Rear brake dragging while driving

[Dubpander]

I've searched a bit on here to find my answers, but to no avail. I've got a 91 mtx and the rear/parking brake is sticking. I don't use the parking brake because it's ineffective at holding the car. On the lower of the priority list. So, I don't believe it's the cable sticking. I can go weeks with no problem. Then all of a sudden will get a wicked shimmy cruising at 45. Rear wheels are HOT and brake pads are stinkin. Sometimes and presss e-brake to floor and release several times and will get better. But, then days after (without use of parking brake at all) damn thing drags again. Could it still be the cable? Or am I to look elsewhere? Thanks.

 

[USHOMEISHOU]

SLIDE PINS? I had this problem a couple of months ago, pull your calipers apart and clean/**** your slide pins. mine were rusted pretty bad cleaned 'em up with some steel wool, put on some brake **** on and it was good 2 go

 

[frosho]

If you haven't already, replace the rubber brake hoses. The parking brake cables can be adjusted so they'll hold the car pretty easily too BTW.

 

[jthod]

Caliper may be freezing. The '93's drug for about 400+ miles while on the toter on the way back from Dubuque, then a few miles on test drives. the caliper just didn't want to move. This was after we replaced ALL the e-brake cables.

$60 later, new caliper and pads from Autozone. 100% better.

 

[crazy_canadian]

You should check you Proportionning valve too. My brakes, caliper and hoses are less than one year old, but the two pistons in the valve are really stuck. I can't bleed the heel of the rear brakes at all.
If the car is empty, the brakes may be sticking after an hour or so, then I will park and 30mins later it'll be okay.
But if I have the trailer behind and the trailer is loaded, I think that little more weight on the valve actually make it move a very little, so when loaded I'm ok.

 

[itwonder]

In the rear, it's usually the rubber hoses. Change those first. If that does not fix it, go to the load compensating valve located above the left muffler. Disassemble, clean, and then adjust the actuation lever for maximum pressure on the valves. If that's not it, then proceed to check for a sticking caliper...those are often blamed, but it's usually one of the other problems.

 

[brandon_oma#692]

In the rear, it's usually the rubber hoses. Change those first. If that does not fix it, go to the load compensating valve located above the left muffler. Disassemble, clean, and then adjust the actuation lever for maximum pressure on the valves. If that's not it, then proceed to check for a sticking caliper...those are often blamed, but it's usually one of the other problems.

i am unsure if mine is adjusted properly does anyone have more details or pictures on how to do this? (how much preload on spring sitting empty, topped out????????)

 

[sho2see]

In the rear, it's usually the rubber hoses. Change those first. If that does not fix it, go to the load compensating valve located above the left muffler. Disassemble, clean, and then adjust the actuation lever for maximum pressure on the valves. If that's not it, then proceed to check for a sticking caliper...those are often blamed, but it's usually one of the other problems.

An old thread but wanted to know how to clean and adjust tha actuation lever for maximum pressure cuz my rears are sticking

Thanks

 

[Troywakeling]

X2 on the rubber hoses. Theyve gone bad on both SHOs ive had. They get old and swell up on the inside so the brake fluid cant pass.

 

[sho2see]

I have the earl's lines so i dont think its a collapsed hose

 

[sdpatt]

It is certainly worth checking the caliper slider pins to ensure that the boots have not torn and allowed moisture to rust them solidly in place.

 

[Rubix]

It is certainly worth checking the caliper slider pins to ensure that the boots have not torn and allowed moisture to rust them solidly in place.

Agreed, pull the wheel off and it will be easy to tell. This has happened on my '93, it's been sitting for a few months. I'm going to be fixing them this weekend (hopefully) so I can drive the car to Charlotte next weekend for the TSHOC meet

 

[sho2see]

checked the slider pins they checked out good

 

[Lupo]

checked the slider pins they checked out good

Use a screwdriver or something to see if you can release the e-brake spring even more after you release the pedal. The cable may not be releasing it all the way on one side, or both.

 

[shomanwi]

You should take off the brake hose from the rear calipers and have someone press the brake to see if there is good flow. I have seen a lot for cars with bad rear brake hoses.

 

[sho2see]

Use a screwdriver or something to see if you can release the e-brake spring even more after you release the pedal. The cable may not be releasing it all the way on one side, or both.

i think this is the cause that it is the cable...is been raining for days here so when it dries up will check up on it. I need to do it by sunday because im returning to baltimore.

 

[sperold]

I had a problem like this with the drivers side only rear wheel dragging and the rim getting hot. It turned out to be the rear hose. I think it was being pinched by a rusty steel component.

 

[Shoman594]

I had a problem like this with the drivers side only rear wheel dragging and the rim getting hot. It turned out to be the rear hose. I think it was being pinched by a rusty steel component.

Agreed, this actually happens alot up north to the gen 1 cars.

 

[jbserra]

I've had both situations. I've had a frozen slider, and I've had the parking cable/spring not disengaging.

 

[haydenkayne]

i had gen 2 cars that both drivers side slides froze. i am in the northeast. funny to others with it bieng the driver side.