the on going reality of shopower
trans mech
I am asking those who have upgraded the rear brakes on the SHO how you do it. I want to put the stock front size rotors on the back how ??
rear brake upgrade
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luigisho
SHO Member
I just bought the kit from midwest SHo or maybe SHONUT sells it too. You need new brackets to move the calipers the right distance to fit a larger rotor. Also the kit uses the '96 upgrade sized rotors and has a spacer to fill the larger hole of the rotor to the smaller rear hub.
Ishodu
SHO Member
You also need calipers that will clear the thicker disks. 89-92 ones I think.
Fourcats
SHO Member
What would be the point of more brakes on the rear? :corn:
Ishodu
SHO Member
Some people do it for looks, others think they need more.Fourcats said:
Doug Waschenko
New Member
On my other cars, larger rear brakes change the way the suspension transfers motion to the front in hard braking.
The larger rotors don't seem to noticiably decrease braking distances to me, it's more that the rear stays down more and theoretically the rear tires get loaded more for more traction.
I haven't put the 11.6's on my 92 yet but I would expect to have this effect. I would think that the big rear brakes would therefore change the handling flavor of the car somewhat. Some people who are used to street car handling set ups might not like the change. It is more of a race car modification but does work safely on the street. I have used oversized rears on other vehicles.
The big rears should definately make the car easier to handle in a maximum panic stop. Also in the years before ABS existed, we used the largest brakes we could get on to reduce brake lock up in maximum braking efforts.
If you lock the rears, the tail will come around. That usually isn't a good thing.
I have heard no bad things about the 11.6 rotors in the rear on the SHO, only that it isn't really needed. Neither is a supercharger, huh?
My concern would be how durable the spacer ring is. Hopefully it isn't terrably stressed in this set up. I'm always concerned about the weak link in any setup.
The larger rotors don't seem to noticiably decrease braking distances to me, it's more that the rear stays down more and theoretically the rear tires get loaded more for more traction.
I haven't put the 11.6's on my 92 yet but I would expect to have this effect. I would think that the big rear brakes would therefore change the handling flavor of the car somewhat. Some people who are used to street car handling set ups might not like the change. It is more of a race car modification but does work safely on the street. I have used oversized rears on other vehicles.
The big rears should definately make the car easier to handle in a maximum panic stop. Also in the years before ABS existed, we used the largest brakes we could get on to reduce brake lock up in maximum braking efforts.
If you lock the rears, the tail will come around. That usually isn't a good thing.
I have heard no bad things about the 11.6 rotors in the rear on the SHO, only that it isn't really needed. Neither is a supercharger, huh?
My concern would be how durable the spacer ring is. Hopefully it isn't terrably stressed in this set up. I'm always concerned about the weak link in any setup.
DemonNeno
SHOCAGO Freak
This is NOT a good mod for the ABS-less SHOs... I do agree that bigger rear brakes will aid proportioning the braking to promote flatter stopping, which I would LOVE. Unforunately, the '89 would be the perfect candidate for fish-tail fever if I were to ever... Other than that, sporting >11" rotors in the front and weak 10.2" in the rear just looks plain ********!
Yamaha V6
SHO Enthusiast
The spacer ring really is only there to help center. The load is taken directly on the lug studs / friction interface between the wheel / brake / spindle, basically.
FYI, with the rear 11.6's, you will eat through the rear pads very quickly. Keep an extra set (or two) around.
Having used the 11.6" vented rears on street & track for the past year & a half or so on 2 cars (lighter-weight 91 track, Full-weight & then some 95 ATX street & track), it's a "how do you like it" modification - some will, some won't. Don't consider this a necessary modification by any means. With a number of dual-piston PBR caliper based front upgrades available now, I'd start there now, personally.
FYI, with the rear 11.6's, you will eat through the rear pads very quickly. Keep an extra set (or two) around.
Having used the 11.6" vented rears on street & track for the past year & a half or so on 2 cars (lighter-weight 91 track, Full-weight & then some 95 ATX street & track), it's a "how do you like it" modification - some will, some won't. Don't consider this a necessary modification by any means. With a number of dual-piston PBR caliper based front upgrades available now, I'd start there now, personally.
the on going reality of shopower
trans mech
I was just wondering any how but thanks guys I gotta tell ya the 96 brake upgrade is sweet on my 93 ATX now
How much you want to spend?
The benefits of larger rear brakes is far more relative to the weight of the car and where that weight is and just the size of the rotor.
More rear brake is great. Until you go too far. And panic stopping is 'it'. Sorry, but if you are in a panic situation the last thing you want is rear lock up. Granted ABS may save your a$$, but that's not reallly what it's for.
