Questions on Replacing CPS

[Marccus]

'89 SHO; MTX; 425,000 miles

I don't know if I'll make it to the weekend to replace the CPS. I hardly make it to and from work. I'm going along fine and the tack goes crazy, the car bucks, the wheels grap erratically ... if I goose the throttle and keep the rpm high it comes back to life. But in low gear and stop and go traffic it's almost impossible to drive. I drive early to work and leave late at night so I'm cruising all the way with no stops.

I've used that screw to keep the throttle bottle open to a higher idle rpm, seems to work. I would think the PCM would correct the rpm through the IAB, but I'm still getting a code for the latter and I've replaced it three times.

I'm getting a Code 14 and codes about the O2 sensors (although I just replaced them) and erratic ignition etc.

I'm thinking that a lot of these codes will go away when the CPS is replaced.



But here is my post:


I'm going to replace my CPS this weekend (long weekend for me) and have read through everything, but I just a few questions.

I need to make sure I have everything since I only have one car, one person (me) and I would have to walk a long way to an auto parts store / Home Depot if I forgot something!

So I apologize beforehand if these are obvious or perhaps stupid questions

(1) What size piece of wood do I need to use the starter method of removing the crank bolt?

(2) Can I use the box end of a box combination wrench to remove the crank bolt instead of the ratchet?

I’d rather not possibly ruin my ratchet and pick up a cheap combination wrench. Problem is it is almost impossible to find a 6-pt box end. They are all 12-pt.

(3) A friend mentioned to me that he thought the starter bump method of removing the crank bolt would not be good for the starter.

He used a chain strap wrench from Harbor Tools that costs about $10 (cheap Chinese import - I’d rather not and try to not buy (if there are other alternatives) cheap Chinese imports that are ruining this country, but I may have no choice in this situation).

I bought a Lisle strap wrench but it has a rubber strap.

Will the rubber strap hold the crank pulley when I try to remove the crank bolt?

The crank pulley on his Lexus is tightened to 175 ft-lbf. Since the SHO crank bolt is only tightened to 112 to 127 ft-lbf, perhaps the strap wrench will hold.

(4) Do I use Loctite (red) on the crank bolt or any other bolts (red or blue)?

(5) I am going to replace the front crank seal. When it was replaced by a mechanic many moons ago, it started leaking just a month or two after it was replaced, albeit it was only a slow leak.

Can you use some sort of RTV in the vicinity of the crank seal to prevent leakage?

(5) I am going to replace the water pump also. Do I use thread SEALANT (white Teflon non-hardening Loctite) or thread LOCKER (red or blue?) for the water pump bolts?



Lastly,

Is it a “crank pulley”, “crank gear”, “harmonic dampener”, ????

When I was looking at pullers, the names varied all over the place. The Lisle tool I purchased specifically called it a Harmonic Dampener Puller. But it looks exactly like the puller used on the SHOPhoenix Projects illustrated instructions for a “Gen II SHO MTX 60k Mile Service”.

Thanks mucho.

 

[yzstud]

what makes you think that the codes will go away once you replace the cps?
o2 codes could be caused by numerous things for example, dirty maf, bad wiring, dirty egr etc

1. A small 2x4 should be adequate with the bump procedure
2 .you can try using a wrench if you want, it should work
3. thats his opinion, and as far as I am concerned, it is a good method to use
4. I wouldn't recommend using loctite but thats up to you, I just torque the bolt to the specified torque and re-check after the first couple of trips and periodically after that
5. once again, it's up to you some do and some don't
6. thread lock nor teflon tape is required on the water pump bolts

lastly, crank pulley or harmonic dampner its the same
but crank gear? no
the crank gear is the gear behind the lower timing belt cover that slides on the crank and where the timing belt sits on

hope this helps

 

[itwonder]

1. Whatever it takes. Short 2x4 or two usually does it.
2. IIRC, a wrench will not fit, the bolt is too recessed. Why are you second guessing what is proven to work? Use a ratchet that has a free lifetime replacement guarantee, like Craftsman, and a six point socket. I have yet to break anything.
3. Well, only you can decide whether to follow the advice this SHO community who has done the procedure hundreds of times, or your clueless friend who knows nothing about SHO's. Your rubber strap wrench is useless for the crank bolt, but may be handy if you need to reposition a cam pulley...but you probably won't need to.
4. No
5. Outer perimeter where it contacts the block is optional, thin coating.
6. None of that stuff

For a crankshaft pulley puller this is all you need:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=37824
or
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=37714

 

[munkee]

Harmonic dampener. I just picked up a puller from sears for 18 bucks. I'm pretty sure it was labeled steering wheel/dampener puller but I'm not 100%. You should make sure the bolts that come with it thread into the holes on the dampener before you tear everything apart. I'd recommend picking up a breaker bar for breaking the crank bolt loose, rather than a ratchet or a wrench. A sturdy 19mm impact socket isn't a bad idea either. Check your **** shops. I've never had to use the starter bump method, but unless the bolt is really stuck and/or you do it wrong, it probably won't hurt your starter. The method I use is an old belt and some leverage.

[/IMG] Just be sure the tensioner pulley is tight. I've seen everything from a bolt that comes out easily with a ratchet to a 20 minute session with an impact driver and a lot of leverage...a pulley that wiggles off by hand, to... you get the idea. Also make sure you have something to remove damaged screws with, just in case. The cps screws can be easy to strip out.

