Quick! Springs or Swaybars?!!

[Jibberish18]

I have white 24 & 26 mm swaybars sitting in my closet. If I install them I'm gonna probably put polyurethane bushings front and back. I also have the chance to get the Eibach lowering springs which give you a 1 inch drop in the front and .5 inch drop in the rear. Probably cause of the sagging Taurus ass. But they also eliminate body roll and give a lower center of gravity.

So which do I go with? I'm confrused! My friend wants me to go with the springs mainly because they're cheaper and he knows they'll give a big impact. He thinks they'll work much better than the swaybars. And If I do go with the springs who am I gonna sell my swaybars too? FOr the price of the swaybars I can replace my radiator and all my gaskets. Help me out please!!!!!!!

 

[cRaZySHO.]

If you go with Eibachs, you better be ready to buy some new struts too. It will be a complete waste to put those in without a stiffer set of struts. You'll blow out those Monroe's pretty quick. If I were you, I would put in the sway bars, and save some money for some Tokico's. Those sway bars will make a big difference in handling.

 

[Jibberish18]

If you go with Eibachs, you better be ready to buy some new struts too. It will be a complete waste to put those in without a stiffer set of struts. You'll blow out those Monroe's pretty quick. If I were you, I would put in the sway bars, and save some money for some Tokico's. Those sway bars will make a big difference in handling.

Now are you saying this out of experience? These struts are pretty stiff. In fact they are MUCH stiffer than my stock struts ever wished to be. I think they'll take it. Plus they have a lifetime warranty. My question is which is more effective.

 

[Mike Kopstain]

Jibberish18:

If you go with Eibachs, you better be ready to buy some new struts too. It will be a complete waste to put those in without a stiffer set of struts. You'll blow out those Monroe's pretty quick. If I were you, I would put in the sway bars, and save some money for some Tokico's. Those sway bars will make a big difference in handling.

Now are you saying this out of experience? These struts are pretty stiff. In fact they are MUCH stiffer than my stock struts ever wished to be. I think they'll take it. Plus they have a lifetime warranty. My question is which is more effective.

But they aren't performance parts. Compared to a set of Tokicos or Koni's, your monroes are probably like Cadillac struts. I think someone I know very well told you to go with the sway bars. Go with the sway bars.

 

[Jibberish18]

So over at the TCCA I've been told I'm gonna need to drill new mounting holes because the struts gonna shift to compensate for the drop. What the **** is up with that? All this time I've been learning things how come I missed that little tidbit of info? If thats the case, say bye bye Eibachs. Even if they are $126..............Damn thats a good price. shrug I don't know!

 

[twr]

Eibach's shouldn't require drilling out the tack welds on the front strut tower plates. I think the sway bars will deliver what you are after. Reduces the body roll dramtically.

BTW - Are we talking about a Sable or a SHO - If a SHO, What year??

<small>[ December 17, 2002, 05:11 PM: Message edited by: twrsho ]</small>

 

[Toolman]

Go witht he swaybars. They, along with poly bushings, will make a bigger difference than the springs without appropriate struts. If you do ever go with the springs and struts later, you will want the swaybars anyway. Go with the swaybars.

 

[Jibberish18]

Eibach's shouldn't require drilling out the tack welds on the front strut tower plates. I think the sway bars will deliver what you are after. Reduces the body roll dramtically.

BTW - Are we talking about a Sable or a SHO - If a SHO, What year??

Its a 1990 Mercury Sable GS. So you mean the front shouldn't need modifications but the rear will? I don't understand the concept of this whole modification business. Like I told the guys on TCCA....It makes no sense to me. Isn't a spring just that? A spring. I mean I don't see why you'd need to drill new holes. But I'm a bit slow about understanding concepts until I get a visual somehow so excuse my asking constantly about something. Could someone explain this to me?

 

[Toolman]

There are plates on top of the strut mounts that limit how much you can adjust your alignment settings. Sometimes, when lowering the vehicle more than the manufacturer intended, those plates do no allow enough adjustment in their original positions, and the spot welds must be drilled out to allow movement of the plates. Eibachs usually do not lower the car enough for this to be needed, but every situation is unique.

