Rear brakes

[dodgebusta]

I typically just take a c-clamp that I have out fitted with bolt head on the end and leave the old pad against the piston and just take an air guy to the bolt head until I get it in all the way. I don't call that lazy, just different version of the actual tool, lol.

 

[Devin]

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=40732

20 bucks

Be very careful when buying this, ie: keep the receipt. That's the same tool set I broke trying to turn my piston in.

 

[Storm-Chaser]

Actually, the "face" of the caliper piston is the least important surface, as the steel back-plate for the brake pad sits against it. And if you damage the piston the point the alignment grooves are gone, it was time to replace them anyway...

But using hawkeye's "technique", you're very likely to "dick-up" the outer surface of the caliper piston. This can damage (chew-through) the piston-boot over time, as the caliper piston boot progressively covers the piston as it is rotated back into place. You also risk tearing the caliper piston boot in the process if you slip.

In addition to renting the AutoZone kit, IMO the best thing you can do is buy the relatively inexpensive Harbor Freight rear brake tool set, which is usually on sale for $19.99. Just $20 bucks (and you never have to run back-and-forth to see the AutoDrone idiots again to pick-up and return the kit):

Caliper Tool Set for Disc Brakes
(U.S. General) Item 40732-2VGA
​

I suspect this may be the "new" price for this disc brake kit, as Harbor Freight has introducted a new kit, which it is pricing at $39.99 (the original non-sale price for the above kit):

​

18 Piece Disc Brake Pad and Caliper Service Tool Kit
(Pittsburgh Professional Tools) Item 97143-1VGA
​

I use a big pair of vise grips and grip the circumference of the piston. Works every time, and I don't dick up the face of the piston.

 

[Storm-Chaser]

Yes, pre-treat the boot. It can pseudo-weld itsef to the piston over time, especially if the caliper has been seizing and overheating. As itwonder posted above, if treating it doesn't work, you need to either rebuild the caliper (what fun!) or replace it.

The AZ tool takes 75% of the difficulty out of replacing rear pads. If you spray a little WD40 on the boot before turning the piston, it won't give you any further hassles either. Rear brakes on SHOs are easy to service if you have the right tools.

 

[Storm-Chaser]

If you use the C-clamp "method" for the rear calipers, you will most likely permanently damage the caliper assembly. The reason the piston needs to be rotated back in, is that the piston is mounted on a threaded shaft, that interacts with the emergency brake lever at the other end inside the caliper.

Forcing the piston back in, either strips the interior threads in the piston, or damages the rod which will result in the emergency brake lever sticking after use. This is probably one of the biggest reasons why the rear calipers either freeze-up or fail on SHOs.

Napa had a socket extension designed to turn the piston. And a massive C-clamp turned out to be more effective than the turning anyway.

I typically just take a c-clamp that I have out fitted with bolt head on the end and leave the old pad against the piston and just take an air guy to the bolt head until I get it in all the way. I don't call that lazy, just different version of the actual tool, lol.

 

[Devin]

I was wondering about that because if we are supposed to wind it in, wouldn't there be some consequences of just pushing it back in?

 

[zak]

e-brake lines are easy to get back on. All you need is a good pair of channel locks

Unless you mess up slightly and the return spring goes into orbit somewhere in the garage . . . . then you have to reinstall it.

 

[nothingtoseehere]

Unless you mess up slightly and the return spring goes into orbit somewhere in the garage . . . . then you have to reinstall it.

I take the spring off before I install. Easier to get the cable seated. Then use the channel locks to compress the spring and re-seat it. Takes some time, but seems easier to me than fighting the cable.

 

[SHOMEX]

After reading all the ideas every body has try this: connect a little piece of hose to the bleeder and unbolt the bledder a turn or two; just enough for brake fluid to scape while your turning the rear piston with werever method or tool you want (the hose is just so you dont spit brake fluid all over the place) Then turn the piston and you will notice that it doesn't require almost no pushing or force to get the pistons in; once the piston is compressed close the bleeder and do the other side.
Once you're done putting the brakes back you can bleed the brakes as a safety measure but I can assure you there's no need to bleed them because all you did was push brake fluid out and no air got in, but it doesn't hurt to be safe.

