Questions on deglazing and piston ring grooves.

[jimtash]

Pulling apart a 3.2L motor I recently purchased and the bores are in excellent shape. Cross hatch is visible and no noticeable grooves at the tops. Only carbon which I cleaned with some solvent and a scuff pad. I'm going to re-ring it and since the bores look good I'm going to leave them alone and just clean and reassemble. What's the opinion on that?

Also how clean should the ring grooves be? I can get most of the carbon off the sides but can't get all of it off at the back. The oil grooves are easy because they're wider but the two compression grooves are giving me the most effort. I'm using a broken ring with solvent to do the job.

Also the oil control rings were stuck while the other two moved freely on both pistons that are out but other than that, no major issues. Tomorrow I tackle the other four bores.

 

[SHOtime2511]

How many miles are on the motor?

 

[Racer X]

If you're installing new rings, you'll need to lightly hone the bores to allow the new rings to break in properly.

On cleaning the ring grooves... soak in berrymans (they have the gallon size with the tray) and use a ring groove cleaner to remove the carbon deposits. Soak in oil afterwards to displace any remaining solvent.

 

[Phoenix]

If you're installing new rings, you'll need to lightly hone the bores to allow the new rings to break in properly.

On cleaning the ring grooves... soak in berrymans (they have the gallon size with the tray) and use a ring groove cleaner to remove the carbon deposits. Soak in oil afterwards to displace any remaining solvent.

This , but I used wd40 for final cleaner. I am told by a race shop thats the best way to remove crap in the cyl crosshatch.

 

[jimtash]

How many miles are on the motor?

I was told 40K but he bought the engine for a project and that's what he was told. It had a Napa brand timing belt on it so someone did change that out. Judging from the minimum wear on the rod bearings and the general good condition of everything taken apart so far, I'd say under 80K for sure. Lots of varnish in it though.

On cleaning the ring grooves... soak in berrymans (they have the gallon size with the tray) and use a ring groove cleaner to remove the carbon deposits. Soak in oil afterwards to displace any remaining solvent.

Ah forgot all about Berryman's. Worked excellent on the lower intake manifold in my V-8. Thanks.

This , but I used wd40 for final cleaner. I am told by a race shop thats the best way to remove crap in the cyl crosshatch.

That's what I've been using along with the scuff pad to clean the bores. They are in excellent shape and why the thought of just leaving them alone occurred. Read here a while back that cylinder roundness is more important to ring seal and seating than the cross hatching itself as long as the marks are still visible and no other damage could be seen. And that putting in new rings without deglazing/honing is actually the best thing for these engines if there is minimal wear.

 

[rubydist]

usually the factory rings are as good as the cylinder walls once you get them unstuck. did you break any removing them?

 

[jimtash]

usually the factory rings are as good as the cylinder walls once you get them unstuck. did you break any removing them?

Yup. The oil rings were stuck in there good.

Going to take a 240 grit flex hone to it like Hastings recommends and be done with it.