radiator hose balooning...?

[JustInSideThG8s]

just finished up a 6 week clutch job...
now after getting it back together i've run into a whole lot of problems...

when i ran it for a minute the radiator hose seemed really hot by the tstat but cold by the radiator... i figure it was ok since i had just added water and it needed to cycle through once the tstat opened up... but instead when the tstat lets go the hose builds alot of pressure... and after the car is off and cooled it sucks the hose flat...
i noticed it had done this when i bought the car 2 months ago but thought it was just the hose but i took the hose off my 89 which had no problem like that and its now balooning to imlpoding...

i appreciate ur help as always...

about to go replace starter/ignition relay cause i kinda snapped it...

 

[Eric VerValin]

Not sure on the hose... sounds like a sticky thermostat or something to me.

But those relays!!!! I hate those.. don't get them from Autozone.. They go out every 6 months in my truck, and the AZ's snap with almost no force it seems. I broke 3 one day, and the last time just about made me kick my truck. Then I remembered it weighs 5500 lbs, and is steel, so I changed my mind. But yeah, I tightend it a little, wires still wiggle, little more... still wiggle, little more.. still wiggle, little more, snap... Not sure who makes a more solid one, but I wish I knew!

 

[hawkeye18]

sounds like a combination failed shut thermostat and air in the system. Fluid doesn't compress, but air does... and when the WP is pushing coolant up against the rapidly heating air at the t-stat, something has to give way, and that's the hose. When you turn the engine off, the air cools down, and since it can't suck up the 5 gallons of coolant or whatever, it sucks in the hose instead. Any time you drain the coolant you'll get air in the system, that's a given. Usually at the highest point, which is... the upper radiator hose. Replace the t-stat, and if it doesn't have a jiggle valve in it (most AAP/AZ t-stats don't), make sure you drill a 1/16" hole in the ring and orient it so it's at the top of the hose. That will let the air get past the t-stat when the coolant is still cold. It will also let some coolant through, yes, but not enough to keep the engine from heating up, and besides, you want that little bit of flow just in case the t-stat fails closed again...

 

[SHOsFAST]

I'm going with the Thernmostat it happend in my focus and my jeep... good luck

 

[JustInSideThG8s]

I broke 3 one day, and the last time just about made me kick my truck. Then I remembered it weighs 5500 lbs, and is steel, so I changed my mind. But yeah, I tightend it a little, wires still wiggle, little more... still wiggle, little more.. still wiggle, little more, snap... Not sure who makes a more solid one, but I wish I knew!

same here! but i broke one yesterday and broke another one this morning... i hope i can just swap it out cause if not thats another $15 down the drain...



and as for the t stat its only about 6 months old... i had replaced the one in my 89 and snagged it for this 90 so i know its good... and the t stat i took out of there was broken on both sides... so i figured when i swapped it it would be fixed... i guess i'm just gonna make sure it has as little air as possible this time...

 

[SHOZ123]

If you are talking about the stud wiggling in the relay body it will never get to the point it won't. And it doesn't need to be perfectly stationary as it is a two part contact. The relay when pulled in will short a bar against the inside part of the stud. As long as the cable is not wiggling on the stud you are OK.