That's just my .02 cents for anybody to try it and not to fight those rear brakes like a ****.

 

[Storm-Chaser]

The above posts brings up an important point with F*** ABS systems. If you simply force the caliper pistons back-in without providing a means to reduce/relieve pressure at the ABS pump, you risk damaging the ABS control unit. This is regardless of whether it is the front calipers which can be compressed with a c-clamp, or the rear calipers that require a tool to turn the caliper piston back-in.

You have to bleed the brakes/calipers anyway once you're done. cracking-open the bleeder screw makes it easier for the caliper to retract while you're compressing/turning it, and prevents excess pressure at that may damage the Hydraulic Control Unit . . . .

 

[jelloslug]

It popped out of place. The spinning of the piston was twisting the boot and caused a section to slide out from between the caliper and the piston.

(btw. wtf, why is a brake job harder than rod bearings? I've started to notice a difference in the equality of engineering between Ford and Yamaha)

It's because most people don't use the correct tool for the job. Imagine trying to do the rod bearings with a pair of pliers.

 

[jonmon6691]

It's because most people don't use the correct tool for the job. Imagine trying to do the rod bearings with a pair of pliers.

Haha, true. But it doesn't require any wierd tools either.

 

[86strokerlx]

Edit: I didn't realize this was my first post. If you look on SVTPerformance and Corral.net, you'll see I'm no newbie!

Here's my process(after jacking up the car, placing jack stands and removing the rear wheels):

1: Remove the brake master cylinder cap
2: Removed calipers, pads and bracket, then remove rotors
3: Reinstall caliper and bracket, less pads, back on to rear hubs(leave the rotors off)
4: Put drip tray under hub, install vacuum hose on brake bleeder and crack the brake line
5: Add your cube to a 3/8" air gun(regulator turned down to 40-60 psi) or electric impact wrench and SLOWLY TAP the trigger as you lean your body weight into the caliper.
6: After piston is collapsed, close the bleeder, remove caliper, install rotors, pads and bleed the brake system.

I have done this countless times with a $5 cube from our local auto parts store and it works as long as you go VERY SLOW. Also do-able with a ratchet but the issue is the swing and loss of force to push on the piston.

I was taught this trick by a senior technician when I started my first dealership job.

Remember, GO SLOW so nothing tears or breaks! Good luck!!

 

[nothingtoseehere]

The cube works, but ... it sucks. I'd rather spend the 15 extra bucka on the correct tool and get it done in half the time.

 

[Phoenix]

The cube works, but ... it sucks. I'd rather spend the 15 extra bucka on the correct tool and get it done in half the time.

It barely works , specially if you have crud and rust in the holes , and the tool slips. Take 20$ and toss it out the window - you'll get the same result.

 

[jonmon6691]

Edit: I didn't realize this was my first post. If you look on SVTPerformance and Corral.net, you'll see I'm no newbie!

Here's my process(after jacking up the car, placing jack stands and removing the rear wheels):

1: Remove the brake master cylinder cap
2: Removed calipers, pads and bracket, then remove rotors
3: Reinstall caliper and bracket, less pads, back on to rear hubs(leave the rotors off)
4: Put drip tray under hub, install vacuum hose on brake bleeder and crack the brake line
5: Add your cube to a 3/8" air gun(regulator turned down to 40-60 psi) or electric impact wrench and SLOWLY TAP the trigger as you lean your body weight into the caliper.
6: After piston is collapsed, close the bleeder, remove caliper, install rotors, pads and bleed the brake system.

I have done this countless times with a $5 cube from our local auto parts store and it works as long as you go VERY SLOW. Also do-able with a ratchet but the issue is the swing and loss of force to push on the piston.

I was taught this trick by a senior technician when I started my first dealership job.

Remember, GO SLOW so nothing tears or breaks! Good luck!!

I did it the exact same way, but with a ratchet (I can't afford those fancy air tools). I put a cloth on the end so I could put a lot of force straight down. I also used a clamp to keep the caliper from moving on the slider pins.

ps. Welcome to the SHO forum:wave: