Rear brake question, need opinions/help.

[shoreracer92]

Ok. first, you guys rock and are an awesome help. second, i already searched the heck outta this, so please don't yell at me. i just need your opinions, a lil help, and maybe a place to get parts. heres the thing, i found that my p/s rear caliper is hanging up, and i do believe the line is crushing in on itself when heating up. so i am going to get the russel steel line kit and do the rears (out of necessity now, fronts are waiting for the upgrade). should i do the 11.6 upgrade in the rear now? and if i use the kit from shosource, then get a pair of rebuilt calipers and a pair of new rotors, that all i need? will it affect my braking (abs is in and fine) negativly? do i need bias plugs or a prop valve or something? and what is the name of the valve/part that the brake lines go into/out of in the rear of the car? i mean it looks like a dist block, but i've never seen the rod/spring type of thing on it. any help would be great...thanks guys.

 

[LOUDSHO92]

You can do the rear brake upgrade if you want. The caliper and rotors are all you need.

It will not have a negative impact and bias plugs are not needed.

 

[shoreracer92]

You can do the rear brake upgrade if you want. The caliper and rotors are all you need.

It will not have a negative impact and bias plugs are not needed.

but don't i need the "kit" from shosource? the rings, and brackets to move the stock replacement caliper out? and just another noob question, well 2 actually. this would mean (when front upgrade is done) that i have 11.6 at all 4 corners? and is there anyway to get a slightly bigger pad in there? because i understand that this is, mostly, a cosmetic upgrade, so the contact area is the same because the caliper/pad is stock. and quickly...i have 17"s so i'm pretty sure they'll fir over, but will the slicers? i plan on doing the cobra 11.6 in the front and i'm pretty sure i say the slicers will clear that, so there shouldn't be any issues with the rear... thanks again!

 

[sperold]

If your wheel rim is getting hot after you drive the car, then your caliper is hanging up. It is probably because the steel loop that your flex line passes through (to keep it from flopping around) has rusted and closed the hole it forms and is strangling your hose. The first gen SHOs did this alot. Try opening that metal loop first.
The flex hoses sometimes fail internally and block the flow back out of the caliper (your foot pressure forces it into the caliper, nothing forces it back out).
The third thing that might be the problem, is the slider pins in your caliper may be less than free moving, and you can fix that by dis-assembling and freeing them up by hand.
The forth thing it may be, is your parking brake cable may not be returning like it should, and you can pull it back to the relaxed position by crawling under the car with your tire iron and leveraging the pig tail spring you will find, back to the relaxed position.
None of these are expensive things to fix, if you decide to delay your ultimate fixes/improvements.

 

[shoreracer92]

If your wheel rim is getting hot after you drive the car, then your caliper is hanging up. It is probably because the steel loop that your flex line passes through (to keep it from flopping around) has rusted and closed the hole it forms and is strangling your hose. The first gen SHOs did this alot. Try opening that metal loop first.
The flex hoses sometimes fail internally and block the flow back out of the caliper (your foot pressure forces it into the caliper, nothing forces it back out).
The third thing that might be the problem, is the slider pins in your caliper may be less than free moving, and you can fix that by dis-assembling and freeing them up by hand.
The forth thing it may be, is your parking brake cable may not be returning like it should, and you can pull it back to the relaxed position by crawling under the car with your tire iron and leveraging the pig tail spring you will find, back to the relaxed position.
None of these are expensive things to fix, if you decide to delay your ultimate fixes/improvements.

when it gets hot (about a half hour of driving) the vibration/smell/squeaking starts. the last time vicki did it, i got home jacked it up and the tire was damn near rock solid. after about 10-15 min of messing with it and burning my banana-hand knuckles it just released out of nowhere. i managed to replicate that twice...drive/hot/lockup/cool/release. so i'm going to look through your checklist, and i def thank you for it, but if its a simple repair i do believe the damage is done... the vibration, i'm assuming, is a warped rotor. and once i get into that i generaly do the whole shabang. i'm going to try to get into this week, we're supposed to have rain mon-wed here (jersey) so i'll do my best and report back... :thankyou:

 

[LOUDSHO92]

but don't i need the "kit" from shosource? the rings, and brackets to move the stock replacement caliper out? and just another noob question, well 2 actually. this would mean (when front upgrade is done) that i have 11.6 at all 4 corners? and is there anyway to get a slightly bigger pad in there? because i understand that this is, mostly, a cosmetic upgrade, so the contact area is the same because the caliper/pad is stock. and quickly...i have 17"s so i'm pretty sure they'll fir over, but will the slicers? i plan on doing the cobra 11.6 in the front and i'm pretty sure i say the slicers will clear that, so there shouldn't be any issues with the rear... thanks again!

Yes you need the kit.

By moving the caliper out you increase the moment arm and therefore create more braking power. So it is an upgrade.