On the other hand a properly fit larger rear kit when paired with the proper larger front kit may well prove some value. And if it's on a car with stiff rebound shocks out back or heavy springs up front you might even get some real value out of it. It's about dynamic brake bias. i.e. the effects of wheight shift on brake bias.
If I were to put such a large kit on the rear I'd really consider a proper proportioning valve and no bias plugs. At least this way you can have some control over what is happening back there.
The benefits of larger rear brakes is far more relative to the weight of the car and where that weight is and just the size of the rotor.
More rear brake is great. Until you go too far. And panic stopping is 'it'. Sorry, but if you are in a panic situation the last thing you want is rear lock up. Granted ABS may save your a$$, but that's not reallly what it's for.
On the other hand a properly fit larger rear kit when paired with the proper larger front kit may well prove some value. And if it's on a car with stiff rebound shocks out back or heavy springs up front you might even get some real value out of it. It's about dynamic brake bias. i.e. the effects of wheight shift on brake bias.
If I were to put such a large kit on the rear I'd really consider a proper proportioning valve and no bias plugs. At least this way you can have some control over what is happening back there.
Doug Waschenko
New Member
My 92 was stock with 10" front and 10" rear rotors. The proportion is the same as going to 11.6 to 11.6.
The adjustment you have to make for the rear is the bias plugs.
I don't think anyone is in over thier head with the 11.6/11.6 set up.
The reality is that the 11.6 rears are more for looks then performance.
Keep all the old parts and if you don't like the 11.6 rears put the little guys back on. You really don't even need to bleed the brakes.
You know thinking about it, I don't think that I ever locked up the stock 10" rears with the ABS simply because the rear never came around, but I'm not 100% certain though because the freakin" pedal vibrates so bad when the ABS kicks in that it stuns me and it takes a while to clear my head of the vibrations.
Just in case you're wondering, my front rotors (10") were blue when I switched over to the 11.6's.
My mechanic wanted to know exactly what the **** I do to this car? He should never know, he wouldn't talk to me if he did.
The adjustment you have to make for the rear is the bias plugs.
I don't think anyone is in over thier head with the 11.6/11.6 set up.
The reality is that the 11.6 rears are more for looks then performance.
Keep all the old parts and if you don't like the 11.6 rears put the little guys back on. You really don't even need to bleed the brakes.
You know thinking about it, I don't think that I ever locked up the stock 10" rears with the ABS simply because the rear never came around, but I'm not 100% certain though because the freakin" pedal vibrates so bad when the ABS kicks in that it stuns me and it takes a while to clear my head of the vibrations.
Just in case you're wondering, my front rotors (10") were blue when I switched over to the 11.6's.
My mechanic wanted to know exactly what the **** I do to this car? He should never know, he wouldn't talk to me if he did.
Yamaha V6
SHO Enthusiast
Agreed Todd - would have liked to have had a proper proportioning valve on the back of the track 91, especially with the Wilwood 4-pots up front.
I go back & forth on whether or not I prefer having the bias plug in the back of my 95 with the 11.6's all around. I'm currently leaning toward having the stock proportioning valves back there, honestly, but I'd like to see a mod to the PV bracket where it lands on the control arm.
I go back & forth on whether or not I prefer having the bias plug in the back of my 95 with the 11.6's all around. I'm currently leaning toward having the stock proportioning valves back there, honestly, but I'd like to see a mod to the PV bracket where it lands on the control arm.
Shoaz
Studly dood
Yamaha V6 said:
No kidding. I trail brake a lot and the PV makes the brakes behave differently in left turns than in right turns, since it'll turn off the rears more in left turns than in right. It's definitely an imperfect system, but since hard braking is almost always in a straight line it serves a very useful purpose.
Right now I get occassional ABS activity in the rear under trail braking in right hand corners, which limits how much brake I can make use of in the rear. If I had a real proportioning valve it not only wouldn't care which way I was turning, it would allow better adjustment to tune as the fuel burns off, etc.
revhardSHO
SHO Member
Is there a braking difference between bias plugs and just simply zip-tieing the PV arm up to the body?
Slo-Sho
It wasn't me!
Yes. Simply put, w/o ABS during a maximum panic stop the LR wheel will lock up followed by the RR. (In my experience)
Shoaz
Studly dood
revhardSHO said:
Probably not much. The plugs may open up the lines a little more, I don't really know.
FWIW, I had my PV zip-tied for a while after I put in the BMR control arms while I worked on a new bracket. Worked pretty well like that, no problems.
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