Rattling new Konis, should this happen?

[Mike Stitzer]

My new Konis seem to rattle a little in the rear. So I jacked up the rear of my car and let the suspension drop down the whole way. I then yanked on the strut/spring to check for movement. THe left rear one I can move, and rattle around. I could not do this on any other wheel.

The fronts, even while jacked up and the suspension dropped all the way are tight. Should there be side play in the rear struts with them topped out like this? I'm taking it back to the shop this afternoon but I'd like to get as much info beforehand. I found out that the shop did NOT replace the strut mount, so maybe that's it.
The fronts make absolutely no noise while going over bumps, but the rears seem to rattle on certain bumps and corners. Doesn't seem right to me.

I forgot to add, the Konis are paired with Eibach springs all around. If I yank on the spring on that same wheel I can move it as well.
Mike

<small>[ September 16, 2002, 10:21 AM: Message edited by: Mike Stitzer ]</small>

 

[ThrillSHO]

Mike,

It's kind of hard to explain, but does the Koni strut stick out of the top of the stock strut tube at all? If so, that's probably where it's rattling. I have found that there are at least two different rear stock struts. The "right" ones are the proper length so when you cut them off and bolt the Koni in, the knurled ring at the top of the Koni is wedged into the top of the stock tube (like the front). The "wrong" ones are an inch or so short. If you bolt the Koni into it there is nothing to capture the knurled ring at the top of the Koni and it will rattle because the top of the tube is a larger diameter the the Koni. One fix I've seen is to weld another section of tube, of the proper diameter, to the stock strut before bolting in the Koni. The only other option is to find the "right" tube. I don't think it's a good idea to leave it secured only at the bottom.

Unfortunately, finding the "right" tube is difficult. I posted the FOMOCO part number at one time. The part number is helpful only for scavanging since the part is no longer available from Ford. All rear replacement struts are now the short ones. I believe the SHOShop has resorted to the weld method due to the lack of availability of the longer struts.

 

[Mike Stitzer]

ThrillSHO,
THat is exactly my senario. THe top of the Konis is about 3/4 of an inch above the top of the cut stock strut body. The mechanic followed Koni's instructions to a T and this is what happened. Is it normal for the front Konis to have a different top than the rears? THe rears have a ****** at the top of the insert and the fronts don't. The fronts don't seem to have that larger diameter ring like the rears. THe fronts are tight, the rears not.

The mechanic is going to call Koni's tech line and see what the fix is. Sounds like the welding might have to be done. Does this mess up the strut, from the heat of welding that is? How about warranty, will it void it.

This ****** me off about Ford, they use so many different parts on the same car.

Mike

 

[ThrillSHO]

I'm not sure what you are referring to regarding the difference in the top of the struts and a ******. As I recall the front and rear Konis are practically the same - just different lengths.

Welding on the stock tube won't void your Koni warrantee - as long as you take the Koni out first. Any welding should be done in a "stitch" method to avoid deforming the tube. Weld about an inch - let it cool - weld another inch - let it cool, ect.

Another possibility is to call the SHOShop. Tom or Vadim may be willing to sell you a pair of rear strut tubes already welded. I did a car a couple of years ago that had one long and one short strut. Vadim sold me a long housing for $25 so I didn't have to weld either one. Or I guess you could scrounge the boneyards with your tape measure.

 

[Mike Stitzer]

It's getting complicated. The shop owner called me today after talking with a Koni rep on the phone. THe plan is for me to bring in the car and they first have to re check to see if Koni sent the right struts. Then they have to make sure that the Koni is bottomed out in the stock housing. If they' are, they then have to check to see if the housings are indeed the too short ones. Koni wants to make sure they are the stock housings, but if Ford made two different length housings then who knows how to track down the right one other than to measure.

Mike