Question on o2 testing

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DJ LYX

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I checked shotimes on how to test O2 sensors. I was wondering what a high impedence DC voltmeter is and where i can get one?

Also, shotimes says that you should use a torch to heat the sensor. I was gonna use my gas stove range instead. Think that will work?


thanx
 

SHOblime

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use a torch to heat the sensor? The voltmeter you need would just be a regular ol' multimeter, you only need to heat them up if you can't do the test on the car after it's been run a little bit (warmed up) this isn't that hard and if you are careful there is almost very little chance of getting severely burned. (just kidding the 02s are pretty easy to get to )
 

DJ LYX

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Ya see, my check engine light comes on only after about 1/2 hour of highway driving. I checked the codes and it said that the car runs both lean and rich. However, toward the beginning of summer the codes only displayed that the car was lean. I cleaned the MAF yet the CE still comes on. It also comes on and off sporadically. I wanted to test the O2 sensors outside of the car to make sure that indeed they were defective.

this is the link to where the testing procedure is on SHOTIMES.

http://www.shotimes.com/php-bin/modules.php?op=modload&name=News&file=article&mode=thread&order=0&thold=0&sid=87

Where do i get the dc voltmeter?
 

jaded93atx

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Shoblime must have an MTX... you will burn the heck out of your knucles hands annd wrists if try removing the rear O2 from an ATX after the engine has reached oper. temp and you try to pull the sensor while heated. Even when the motor is cool and with the "proper" tool the rear one is a PITA and requires patience. I was lucky and able to hook up a MAC scanner and to watch the data stream that showed that my O2s were not switching rich to lean (being lazy). Along with the codes it saved me from having to "bench test" them. Its your best bet if your able to get a hold of one. Other than that, I dont see why a gas stove wouldnt work as long as you can heat the sensor up to at least 350 degrees, (I think thats the right temp anyways).
 

DJ LYX

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<<I was lucky and able to hook up a MAC scanner >>

Whats a MAC scanner? I did a google search, alls that came up where scanners for apple PC's :-(

here were my codes:
172- HEGO sensor indicates system lean (RH).
173- HEGO sensor indicates system rich (RH).
176- HEGO sensor indicates system lean (LH).
177- HEGO sensor indicates system rich (LH).
543- Fuel pump secondary circuit failure.

Thats why i need to check the O2's instead of just swapping in new ones? Is there any way I could check the MAF for failure? Keep in mind, the CE only comes on sporadically after 1/2 of highway driving.
 

jaded93atx

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MAC= MAC tools, Snap On also makes them but either way they are big bucks...around $1,000.00. Usually only well equiped mechanics and garages have them for obvious reasons and if you dont know someone they usually charge 50-100 bucks to run the test. I dont know if anyone makes cheaper versions that show real time data streams for the occasional DIY job.
The only thing that I can offer is that unless you have a modified (not stock)Maf (which some of them screw things up and you may get those codes) then you would also have a code for MAF voltage lower than expected when it fails and contributes to those codes.
When mine were shot I occasionally had a bouncy idle when heated that sometimes caused the engine to stall out when coming to a stop or abrubtly letting off the pedal and I was only getting about 15-20 mpg along with 172/176/178 codes. I used the Bosch ones for 49.99 at AutoZone. You can get a multimeter at any auto parts store they come in a variety of quality ranges at corresponding prices.
Hope this Helps.
 

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