Question about alignment (Again...) Loooong :)

[wuzzzer]

Ok. After looking at www.shotimes.com I decided to email Ford Parts Network and order parts to adjust the rear suspension camber. This is the paragraph from their site (SHOtimes):

"In '89-'92, the Taurus had only toe adjustment on the rear. This was accomplished by an eccentric on the rear control arm. Camber adjustment was added by TSB 93-1-2, which released a camber kit for the rear suspension. This kit uses some hard PVC eccentrics that replace the inner bushings on all 4 rear control arms. These allow up to a 2 degree camber change and a 1" toe change per wheel.

The Ford part number is E7DZ-5K751-B. Specialty Products also makes the Taurus/Sable rear camber/toe eccentric kit, part # 87300. Cost is about $45. Sedans built after '92 already have this kit installed."

So, the email I received from FPN was this:
"Do you see what you need in the attached diagram ? Would this possibly be an aftermarket item ?"

This is a small part of the diagram:

So, I emailed FPN back and they said:
"I see this one for the 97 :

E6DZ-5K751-A adjusting cam $ 6.49 ea. 2 needed. "

So, I ordered 2 of the adjusting cams. I will be bringing them to a local alignment shop to have installed. I'm just wondering if anyone knows about the installation of them? How much can I expect to be charged, and did I order the right part? From the SHOtimes site, they describe the part as an 'eccentric bushing,' made of hard PVC, and this part is referred to as an 'adjusting cam' I believe and is made of metal.

Please, anyone (especially Kirk) who has experience with rear alignment on Gen III SHOs, let me know anything that you think would help.
Thanks in advance!!!

<small>[ April 15, 2002, 06:14 PM: Message edited by: wuzzzer ]</small>

 

[SHOCRUZR]

Camber, Rear

Part 1 Of 2
http://www.alldatadiy.com/alldata/AFI~V1268336~C34990~R0~OB0~P3R0H~N/0/56775861/62671442/62671477/81864436/34853741/34864218/34865428/58801095/58059774/74355835/74355836/74355839/7 8050169/78050170


Part 2 Of 2
http://www.alldatadiy.com/alldata/AFI~V1268336~C34990~R0~OB0~P3R0H~N/0/56775861/62671442/62671477/81864436/34853741/34864218/34865428/58801095/58059774/74355835/74355836/74355839/7 8050169/78050171


Excessive wear on the inboard edges of the rear tires may be caused by camber and rear toe settings that are not within specification. To correct this, reset rear camber and rear toe to specification. If camber cannot be set to specification, install an adjustable camber kit if not previously installed, using the following service procedure:

Inspect rear suspension for damage. Replace any damaged components before continuing.
Measure and record vehicle rear wheel alignment settings for LH camber, RH camber, LH toe and RH toe.
If vehicle is in specification for camber but out of specification for toe, reset toe to nominal specification of +0.06 degrees toe-in for each individual wheel.
Obtain Sedan Rear Camber Adjustment Kit E7DC-5K812-AA or equivalent.
Raise vehicle using frame hoist by supporting vehicle forward of rear suspension tension strut and bushing, allowing suspension to hang free in the rebound position.
Remove parking brake cable retaining bracket from crossmember center bracket.
Remove and discard bolts and nuts from inboard and lower rear suspension arms. Remove lower suspension arms from crossmember center bracket and allow them to hang free.
Part 1 Of 2
http://www.alldatadiy.com/alldata/AFI~V1268336~C34990~R0~OB0~P3R0H~N/0/56775861/62671442/62671477/81864436/34853741/34864218/34865428/58801095/58059774/74355835/74355836/74355839/7 8050169/78050172


Part 2 Of 2
http://www.alldatadiy.com/alldata/AFI~V1268336~C34990~R0~OB0~P3R0H~N/0/56775861/62671442/62671477/81864436/34853741/34864218/34865428/58801095/58059774/74355835/74355836/74355839/7 8050169/78050173


