Rear Brake Drag

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SolidState

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Hey guys,

My rear passanger side brake has finally bit the dust, and has started to scour the rotor. Comes as no surprise, as I knew they had to be tended to.

Here is the thing...the opposite side is fine, and the one side of the brake is fine as well. I can now hear (due to the grinding) that the pads are not fully disengaging.

Could this simply be that it needs the sliders greased? or is the caliper seized.

Thanks
 

AutoSHO

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Mine did that, one of the sliders had rusted in place. Solidly. I had to find a used unit because I broke mine trying to remove it. Chances are the boot ripped and it allowed moisture into the slider pin. Your caliper might be seized, but chances are its a slider pin.
 

SolidState

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well, it releases eventually, just takes its time...

are there an adjustments that need to be made to the rear brakes that differ from the fronts? I know that you have to rotate the piston with a special tool....but is there a set amount you should screw them back in?
 

SHOZ123

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You can get a rebuilt semi-loaded caliper for $29 from AutoZone. No pins but the boots and E-brake spring are included.

<small>[ March 20, 2003, 01:27 AM: Message edited by: SHOZ123 ]</small>
 

Emerald94

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Teg, now that you know about the slider pins problem, have them checked or lubricated once a year. I think the main cause of this is all the crud/crap the front wheels send towards the back of the car. The poor rear wheels have no chance and end up swallowing it all. :(
My mechanic says it's a common problem on the first generation Luminas (and all its clones).
 

89 black SHO mtx

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ok heres the 411 on brakes if you have a slider pin that is sticking the outside pad will be thinner than the inside if it is seized(not moving at all) the indside pad will be worn out because the caliper is not moving only the piston. now if the caliper piston is sticking the inside pad will wear out so how do you tell pull the caliper off and see if the slide pins are free(will slide in and out easily). now if the piston moves back and the pins are free you have a brake hose problem. to check this reinstall the caliper apply the brakes and release them now turn the right rear if it is locked up open the bleeder screw. if this frees the wheel then replace the hose. its tah simple boink
 

SolidState

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I need help, guys. I took it apart today, and found the one slider to be a bit slow. After I go the rotor and old pads off, I tried to use this ****** little cube tool that I got to rotate the piston in, but it is useless. I can move the piston out, but it won't go in. Sound like a bad caliper?

This is ******* me off....looks like I will have to take it somewhere....

EDIT: could the fact that I didn't open the bleeder valve have caused the piston to hang up and not rotate back in?

<small>[ March 21, 2003, 12:08 PM: Message edited by: SolidState ]</small>
 

rangerj

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SolidState,

Listen to SHOZ123. Open the bleeder. Before trying to open the bleeder wire brush the threads to clean away any rust.

Then apply some sort of penetrating oil, such as PB Blaster. Use a six point socket when trying to open the bleeder. This should minimize the possibility of breaking a bleeder.

One of the better tools for turning in the rear caliper piston is the K-D tool sold at NAPA and most auto parts stores, including Canadian Tire.

In the U.S. the tool is about $15. That is about $2,578,923.03 Canadian, if I calculated the exchange rate right!!! :D Cold Molsons for everyone. beer beer beer
rangerj thumbs_u
 

89 black SHO mtx

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i bought one of those square blocks way back when used it once and put it in the trash. i use a caliper tool from MAC tools but if you do get a good tool and have trouble with it going back (with the bleeder screw oppen it is probably the caliper). it should go back with out having to open the bleeder screw. everytime you release your brake pedal(if you don't have a bad line) some of the fluid goes back to the master clyinder.
 

jasonty

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Agreed. You shouldn't have to open the bleeder screw in order to push the piston back in, but taking the cap off of the master cylinder reservoir sure makes things easier! It allows all of that pressure that you're pushing in to release.
 

Bizzy

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jasonty:
Agreed. You shouldn't have to open the bleeder screw in order to push the piston back in, but taking the cap off of the master cylinder reservoir sure makes things easier! It allows all of that pressure that you're pushing in to release.
Ditto that. If the piston doesn't rotate back then something else is amiss. Could be the piston is siezed or it could be that the fluid is being obstructed in some way trapping it behind the piston. It could be the rubber brake lines. I wouldn't open the cap on reservior, it's not necessary to do if your system is functioning properly.
 

SHOZ123

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Another reason to open the bleeder valve when pushing in a piston whether front ot rear is to avoid pushing the old fluid back into the brake system. Usually the fluid at the caliper is the worst. You should bleed the old fluid out once a year anyway.

<small>[ March 23, 2003, 09:46 AM: Message edited by: SHOZ123 ]</small>
 

Xs SHO 1

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perfect timing, i did a rear brake job on my sho today and the left rear piston was stubborn. i did open the bleeder valve and it didn't help much. then on my rear right caliper, the boots was all torn up and it came off, looks like i need new calipers soon. both pistons were very hard to turn and it even broke the rental piston tool kit from autozone. i just had to make an xtra trip and i was not happy, made the job longer than i wanted it to....

<small>[ March 23, 2003, 05:05 PM: Message edited by: xssho1 ]</small>
 

SHOZ123

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If you use an impact wrench set to low torque and one of those tools you will zip them pistons in so fast it puts a smile on your face......
 

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