Read my codes, need some guidance.

[eacyde]

WOW! That is a lot to take in. I will answer in point form

One thing to note, the car sat in a storage yard for 4 years before I got it

Answers
- Car is indeed a 1995 MTX basically unmolested.
- Air filter is clean
- Plugs & Wires are a ??? I know they were replaced with taylor wires, but that was before the car sat for 4 years.
- Fuel filter is new, I just replaced it.
- There are no fluid leaks
- CEL works. That is the source of my code reading. It comes on at start-up then goes away
- ACT/IAT is plugged in and installed correctly. I have only got this code recently while running the self test in the cold weather. I do have a known good spare I could swap in and see if it changes.
- I have not adjusted anything under the hood. I am not sure that can be done.
- Secondaries function properly. I have had a friend help me verify this and I can hear them open during acceleration.

To Do List
- IAC, I will give it a go and unplug it and report back
- I'll get my hands on the correct range gage and measure fuel pressure running and not
- I'll measure the voltage and report back. Battery is new

Thanks for everything

 

[eacyde]

Here are my self test results from today.

It stalled a few times on the way home again today.

KOEO
114

CM
542

KOER
536
521

CBT
9

I seem to have trouble with the goose test. Here is what I do, correct me if I am wrong
Start KOER
Wait for single blink
turn wheel 1/2 turn both ways
hit the brake
rev engine over 2000 RPM. I put pedal to the floor
End

 

[eacyde]

Here is a video of the wierd idle. the video cuts off. The RPM continued to drop and the car stalled.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=07sZf8BqaLI

 

[rubydist]

the iac is bad. even if its new, its not doing its job. I have had brand new ones do that out of the box.

 

[eacyde]

Voltage is 14.9 running
Replaced ACT/IAT with a known good one
Unplugged IAC and car died
Unplugged vac line going to IAC and plugged it and car died.

I will run self test tomorrow after I drive to work. It is too cold right now to do it.

 

[rubydist]

ok, now we are making a little progress. was the engine warm or cold when you did the above?

with the engine warm, you should be able to unplug the iac and the engine should (barely) idle at about 500 rpm. if it does not, that suggests that the stop on the throttle plate has shifted. if the throttle plate is too far closed at idle, the iac will struggle badly to control the idle speed.

if you haven't already, check carefully for vacuum leaks. it may be the throttle stop had gotten adjusted closed to make up for a vacuum leak on the intake somewhere.

 

[eacyde]

The car was warmed up for the self test. The voltage and IAC were done after the car sat for a few hours. It was not fully at temp. When I unplugged the idle air, the car sputtered for a bit then died.

 

[ctubutis]

OK, your engine behaves as I would expect when you disconnect the IAC. The book says it should die and my own (actually, my brother's, it's his car) also dies. Barely running is acceptable in my mind, too.

But the important parts are, it runs/idles (better) when the device is connected, and the computer isn't complaining about it.



Except for the intake air temp sensor (KOEO 514), the computer seems pretty happy. We don't care about the power steering or brake sensing (at least not yet, it'd be cool if you could make these go away, though) and the CBT of 9 is good.

I am not sure how the IAT can affect the idle speed nor high-RPM speed but my sense would be the water temperature would have a higher priority in the computer's mind. My general feelings are that a failure of that device wouldn't produce the parachute effect you're experiencing but I can't back that up with anything credible, it's just a feeling I have.

AFAIK you're goosing the pedal at the correct time, this would be after a single blink ~20 seconds (in my experience) into the test. I just connect the gray STI connector to a good ground (the flat piece of springy metal that electrically connects the hood), not necessarily the one located in the test plug, start the engine, wait for the single blink (I think this comes after the raising & lowering of the idle speed), then step on the brake, turn the wheel halfway, release the brake, then floor the gas. At least I think that's how I've done it but it's been almost a year, maybe I've forgotten. You definitely need to do it before the real-fast blinking (fast code output).

Here is what the book says about it, you're interested in GOOSE ENGINE NOW:

Voltage seems a bit high but acceptable in my mind.

This leaves us with the 542.

Other guys here say to ignore it because they say it will be logged anytime the engine stalls and that error can be thrown on demand, but I don't think that's right nor do I think it's advisable to ignore it and here's why...