Using a 1/2-inch diameter tapered rotary file, elongate both front and rear suspension lower arm crossmember holes to the following dimensions:
If camber measurement from Step 2 was out-of-specification in the negative direction, elongate holes outboard (4 holes in line) 1 mm (0.39 in) for each 0.1 degree of negative camber change up to 7 mm (0.7 degree negative change).
If camber measurement from Step 2 was out-of-specification in the positive direction, elongate holes inboard 1 mm (0.39 in) for each 0.1 degree of positive camber up to 7 mm (0.7 degree positive change).
For lower suspension arm with toe adjusting cam: Install round washer on new bolt from rear side of center bracket. As bolt is being installed through center bracket and cam in lower suspension arm add tab washer so it is trapped between inner pivot bushing inner sleeve and inside surface of bracket pocket. Tab washer is not required between cam and inside surface of pocket. Crossmember pocket may need to be expanded to achieve assembly. Install another round washer. Install kit inner pivot cam bolt from front side of crossmember. As cam bolt is being installed, the two kit tab washers are to be installed on bolts so that one washer is trapped between each end of inner pivot bushing inner sleeve and inside surface of crossmember pocket.
Place kit cam washer and nut on bolt, position tab washers to be in contact with crossmember bracket and tighten nut to 54 - 74 Nm (40 - 55 ft. lbs.) .
Repeat Steps 5 through 9 for opposite side of vehicle.
Reinstall parking brake cable bracket.
Align rear wheels.
Copyright © 2002 ALLDATA LLC. Terms of Service

=================================
This is what I found to correct the rear camber. I'm not sure yet if this will make the alignment specs of a Roush spring-lowered car the same as the OEM alignment specs.

Rene Carlos Cruz
Warren, MI
98 SF "Isabel"

 

[srfdude]

SHOCRUZR:
Camber, Rear

Part 1 Of 2

Using a 1/2-inch diameter tapered rotary file, elongate both front and rear suspension lower arm crossmember holes to the following dimensions:
If camber measurement from Step 2 was out-of-specification in the negative direction, elongate holes outboard (4 holes in line) 1 mm (0.39 in) for each 0.1 degree of negative camber change up
SF "Isabel"

You'd be doing some serious reaming to file .39".....one mm equals .039", a little more reasonable.
Mike

 

[stephen newberg]

When I first read about this kit on getting the car I had a check run, and the kit had been installed at the factory as standard. Not sure about on other years, since I checked on for the '98s.

pax, smn

 

[boojew]

OK.. I'm completely out of my league when it comes to wheel alignment, but I just read this post at TCCA.. and I thought it might apply.

Quoted from Trace_leo

"Ok, here's the ****... I just had the springs installed on the car, and they work great.

I really don't recommend you trying this yourself at home, without a lift. It's a pain in the butt.

We used a wall mount spring compressor, (the same one a shop would use to change gas struts in your car) without this tool, life would SUCK and this job would be VERY difficult. We ground down the spot welds that hold the camber adjustment plate down to the top of the strut towers JUST IN CASE. (It was easier to grind the spotwelds from the underside with the wheels off the car.) There are 7 spot welds on each plate on my car. Maybe 4 on '96-'99 models. We removed the old springs and replaced them with the pretty blue Roush ones, and re-mounted the strut/spring assembly. We put the plates back in the original locations (we could see where they were, because the car was not painted underneath them.) Now for the alignment rack.... the passengers side camber was at a -1.9 A couple taps to the camber plate on top, and we were back into specs."

 

[Porkchop]

http://www.northstarmfg.com

click on products...alighnment....part type...rear camber/toe bushing

they make them for the sable...they should fit..

 

[RStalveyARFF]

boojew:
OK.. I'm completely out of my league when it comes to wheel alignment, but I just read this post at TCCA.. and I thought it might apply.

Quoted from Trace_leo

"Ok, here's the ****... I just had the springs installed on the car, and they work great.

I really don't recommend you trying this yourself at home, without a lift. It's a pain in the butt.

We used a wall mount spring compressor, (the same one a shop would use to change gas struts in your car) without this tool, life would SUCK and this job would be VERY difficult. We ground down the spot welds that hold the camber adjustment plate down to the top of the strut towers JUST IN CASE. (It was easier to grind the spotwelds from the underside with the wheels off the car.) There are 7 spot welds on each plate on my car. Maybe 4 on '96-'99 models. We removed the old springs and replaced them with the pretty blue Roush ones, and re-mounted the strut/spring assembly. We put the plates back in the original locations (we could see where they were, because the car was not painted underneath them.) Now for the alignment rack.... the passengers side camber was at a -1.9 A couple taps to the camber plate on top, and we were back into specs."

That's for front end alignment. Rear is achieved by moving cams on the control arms.