For the crank seal, it shouldn't leak so soon after being installed. Maybe the mechanic removed or installed it incorrectly. It can be easy to score the housing the seal goes into if you don't do it right or use the right tools. If the housing isn't scored, maybe the seal just got torn in the process. If a scored housing is the cause you might be able to fix it with rtv or jb weld or something. Maybe someone more knowledgable on that could chime in if you don't find anything in a search.

Man I need to write my replies faster.

 

[thecrew2999]

i always got away with a breaker bar and no wood just resting the handle to the subframe.

i would never use anything but a 6 point in there as when you round off a crank bolt that tight you will spend the next few hours wishing it never happened...

when i rounded one the engine wasent in the car anymore and what happened was i slipped and rounded it off..
i ended up trying to weld with no luck cuz the weld wasent happy with the socket so for a final soultion i beat the living crab out of a 18 mm till i was able to break it loose.

 

[AREA 91]

Quote "'89 SHO; MTX; 425,000 miles".











:woohoo:

 

[Marccus]

what makes you think that the codes will go away once you replace the cps?
o2 codes could be caused by numerous things for example, dirty maf, bad wiring, dirty egr etc

1. A small 2x4 should be adequate with the bump procedure
2 .you can try using a wrench if you want, it should work
3. thats his opinion, and as far as I am concerned, it is a good method to use
4. I wouldn't recommend using loctite but thats up to you, I just torque the bolt to the specified torque and re-check after the first couple of trips and periodically after that
5. once again, it's up to you some do and some don't
6. thread lock nor teflon tape is required on the water pump bolts

lastly, crank pulley or harmonic dampner its the same
but crank gear? no
the crank gear is the gear behind the lower timing belt cover that slides on the crank and where the timing belt sits on

hope this helps

OK. You explained it very well.

Regarding codes, I've been struggling with a couple of them for awhile. I keep getting a code for a bad IAB solenoid for about a year. I've replaced it three times, I've replaced the connector, I've checked the wiring, and I've replaced the IRCM (or CCRM), I've made several posts to ask for more suggestions. So I'm giving up for now.

I am still getting a code for a bad TBP, even though I replaced that also. I periodically get code for erratic ignition.

I replaced the O2 sensors. I keep my engine as immaculate as I can - MAF, throttle body, throttle body plate, butterflies, intake plenum and x-over tubes are clean.

I don't have EGR on my SHO, as I didn't buy it in California, but Massachusetts, and it wasn't required on the SHO engine in that state in 1989.

I recently installed a new DIS also.

So I've tried to tackle all the codes from every angle and this is the first time they are not "going away" but I haven't attacked the CPS yet which is acting up for a while also.

So I figured why keep stalling working on codes I've tried diligently to rectify to the best of my capabilities and skills.

So I'll see what the codes read after I replace the CPS. Then I'll have to go to the wiring diagrams and start from there if things don't get better.

Thanks.:thankyou:

 

[Marccus]

i always got away with a breaker bar and no wood just resting the handle to the subframe.

i would never use anything but a 6 point in there ....

Good point, thanks.:thankyou:

.... so for a final soultion i beat the living crab out of a 18 mm till i was able to break it loose.

Hah! Sounds like a friend of mine when he gets really ****** and stuck, he either breaks out his torch or his pipe wrench. Once when I couldn't get a type of lug nut with a key lock off because the female key slot had been worn and the key would no longer work, I told him maybe I could use a Dremel tool. He laughed at me and grabbed his pipe wrench and went to work .... the torch was nearby.

 

[Marccus]

I'd recommend picking up a breaker bar for breaking the crank bolt loose, rather than a ratchet or a wrench. A sturdy 19mm impact socket isn't a bad idea either. Check your **** shops. I've never had to use the starter bump method, but unless the bolt is really stuck and/or you do it wrong, it probably won't hurt your starter. The method I use is an old belt and some leverage.

Just be sure the tensioner pulley is tight. I've seen everything from a bolt that comes out easily with a ratchet to a 20 minute session with an impact driver and a lot of leverage...a pulley that wiggles off by hand, to... you get the idea. Also make sure you have something to remove damaged screws with, just in case. The cps screws can be easy to strip out.

OK. It is clear from the picture what you've done. I'll give that a shot. thanks:thankyou:

For the crank seal, it shouldn't leak so soon after being installed. Maybe the mechanic removed or installed it incorrectly. It can be easy to score the housing the seal goes into if you don't do it right or use the right tools. If the housing isn't scored, maybe the seal just got torn in the process. If a scored housing is the cause you might be able to fix it with rtv or jb weld or something. Maybe someone more knowledgable on that could chime in if you don't find anything in a search.

Man I need to write my replies faster.

OK. Thanks again for the tips and for taking the time to write a thorough reply - without any wise cracks!
:thankyou:

 

[Marccus]

Quote "'89 SHO; MTX; 425,000 miles".

:woohoo:

Yeah, I guess I'm already much "beyond" Area 51.

 

[thecrew2999]

i agree 425,000 miles is something to be proud of... take a picture of the car and post it... would still love to make a calender with a high milage car on it SHO POWER BABY! haha

i would guess your maintence has been up to par