Look at the very last item in the list of possible causes of that error (the X105 stuff in Ford's own documentation):

***********************************
Engine stall due to excessive load.
***********************************

Pulling up to a stop light isn't excessive load, that's normal load.



I strongly suspect the engine is stalling from a lack of fuel, the parachute effect is from the lack of fuel, and the computer is logging that error to tell us of a fuel pump circuit problem.

I went through a very similar problem last summer, and the problem was the CCRM - Constant Control Relay Module, it's attached to the radiator support kinda between the center and driver's side:

And looks like so (this is a 1989 variant):

Also, go look at the list of possible causes of that error showing up in KOEO, the X80 stuff:

It's all basically a power problem to the fuel pump (I don't think the computer would know how to detect a fuel pressure problem, just if it's getting the right amount of power at the right times) all under the heading of CCRM.

I would hope the fix for you is something so simple.




So, yeah, measure your fuel pressure at the rail and report back. Locate your CCRM and give me the number on it, should be similar to:

E9DF-12B577-AA
F1DF-12B577-A

Some sort of 12B577 number, post that here....

 

[rubydist]

my bad - I missed the 114 code in your last reported code readings.

I have NEVER seen a SHO motor work right with that code present. lots of varying symptoms, but whatever they were, they went away when the 114 code got resolved.

fixing that code is still your first priority.

 

[eacyde]

My CCRM number is F3DF-12B577-AA with a big D on it. I checked my 93 as well and it is a different number E9DF-F12B577-AB with a big M on it.

 

[ctubutis]

OK, thanks for the number.

But rubydist is right, fixing the 114 first is the best way to go. If he's got experience saying the engines don't run right when that device malfunctions, that's a pretty good reason in my mind. To add to that, I haven't run across any descriptions of that thing in the book - what it does, how the computer reacts, etc., so....

You swapped that out with one from a parts car yesterday, didn't ya? If so, re-run your codes and see what comes up.

What is the build date of your car? This will be shown in the top-left corner of the Certification Label (sticker on the driver's side front door).

 

[ctubutis]

One other request - give me your VIN? Post it here or PM if you like, thanks.

 

[eacyde]

Build date is 01/95
I have to wait till the weather warms up before I can run the self test. The only times I have got the 114 is when I did the test in cold weather.

 

[ctubutis]

Actually, if you swapped the thing out, please don't wait for the weather to change because that would mean you changed two things at the same time and, if the computer reacts differently, we don't know which of those two are responsible.

If you didn't swap it out, well, nevermind.

Also, I forgot... this is the device that's supposed to be run when it's 10° or higher, I forgot about that....

 

[eacyde]

Here are my results from this morning self test.
Car was driven for 20 mins before
Outside temp is -12*C at time of test

ACT/IAT replaced with a know good one

KOEO
114 - Out of range voltage air change temperature sensor (ACT)

CM
542 - Fuel pump (FP) circuit failure.
The other day I was driving and the car had a momentary split second blip where the CEL barely flashed and the engine felt like it was about to die.

113 - High voltage air change temperature sensor (ACT)
Probably from when I swapped it out while the car was running

KOER
114
411 - Engine speed during self test too low. My error
225 - Knock Sensor
536 - Brake on/off (BOO) switch not activated during self test.

Just so I am clear, the ACT/IAC is the sensor on the side of the airbox correct?

 

[rubydist]

so -12C is about 10F right?

act / iat is in fact the sensor on the side of the airbox.

they are supposed to read down to well below zero F, so I would start looking for wiring or connector issues with the iat circuit.

 

[ctubutis]

Wow, that's kind of a ballsy thing to do, swap out a sensor with the engine running.
(They've got some neat icons here, I wish they allowed me to adjust text size.)



OK, we've got it documented now that changing the IAT had no effect, the "proper" thing to do would be to swap the old one back into place to minimize the changes that have been made to help figure out what change (or behavior) causes what code.

I would then go clear the codes, the computer doesn't date-time-stamp them, only reports them, and we don't know from what behavior/symptoms that code was generated... could have resulted from your recent split-second failure, could also have been from previously stalling.

