nuts for the rotor, or are folks just re-uisng the old hardware?

Cheers and thanks again to Kirk for the weld in '03.

Glen

 

[Ian Macoomb]

I had problems trying to do mine last summer. I even spent $50 on a tool set made for brakes. It sucked and I end up using the Lisle cube tool. I kept turning and turning and turning and it didn't seem to do anything. Eventually I decided to turn it the opposite way.

I pulled the piston right off and dumped the fluid all over the ground and myself. It's a little tricky getting it back in the boot but once you do they screw right back in with no resistance. Then all you have to do is bleed the brakes.

I recommend a set of speedbleeders and some bias plugs (available from midwestsho.com).

 

[2 4shofast]

Even with the proper tool it took me about 30 minutes to get the piston back down. It looks like it isnt doing anything but eventually it will go down. I hope you have a lot more fun than I did.

 

[Glue Maker]

Finally got the money to pay for the expensive Wagner Thermo-quiets! Now I have them all the way around (dust free saves the bling!) Stops fast enough to throw you through the window

You HAVE to open up the bleeder! I spun that damn caliper about a hundred times before my dad came out and told me to open the bleeder

Also I noticed a cool feature of the SHO. The other day (Car club cruise) the SHO puked up a bit of coolant, but didn't go low until today. The open door tone sounds when it lights up the low coolant light

 

[99V8SHO]

Also I noticed a cool feature of the SHO. The other day (Car club cruise) the SHO puked up a bit of coolant, but didn't go low until today. The open door tone sounds when it lights up the low coolant light

Yep, I found that out not too long ago, as well. Blew my mind when it happened.

 

[Glen Cleeton]

Well, I have to say that rear pads on these is quite uncomplicated. To be honest, it took more time to jack it up and r&r the wheels.

In true me fashion, I had to have the real tool. This will not be the last car I own and many are using this type of system. The real Lisle tool can be found out there for $50-$60 and is a breeze to use. I learned many knuckles ago that a good tool pays for itself. There are some other similar tools for a little less that might even cover more makes and models. Spinning the pistons in, even without the bleeders open, took all of one minute (if that). I do need to flush out the fluid and add that to my list of to dos but for the got to get it done yesterday, the tool was well worth it.

I spent too many years under my cars every weekend and under customers during the week.

I may upgrade to spiffy rotors and other brake upgrades later in the year, as the wallet allows. My original question about re-using the caliper bracket bolts still stands.

I'm thinking that they'll get by without replacement but in the back of my mind I wonder. Heck, I did dozens of head gaskets without giving the studs&nuts/bolts a second thought until working with a factory mechanic that was in the habit of always replacing torqued hardware.

Cheers

Oh yeah, I couldn't help but giggle when I saw the rear pads. Dainty little things, eh?

GC

 

[Glue Maker]

I made a tool out of a flat piece of iron and a big socket After about a hundred turns and 2 people pushing on it, it still wouldn't move.

Opened up the bleeders, and they went in with just a few turns!

Oh yeah, I couldn't help but giggle when I saw the rear pads. Dainty little things, eh?

GC

They are the same calipers and pads as on an SN95 cobra.