Read my codes, need some guidance.

[eacyde]

I read my codes and and a few of them I need help to figure out if it is something that needs immediate attention or not.

The codes in question are 214, 542, 167, 225

KOEO
117 - Engine coolant temp sensor below min voltage. The car was not quite up to temp and it is cold outside
214 - Cylinder Identification circuit fail - Not sure what to do about this one
452 - VSS Fault. Nothing new. I need to replace it
542 - Fuel pump secondary circuit fault - Not sure what to do about this one

KOER
116 - No worries here
167 - Throttle position fault - I may not have gone WOT
225 - Knock sensor fault - Need help
521 - Power steering pressure switch fault - Maybe I didn't turn the wheel enough.

I have also been noticing poor accelleration with greater than 1/2 throttle.
It feels like a parachute deployed. If I let up on the pedal, the power comes back. Could this be a symptom of the secondary fuel pump circuit?

Any help is greatly appreciated.

 

[eacyde]

Anybody?

 

[projectSHO89]

Start with a new cam sensor, then practice your initial setup and your timing of the KOER tests.

 

[eacyde]

Read codes again and this is what I came up with

KOEO
542 - Fuel pump secondary circuit fault - Not sure what to do about this one

KOER
225 - Knock sensor fault - Need help
521 - Power steering pressure switch fault - Maybe I didn't turn the wheel enough.
536 - Brake On/Off open or shorted.

I think I'm going to do the KOER again.


I'm still having the 1/2 throttle issue as described in my first post. It is especially bad when the car is cold. Once it warms up, I can get 3/4 throttle before it bogs down, but I have to apply the pedal slowly. I cant just mash it to the floor.

Do I need to replace the fuel pump? I have no idea when or if it has ever been done.


EDIT:
Just did KOER 3 more times and still got 536 and 225

What is the fix for those 2?

 

[Ishodu]

The 542 will show up any time the car stalls with out the car being turned off. Ignore the 542. How old are the plugs and wires? And are the plug wells full of oil? This is a common issue with the symptoms you describe.
The knock sensor code is likely not an issue unless your hearing the car knocking etc. I got the code a few times for no real reason. The brake code is likely operator error when running the test.

 

[rubydist]

the symptoms in your first post are very typical of a bad tps. I would replace that first of all.

the 225 is the pcm complaining that it did not hear the knock sensor during the koer test, when it advanced timing to the point of expecting knock. as Ishodu mentioned above, for stock applications you can ignore this, as Ford tunes their engines to avoid knock like the plague.

the 521 and 536 are typically due to operator error during the koer test - you didn't turn the wheel enough or at the right time, and you didn't step on the brake at the right time during the test.

 

[eacyde]

The plug wires are somewhat new. They are Taylor. I will have to pull them and check for oil in the wells.

As for the TPS, I swapped it with a known good one and no change in performance.

I think my best bet is to start with the plugs and wires.

Thanks for the tips

 

[ctubutis]

I wouldn't be spending too much time chasing the ignition when it's consistently complaining about fuel problems.

The order in which codes appear is important as is from which test they appeared. There are three such places, and the diagnostic procedures are oftentimes different:

KOEO
CM
KOER

I went through something like this once and it was a combination of a fried CCRM and a short in the O2 harness near the air conditioner compressor.

A Ford factory Powertrain Control/Emissions Diagnosis manual will help you greatly, check eBay, FAXON, etc.

 

[rubydist]

I wouldn't be spending too much time chasing the ignition when it's consistently complaining about fuel problems.

The order in which codes appear is important as is from which test they appeared. There are three such places, and the diagnostic procedures are oftentimes different:

KOEO
CM
KOER

???
I apparently missed the "consistently complaining about fuel problems" that you see. The only one I see is the secondary circuit failure, which is meaningless in Gen2 cars because it gets set any time the engine stalls.

While it is true that the codes come out in the order you listed, within those groups they will always list from lowest number to highest number, which does not indicate any priority in addressing them.

koer codes do indicate a current problem during the test, while koeo codes may be reporting a current problem or a stored problem. that is why it is important to reset the codes after addressing a stored code issue.

