Question

[Dudster4]

Got these 2 shocks on each side of the motor, my step dad believe they are bad and causing my exhaust to keep rusting out at bends because the motor is moving. Is this right? What are they called?

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/593/081000191100.jpg/

 

[SHORANGERBIRD]

engine dampners....

 

[kevinspann]

They don't entirely prevent the engine from moving, just help dampen the movement. What is really bad, are your motor mounts.

 

[Dudster4]

That's what i thought but can't find that part anywhere online.

 

[rbruso]

There are actually three of these shocks: The two you pointed out and a third, shorter one attached to the front motor mount.

You can't find them because a lot of people just chuck the dampers. SHO Shop used to sell a solid set, and I've even seen people use lengths of threaded rod with sway bar endlink bushings.

The primary limit to motor movement is the mounts. Reinforced ones are available at shosource.
Front: http://shosource.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=61_5_30&products_id=38
Rear: http://shosource.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=255

 

[jayro]

www.shonutperformance.com or www.shosource.com

 

[Dudster4]

Alright here's my next question. On the guys website (http://www.shophoenixproject.com/mm/mm.htm) he shows how to replace the front mount but not the rear is it because the front mount is just prone to failure and the rear is stronger/less prone? Or is it just right there so he didn't bother to illustrate anything about it. I have a fair bit of mechanical knowledge but my only major motor work was on a small block chevy truck.

 

[rbruso]

The front mount is quite often the one that separates, as the engine tries to lift that mount. If you rev the motor you should see the front surge tank rise just a bit (unless your mount is trashed, in which case you'll see it rise a bunch).

The rear mount is mostly being compressed when the motor revs up, so it's not subject to the tearing that the front is. The rear mount can go bad, especially if it's completely oil soaked (I really need to get that swapped out soon).

The front mount requires more steps to get out. The rear mount just requires a floor jack and some good Tetris skills.

 

[Dudster4]

Alright that's what i figured was the rear was most being compressed and the front is being pulled on. Thanks for the info dudes! This car is definetly worth me fixing stuff $900 for a car that rides just as nice and is nearly as quick as my 01 Mustang GT that cost me 9x more!

 

[93rev2sev]

The dampers may be trashed as a result of the mount being trashed or vice versa. You'd be surprised how much better the car shifts and feels with low-milage, properly working dampers and good mounts.

I've had it both ways for years and while I don't mind a solid mount and no damper, I can definitely feel the difference and prefer a properly damped driveline; especially when I'm driving mildly to moderately.

Speaking of which...I better go tighten the bolts on mine - I've been meaning to do that for weeks.

 

[rbruso]

I'm running an original SHO Shop 3 piece solid set. I actually sheared the bottom bolt on the one by the belts because the rear mount is so sloppy. Tightened things up nicely when I replaced the bolt, but it'll be much better when I replace the mount.

 

[kevinspann]

I've got the two of the three SHO shop solid dampeners - I would think they'd be too solid

 

[93rev2sev]

Once I got under there I could see my rear mount was trashed. I replaced it. The front was fine.

 

[93rev2sev]

Solid dampers are garbage. Don't use them.

 

[Dudster4]

Alright here's an unrelated question. When trying to go into reverse it will occasionally grind or it won't go in reverse unless i let the clutch out some and it will go right in. What's the cause of this? I believe i read somewhere this is like $1000 dollar tranny repair or something.

 

[luigisho]

Not uncommon.Try moving the stick into another gear slot before reverse.

 

[digeronimo34]

Reverse trick . 1st 3rd reverse