Rack replacement, anybody help clarify part number issues?

[Bizzy]

I'm going to be replacing my non-vaps rack in my '91 when my clutch work is done. So far after my searching efforts I'm coming up with 2 part numbers and I want to verify which is the correct one. Especially because one is a good bit cheaper than the other.

At all the websites I've visited (Advance, Rockauto, etc) they list the rack number at Cardone 22-228

Here on the forum I've seen Scott and a few others mention Cardone 22-214 which $100 cheaper than the other one.

Can anyone please verify that 22-214 is indeed the correct non-vaps rack for my car? I'll be keeping my fingers crossed in the mean time, I'd much rather pay $72 versus the $176 for the other one.

 

[Mr Anonymous]

Beth, the only difference with the 22-214 is that it doesn't include the SHO-specific extra travel restrictors on the ends of the shafts where the inner tie rods connect (actually just little plastic washers basically). Those are there to prevent rubbing. They can be swapped from your old rack, but you'd have to remove the inner tie rod boot, and possibly the tie rod itself from the new rack to put them on (some are full around, and others are split), so you'd want to invest in a couple of hose clamps and some loctite if you really felt it necessary to keep them.

Other than that, it's the same as the SHO-specific rack.

 

[Bizzy]

Thanks Chris. I was hoping for good news.

 

[rangerj]

Bizzy,

I'll second what Mr. A had to say about the rack. In fact I'll cite you chapter and verse!

From my trusty, dusty (er, greasy) Helm Official Ford Service Manual.

"Section 13-46 Steering Gear, Integral Power Rack-and-Pinion"
(Non-VAP)
"Vehicle Application"
"Taurus/Sable except Taurus LX and Sable with 3.8L."

"Note: The power steering gear used on the Taurus SHO utilizes travel restrictors mounted inboard of the ball joint housings. The restrictors limit wheel travel to prevent the tires from hitting the wheel housing."

So, you can get the regular Taurus, non-VAP, rack and pinion and decide if you want the travel restrictors from your old rack.

To get at the travel restrictors you would have to remove the inner tie rods. To do that, you remove the boot, punch out the "roll-pin or "coil pin", wrench off the inner tie rod, and install the travel restrictor inside the inner tie-rod end where it threads onto the rack. Torque the inner tie-rod end to specification and install the roll-pin (or coil-pin). Finnish the job by installing the boot. don't forget the breather tube that goes between the two boots.

I know it sounds like a pain, but the restrictors are necessary IMHO.
If you need any more information we're here for you buddy. rangerj

 

[rangerj]

Bizzy,

I'll second what Mr. A had to say about the rack. In fact I'll cite you chapter and verse!

From my trusty, dusty (er, greasy) Helm Official Ford Service Manual.

"Section 13-46 Steering Gear, Integral Power Rack-and-Pinion"
(Non-VAP)
"Vehicle Application"
"Taurus/Sable except Taurus LX and Sable with 3.8L."

"Note: The power steering gear used on the Taurus SHO utilizes travel restrictors mounted inboard of the ball joint housings. The restrictors limit wheel travel to prevent the tires from hitting the wheel housing."

So, you can get the regular Taurus, non-VAP, rack and pinion and decide if you want the travel restrictors from your old rack.

To get at the travel restrictors you would have to remove the inner tie rods. To do that, you remove the boot, punch out the "roll-pin or "coil pin", wrench off the inner tie rod, and install the travel restrictor inside the inner tie-rod end where it threads onto the rack. Torque the inner tie-rod end to specification and install the roll-pin (or coil-pin). Finish the job by installing the boot. Don't forget the breather tube that goes between the two boots.

I know it sounds like a pain, but the restrictors are necessary IMHO.
If you need any more information we're here for you buddy. rangerj

 

[Bizzy]

Thanks for the additional info and for the write up Jack. I haven't found my helms yet.....I can't believe I actually stuck it in a box! Some things should never be packed away. I'll be picking up my rack tomorrow if all goes well and my clutch/rack/brake upgrade & strut mounts will be in the works very soon. Can't wait to get on the road again.

 

[sdpatt]

I wish I had known this before I swapped the rack in my car. I suppose that it is due to the 35mm offset of the 7.5" wide wheels on my car, but I have only minor rubbing on the rear side of the plastic inner fender liner when the wheels are turned full lock. I rarely turn the steering wheel to full lock in practice because I am aware of the spike in power steering fluid pressure that it creates.

 

[Bizzy]

Yep yep, they say that when turning the wheels all the way to lock to not let it stay there longer than 30 seconds or else damage can occur. I could see where it could happen sooner even. I never turn it that far either, but still I think I'll be taking the stops off my rack and putting them on the new one.

 

[Bizzy]

So, are these the stops that make a rack $100 more expensive? I don't see anything else that would come off the rack in those areas.

I pulled the bellows off two spare racks that I have here, 2 of the 4 were squashed but these two are in good shape. These also slip right off also just FYI. Some may not be the same I guess.

 

[projectSHO89]

The SHO-specific rack is more expensive because there is little volume compared to the number of remanned racks for the SLO.

There's a lot of extra cost in maintianing a specialty version of a part that doesn't sell very many units.

Steve

 

[Bizzy]

Yeah, but if the things in the pic above are the only difference I don't understand what makes that so special.

 

[SHO Type U]

Nice Rack .

 

[rangerj]

SHO TYPE U,

I suppose somebody had to say it . rangerj

Bizzy,

You know I have a shop manual buddy, so if you need specs let me know.

 

[Bizzy]

Thanks Jack, I may take you up on that if I can't find my shop manual which is in a box out in some box out in the garage..... I knew I shouldn't have packed it with the rest of the stuff.

Just as a note, I did get info that the stops in the pic above are indeed the only difference in the rack. I got my new rack yesterday and will be putting those on the new one.

Maybe I should start selling these things, seems they are big profit items. I can see it now on eBay....

**Plastic stops so you can use a SLO rack on an SHO! Low Reserve!**

Starting price........ $75.00