 

[ctubutis]

???
I apparently missed the "consistently complaining about fuel problems" that you see.

In Post 1 and the next day in Post 4 he pulls the 542 error (yes, the book confirms this is a fuel pump secondary circuit problem) and he tells us of problems running the engine at greater than half throttle, this problem can be caused by not enough fuel.

The only one I see is the secondary circuit failure, which is meaningless in Gen2 cars because it gets set any time the engine stalls.

Not trying to be a **** or anything, but that kind of logic is like... a smoke alarm in your house makes noise when you burn something on the stove, therefore, you can ignore any noise it makes anytime? I don't get it, especially when the OP hasn't mentioned the engine stalling anywhere. A smoke alarm will make noise for other reasons besides food burning on the stove.

Perhaps in your experience the stalling/542 combo is true, I've never encountered that nor have I seen the Ford (or any credible) books telling us to ignore that error, so, to me, it's therefore not ignorable, especially when the OP is complaining of poor higher-RPM performance and hasn't mentioned it stalling.

While it is true that the codes come out in the order you listed, within those groups they will always list from lowest number to highest number, which does not indicate any priority in addressing them.

My training and experience has been the exact opposite...

In general, a problem causing a lower-numbered error can also be responsible for a higher-number error also being reported.

For example, look at the table of 3-digit codes... 122 - 125 are TPS problems, a problem with the TPS can be manifested several different ways including an error 167, insufficient pedal position change.

157-159 are MAF sensor problems which can cause a 187 injector pulsewidth error.

116-118 are ECT problems, and can make the computer think the engine is cold (and therefore provide a rich fuel/air mixture) when it's really not.

etc. etc. etc.

Kinda like... you have a cavity in your tooth (call it a 123)... your ear aches (a 234)... your head aches (a 456)... the cavity can cause all those problems, fix that and the others will go away.

Perhaps you are using an aftermarket code reader that sorts the results for you, I don't have a reader and count blinkenlights, instead.

But it's not always the case things will be reported that way; here is a KOER test of a 1990 6-banger in an F150 if you want to watch it in action, a 538 appears before a 536.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J6XE423m9hQ


Add to that, Ford teaches their mechanics to begin diagnosing with the first error code received, they've been saying this for years:

koer codes do indicate a current problem during the test, while koeo codes may be reporting a current problem or a stored problem. that is why it is important to reset the codes after addressing a stored code issue.

When counting the blinkenlights, a properly-functioning EEC-IV computer will ALWAYS list the KOEO codes, a 6-second delay, a single flash, another 6-second delay, then the CM codes. I have no idea how aftermarket code readers behave but I've watched kids in parts stores try and use them, it's laughable sometimes.

Both KOEO and KOER detect problems found at that moment in time only. The KOEO test does some basic integrity checks and verifies all sensors are reporting within their allowed ranges. The KOER test does some active (live, with engine running) testing to see if the sensors are reporting the expected results when, for example, the engine speeds are changed.

The computer remembers what it has encountered in the past 80 (sometimes 40) driving cycles and stores that stuff in Continuous Memory (CM).

Ford usually tells us to re-run the KOEO and KOER tests after making a change, any problems encountered at that moment in time will be reported by those two tests. They'll sometimes say to clear the CM codes if a problem is fixed by, say, fixing a short in wiring. The only time I remember them telling us to clear everything is when certain emissions components are changed and the KAM should be erased.

Point being, the CM codes are wholly and discretely separate from the KOEO codes.



~~


Now, for this guy's problem, the primary things reported by the computer seem to be it's expecting to hear engine knock at certain times but not hearing it, a cylinder identification problem, and a fuel delivery problem. I'm inclined to fix the fuel delivery issue before looking at the other stuff only because I had a 500-series error last summer that apparently also caused some other things, so that's what I'm gonna talk about here.

At some point, maybe I'll look up the other two problems (hence my request for separate KOEO and CM codes) but, for the fuel-delivery thing, assuming the wiring & vacuum hoses & whatnot are unmolested, my guess is that he needs a new CCRM.