Just so I am clear, the ACT/IAC is the sensor on the side of the airbox correct?

Yeah, it looks something like this:





It's basically just a little heater, a pretty good description of it is here (forgot about this fordfuelinjection.com (now oldfuleinjection.com due to Ford's lawyers) site):

http://www.oldfuelinjection.com/index.php?p=29







I'm gonna take your VIN information to my local Ford dealer and so some CCRM research, I have one I can send to ya to try out but I first wanna see if it might work....

 

[eacyde]

Yes, -12*C is ~10.4*F

I ran the test after lunch for $hits and giggles. Here are my results.
Outside temp 5*C (41*F)
KOEO
111 - HOORAY!!! No more 114.

CM
113 - High voltage air change temperature sensor (ACT)
542 - Fuel pump (FP) circuit failure

KOER
225 - Knock sensor
536 - Brake on/off (BOO) switch not activated during self test.

It would be safe to say that 114 was due to cold ambient conditions.

When I did the goose test, the engine struggled to get the RPM's up, probably due to the 542 code.

Keep me posted on the CCRM. I have to spare units both from 93's one ATX & MTX.

 

[ctubutis]

It would be safe to say that 114 was due to cold ambient conditions.

Yes, I agree.

The self-tests are designed to operate under a certain set of controlled conditions, and the computer expects self-test results to be within certain ranges.

One of those conditions is the ambient temperature.

And, didn't you say you notice this error only since it's gotten cold out?

(BTW I like to think it's almost Springtime down here in the Lower 48, but you're in the Great White North and might have to wait another month or two?)

~~

You earlier had suggested the 113 in CM was a result of swapping the IAT with the engine running (eeegad, what's the matter with you, boy?! ) and the book says to look for a short or open in the harness (look at the DA90 stuff) so it seems you're right.

~~

Your IAT... Here is an official description from the 1995 Taurus/Sable EVTM (Electrical & Vacuum Troubleshooting Manual), kinda sounds like that fordfuelinjection stuff offhand but I haven't checked to verify it.

This is just for the halibut, since I found it:

~~


Your CCRM stuff....

This is a schematic from my 1993 Powertrain Diagnostics Manual, I don't expect this part of this book to pertain to your 1995 (you have a different CCRM) but it'll give you a general idea.

Most important thing to note is two fuel pump relays; a hi-speed and a low-speed:

OK, the below is from the 1995 EVTM, it gives a more functional view:

The Pink/Black wire (Circuit 787) is the regulated power to the fuel pump, but it also Tees off at Splice 152 and provides a signal to the computer's Fuel Pump Monitor input (Pin 19).

Look at the Circuit 97 Tan/Light Green wire at Splice 130, it leads to a spade connector in the EEC diagnostic connector (Connector 198) under the hood by the passenger-side shock tower. That wire can be jumpered with another wire in that connector to force the fuel pump to stay running when the key is on but the engine isn't running, it looks like it would provide hi-speed power but I'd need to research it some more to verify, don't start jumpering things there based only on this statement because I don't know that it would actually work if you have one or more failed components in your CCRM and, besides, I don't want to feel obligated to buy your car a new computer.

More of your CCRM stuff - power supplies to other devices, and the connector pinout:

I will explain some more CCRM stuff tomorrow....

 

[eacyde]

Did some work today. Discovered my brake switch had a broken wire so I fixed that.
I swapped back in the original ACT/IAC. (While the engine was off AND the battery was disconnected )

I pulled the front 3 spark plug wires and found a bunch of oil. Do i have to remove the intake to get at the back 3?
The wires are Taylor and They don't really seal well on the valve cover. The previous owner must have known this and attempted to seal the edges with silicone. It didn't work very well. I did my best to get the oil out sans tampons since there are none available at the time.

Ran the self test again
KOEO
114. It was cold outside. Where I live we have 2 seasons. Cold & not so cold. with occasional hot spells

CM
111 :sun:

KOER
116 - Out of range Engine coolant temperature sensor (ECT) I guess the car cooled off a bit more than I expected. Its cold out today.
411 - Engine speed during self test too low. It really struggled to get to 3000RPM
225 - Knock sensor

The 542 didn't rear its ugly head this time.