 

[1fastsho]

Sure a spring is a spring(with the exception of progressive rate and linear rate springs being different)But the reason you need to drill the camber plates is becasue if you add eibachs it will lower the car 1" in front....guess what...the suspension goemetry is now different. there will be excessive(or more than there was before) negative camber so you have to drill out the tower plates to allow more adjustment for the alignment specs.

I had to drill them out for Eibachs on my car actually. but I hated teh EIbachs so that didn't last long anyway.

 

[mexican]

Jibberish18:

If you go with Eibachs, you better be ready to buy some new struts too. It will be a complete waste to put those in without a stiffer set of struts. You'll blow out those Monroe's pretty quick. If I were you, I would put in the sway bars, and save some money for some Tokico's. Those sway bars will make a big difference in handling.

Now are you saying this out of experience? These struts are pretty stiff. In fact they are MUCH stiffer than my stock struts ever wished to be. I think they'll take it. Plus they have a lifetime warranty. My question is which is more effective.

Others have put Eibachs on Monroes abd KYB and have had the struts blowout after a couple months. The swaybars you have will turn your GS into a handling machine. Very little body roll.

 

[Toolman]

1fastsho:
But the reason you need to drill the camber plates is becasue if you add eibachs it will lower the car 1" in front....guess what...the suspension goemetry is now different.

See Jibberish, every situation is unique. Eibachs on my car lowered it 0. My car was the exact same hieght. Even the 1" should not require drilling of the plates in ALL situations. Anyway, since you are doing the swaybars first like we suggested , then there is nothing to worry about for now.

 

[Jibberish18]

See Jibberish, every situation is unique. Eibachs on my car lowered it 0. My car was the exact same hieght. Even the 1" should not require drilling of the plates in ALL situations. Anyway, since you are doing the swaybars first like we suggested , then there is nothing to worry about for now.

LOL. Yeah I'm sticking with the swaybars. Hopefully the ones I have are actually 24 and 26 mm. I still haven't checked. Screw it. If I lower it I go coilovers. Still kinda ****** I passed up $125 for springs though. Everyone on the TCCA was soo sure that you needed to drill out the welds on the camber plate. Then someone told me it may only be for Gen3's. I emailed NOOK and I'm now waiting for a response. This is still tricky business lol. You guys probably think I'm a dork by now huh? One more question. Are their camber kits available and how much? Thanks for the replies you guys. BTW I'm gonna probably end up using TPR bushing in the rear and Polyurethane up front. Any objections?

 

[Toolman]

Usaully, drilling out the plates allows for all the adjustment you need in the front. THe best bet for the rear is to get adjustable control arms. BTW, I have a nice set for sale

 

[fatak]

I just put a 29mm sway bar on the rear and can't imagine that I could stiffen it any more. There is NO body roll.

 

[speedy91]

fatak:
I just put a 29mm sway bar on the rear and can't imagine that I could stiffen it any more. There is NO body roll.

How do you like the 29mm?
I will have to get together with you and Toolman sometime.
Eric

 

[Mike Kopstain]

fatak:
I just put a 29mm sway bar on the rear and can't imagine that I could stiffen it any more. There is NO body roll.

It gets better. Don't stop there. Eventually you will be able to take a turn tand the whole car will just slide. Drifts are fun. thumbs_u

 

[94FordMan]

This may sound dumb, but I am a total noob to suspension mods. Why can't he do both the swaybars, and the springs? Also I have a lot of negative camber on the front of my car already, and my dad doesn't want me driving it until I get the camber fixed and get new tires. If I were to get the camber adjusted now, and go with different springs later, would I have to get it adjusted again?

 

[Jibberish18]

If I were to get the camber adjusted now, and go with different springs later, would I have to get it adjusted again?

Yes but if you get a Camber kit it should take a matter of minutes from what I've been told. As for this whole welding situation....screw that! It ain't kosher! (I like saying that because it bothers Mikey & SHOZ123....J/K guys ) Only thing is the Camber kits are pricey as ****. Damned if you do and damned if you don't. I've decided I'm not gonna toy with the ride height. I like it nice and high like it is right now. I figure I'll get rid of some body roll first and then get CoilOvers later if I'm really serious. BTW it absolutely SUCKS that I can't get fatter tires for the Sable. Stupid SideSkirt!!!!