But we'd first want to prove that, so....




Let's look at 542 in the book... diagnostics seem to be split up between applications having a CCRM (the X tests) and those without (the J tests).

We have two places to begin with this application, depending on if the error was received in KOEO or CM....

If KOEO, then we begin at X80 and end at X87:

If the 542 is in CM, then we begin at X105:

Both of those involve different aspects of the fuel pump/CCRM circuitry and, if the problem isn't yet found, then we go look into the O2 sensors and then the computer itself, etc.



~~



If this were my car, I would fix the 542 error and see if that makes the knock sensor & cylinder ID errors go away and go down those paths if they persist but this is based on an experience I had last summer with a 1993 3.0L that had lots more problems than this all at the same time, and that experience may not be pertinent here but it's still how I feel right now.

Besides, to reduce my work, I'm asking the OP to differentiate between KOEO and CM.

I also would guess the power steering and BOO errors were caused by operator error (not performing the tests properly) and would ignore them for the time being.



You can go down the path of ignoring what the computer is telling you but I don't recommend it, you're most likely going to waste a lot of time and spend a lot of money replacing parts that don't need replacing.



If anybody can show us some Ford documentation saying the 225 & 542 are ignorable, I'd like to see it....

My sources:

Ford Powertrain Control/Emissions Diagnosis 1993 Service Manual, FPS-12106-93, Copyright 1992 by FoMoCo
Ford engine/Emissions Diagnosis 1986 Shop Manual, FPS-365-126-326HL, Copyright 1985 by FoMoCo

 

[eacyde]

I had stalling issues before I replaced the VSS. It would stall almost every time I would pull up to a light.

I have disconnected the battery to do some work on the car. I will run the KOEO and KOER tests again tomorrow. I think the 542 may be in the CM.

Are the diagnostic routines included in the ford service manual? I didn't think to look in it.

 

[Ishodu]

ctubutis there are hundreds of years of experience combined of working on these cars around this forum. It comes down to what is better generic repair procedures or experience from people who have been there done that.
If you own one of these cars please go out clear your codes then, make the engine stall check your codes then tell me after wards if you want to start trouble shooting your fuel system.

 

[ctubutis]

I had stalling issues before I replaced the VSS. It would stall almost every time I would pull up to a light.

So, did you just recently replace this? You said in your first post it needed attention, so I'm asking....

I have disconnected the battery to do some work on the car. I will run the KOEO and KOER tests again tomorrow. I think the 542 may be in the CM.

OK, cool.

Another question - does the Check Engine light come on?

Are the diagnostic routines included in the ford service manual?

No, they're in the Powertrain Diagnostics manual. I call it The Suitcase Book because it's about 6" thick, weighs close to 15 lbs., and came in a box about the size of a small suitcase.

ctubutis there are hundreds of years of experience combined of working on these cars around this forum. It comes down to what is better generic repair procedures or experience from people who have been there done that.

Yes, most of these types of forums have the same mix of people with all sorts of experience levels, I've owned/driven/diagnosed/worked on only Fords since the mid-70s and I've got my own experience & training & industry-expert, ex-FoMoCo-mechanic friends to help in figuring them out/keeping them running well.

And, I've also got some of the Ford factory shop manuals to help me. Yes, asking the computer what it thinks is going on, looking at the books, both of those things can only help you in figuring out what's wrong, it's not like they're one-stop-shopping, conclusive-and-that's-all-there-is resources.

But the books definitely help a LOT! They're written by the guys who designed these cars and programmed their computers so they're definitely credible and I have learned to never ignore them, but they can only go so far towards helping.

If you own one of these cars please go out clear your codes then, make the engine stall check your codes then tell me after wards if you want to start trouble shooting your fuel system.

Thanks, but all my cars are doing fine at the moment; I'm just trying to help others with what I have learned over the years....

 

[eacyde]

So, did you just recently replace this? You said in your first post it needed attention, so I'm asking....

Yes I replaced the VSS and Cam position sensor. I did not disconnect the battery to clear previous codes.

