Rear Brakes

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loosenut

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Is there anything special to know about the process of putting rear pads on a 99 SHO? I have read so much conflicting information about pad sizes and what not. That the SHO have larger ones then a regular Taurus, any ideas as I need some on the rear all of a sudden like.
 

Ian Macoomb

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luigisho

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Get the brake tool set from autozone's loan a tool program. Put down a deposit and it gets refunded when you bring the kit back. I use that program all the time.
 

loosenut

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Well apparently the slide pins had in fact seized up and had caused the rear pads to wear out. Had the rotors turned also as the right rear had a very small groove in it so I just said what the **** and had both turned anyway.
Thanks to all.
 

godspunk32

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Rotors shoudl always be turned or replaced when replacing pads. The pads and the rotors wear into eachother in one way or another, and you need to replace them both at the same time.

How did you unstick the bolts? I ended up getting new caliper brackets with my reman'd calipers.

JR
 

naval-avi8or

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godspunk32 said:
Rotors shoudl always be turned or replaced when replacing pads. The pads and the rotors wear into eachother in one way or another, and you need to replace them both at the same time.

How did you unstick the bolts? I ended up getting new caliper brackets with my reman'd calipers.

JR

I had one freeze up on me a long time ago and the only way I could get it out was to drill a hole in the beack side of the caliper and insert a punch to knock it out. Then I used high temp epoxy (our you could use JB weld etc.) to seal the hole off. I still have that caliper in use today and have had to change the pads several times with no further issues.
 

loosenut

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Well when I found out what all was involved when I took the offending wheel off, I decided that since I don't have a garage, turn in tool, or a way to deal with the slide pins, I put it back on and took it 3 miles down the road to my friends Midas shop. he used some careful application of heat to deal with the pins while I did the rotors and some other stuff. Took us about an hour as it was a teaching session for me so to speak. All in all it was the best move given the factors I listed earlier. Only charged for the pads. We have been taking our cars there for years and has become a good friend too. Had the chance to screw us big time when we first went there years ago, charge us for a new AC unit for our van but he said there was nothing wrong with it, tightened the belt and sent us on our way for nothing. So I kind of think he is on the up and up now.
My next project is to get that 3rd cat and flex pipe aka useless muffler off to wake up the stock mufflers, hopefully that will do some good without habing to totally replace them.
 

Ian Macoomb

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Removing the third cat doesn't make a big difference in the sound. I took out the 3rd cat and resonator and I wasn't too impressed with the change in sound. Aftermarket mufflers or a cut-out is the way to go.

And about the brakes, I just changed my pads last October and I've got a seized pin already. I greased up the pins when I changed the pads and I didn't drive the car in the winter except for one 900 mile trip to NESHO in December. I hate these stupid pins.
 

SHOZ123

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I've been using Kopper Koat an electrical contact corrosion inhibitor. Looks like a never seize but has a lot of copper in it. The stuff will swell the boots a bit so don't over use it. but it will keep the pins free and is near impossible to wear away.

Much better than the silicone crap.
 

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