Another question - does the Check Engine light come on?

No, The CEL does not come on.

Thanks for your help, Hopefully I can get this car back to running tip top.

 

[eacyde]

here are my new results

KOEO
114 - Out of range voltage air change temperature sensor (ACT)
Then after the single blink I get 111 - all is good

It is a cold day and I did the test after driving to work for 15 mins on freeway.

KOER
114 - Out of range voltage air change temperature sensor (ACT)
225 - Knock sensor
536 - Brake on/off (BOO) switch not activated during self test

Cylinder balance test was a 9

The car was not idling smooth today. it would drop to 500ish rpm and up to 1200 and keep oscillating until it finally stalled before I did the self test.

I am still not getting 100% performance.
If I drive normal, all is well.
If I drive a little aggressive, I can't jump on the throttle or it "boggs". It basically feels like a parachute deploys usually around 4000RPM. If I shift gears, the "parachute" goes away until I get back to 4000RPM. I wish I could figure out why.

 

[kevinspann]

Does the car have a stock intake/airbox on it? And is the ACT/IAT (sensor that screws into the airbox) plugged in?

 

[ctubutis]

Yeah, Kevin's asking a good question....

KOEO
114 - Out of range voltage air change temperature sensor (ACT)
Then after the single blink I get 111 - all is good

It is a cold day and I did the test after driving to work for 15 mins on freeway.

It being cold out can be a problem for this test, it should be at least 10°C/50°F.

The 111 tells me you cleared the CM codes (disconnected the battery for >5 minutes) but that's fine, you've changed a lot at this point, anyhow.

KOER
114 - Out of range voltage air change temperature sensor (ACT)
225 - Knock sensor
536 - Brake on/off (BOO) switch not activated during self test

Did you goose it (floor the accelerator) when prompted to by the test? If not, that will cause you to fail that test.

Cylinder balance test was a 9

I'm assuming that's supposed to be a 90, which means it passed.

How many times did you perform that test? Looks like just once but a 90 would mean there is no need to continue.

What process/procedure/device are you using to pull your codes?

The car was not idling smooth today. it would drop to 500ish rpm and up to 1200 and keep oscillating until it finally stalled before I did the self test.

I am still not getting 100% performance.
If I drive normal, all is well.
If I drive a little aggressive, I can't jump on the throttle or it "boggs". It basically feels like a parachute deploys usually around 4000RPM. If I shift gears, the "parachute" goes away until I get back to 4000RPM. I wish I could figure out why.

Do you have a timing light and a fuel pressure gauge?

 

[rubydist]

fixing the 542 code is as simple as not allowing the engine to stall. this code in Gen2 cars is junk and can be ignored.

when the engine stalls, it sets 542.

 

[eacyde]

Does the car have a stock intake/airbox on it? And is the ACT/IAT (sensor that screws into the airbox) plugged in?

Stock Intake with K&N drop in filter
Yes it is installed and connected. It was -6*C this morning when I did the test.

ctubutis I think I forgot to goose it. I'll have to run the test again.

I use the blinky light method to get codes as outlined on SHOTimes (RIP)

I have a timing light but no fuel pressure gage? What pressure would I see, I have access to many gages. I assume I would need to check the fuel pressure at the schrader hiding in the snakes of the intake?

The idle issue was quite bad on my drive home. It stalled out twice. I disconnected the battery when I got home and reset the idle by turning on everything and let it run for a few minutes.

I'll do the self test tomorrow and report back.

Thanks for all the help so far.

 

[ctubutis]

This is a 1995 3.0L MTX listed in your sig, correct? The factory calibration for that engine doesn't have an EGR valve in 1993 and I'd assume the same in your 1995, correct? A (partially) sticking-open EGR valve can be responsible for rough idling & stalling but that can't be contributing to your problem if you don't have one.

This is a computer-controlled engine, and my general approach to these types of problems is to first make the computer happy... if there are still problems, we have a high probability of knowing what the problem(s) is(are) not, a happy computer generally eventually leads to a good-running engine, and it's easier to pass the Emissions test.

This necessarily involves checking & fixing the basics - the air filter is clean & unobstructed, the spark plugs & wires are in good shape and up to spec, fuel filters are clean & unobstructed, vacuum lines are in good shape and connected and aren't leaking, there aren't any burned-up or sometimes-shorting-out wires laying on the exhaust manifold or twisted up in the steering mechanism, there isn't liquid leaking onto any of the electrical connections, any electrical splices in the harness appear to be in good shape (no corroded, crimp-on butt connectors, for example), etc. etc. etc.

Might also put a voltmeter on the battery with the engine running and verify the voltage, a failed voltage regulator will lead to all sorts of problems (ask me how I know this ).

In your case, I'd also verify the fuel pressure at the rail - should be ~40 lbs both with the engine off as well as running. Yes, you would test this at the Schrader valve. An injector leak-down test isn't a bad thing to do, either.

A flow rate verification test can also be done but that's a messy PITA so I'd skip that for the time being and assume it's OK if the pressure is OK, can be done later if necessary.

Another thing I sometimes like to do is verify the ignition timing advance is under the computer's control, but I don't know how I'd do this on one of these DIS ignition systems. The general method (on older engines) is to disconnect the SPOUT plug, start the engine and look at the base timing, then reconnect the SPOUT and watch the timing, it should advance significantly as soon as it's plugged in. But the base timing on this engine has been set at the factory and isn't adjustable, and the computer will fall back to pre-calculated, default values and use the cam or crankcase (I forget which) position sensor if it's not getting the SPOUT signal, you can read all about it in the factory service manual... Section 03-07B for the ignition, and 03-04B for the fuel.

It would also light the CEL which makes me ask... does your CEL light have a working bulb? The light comes on with the key in RUN and shuts off after a few seconds once the engine is started?

Regardless of that, it would still show up in the CM errors and likely the other ones, too. Assuming your lamp is working, we can assume the timing is advancing because the computer isn't complaining about that.



The air temperature thingie error - ACT or IAT or whatever - can conceivably be explained because of your local outdoor temperatures. I'd be inclined to swap it with a known-good spare if available, or at least a different one, just to see how the computer reacts. If the outdoor temperature is the cause of the error, the error will persist. I generally don't like to spend money and throw parts at the problem without first verifying the part needs to be replaced, but if you have spares (I see two parts cars in your sig) I'd be inclined to swap 'em and see what happens, swap 'em back if the computer doesn't say anything different and re-run the test when it's warmer out but keep that error in mind.

I picked up someplace that the ACT/IAT inputs are used only at engine start-up but I can't verify that so take it FWIW.



The knock-sensor error, yeah, you need to properly do the KOER test as the computer is expecting you to goose the throttle at a specific time. As was stated previously, the book confirms the only time that error number will be generated is when the computer doesn't hear a knock in the KOER test. The book sometimes lies, but, I'll assume it's telling the truth until proven otherwise.



The erratic idle... have you tried to adjust any idle speed screws at any time, or tried to stuff pieces of wood into the linkage or anything? (I hope not.)

Even though the computer isn't throwing any IAC errors, I'd probably want to disassemble, investigate & clean the IAC motor; there are two procedures shown in the factory shop manual for this but they're valid only for one of the two different types of motors.

If you start the engine and let it idle (assuming it stays running) what happens when you unplug it? The engine should choke and die.



With the possible exception of the ignition timing perhaps not being advanced, I don't see any of the above as the cause for the high-RPM parachute you're feeling. Quite honestly, the first thing to come to mind is the "secondaries" not opening properly... can you hear them opening when the RPM gets over 3,000 RPM?

You could have carbon build-up making that assembly stick closed, the vacuum motor might be faulty or not hooked up, the linkage could be binding, etc.

This is the job of something called the Intake Manifold Runner Control (IMRC) and some people permanently wire the secondaries open when there are problems there, hopefully that's not the case on your engine.

You might hook that canister up to a hand-held vacuum pump and watch it as you apply vacuum, see if the arm moves or not.