Q-Logic Kick Panels: anyone got a cheap price on them?

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DJ SHO

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I've shopped around a couple local shops and have come up with a price around $160 for the kick panels. Anyone know where to get them any cheaper?
 

PuckHead

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I have been interested in these items for awhile, but don't want to buy and install them, only to find that they either don't do what I wanted, or alternatively, they get in the way.

Any honest opinions of them?

Later!
boink
 

DJ SHO

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I've see them in a 5-speed Mustang and wondered how much they interfere with your left foot with the clutch and all. Anyone have them for their SHO and how's the imaging? Still contemplating this idea, but if the reviews of the SHO's kick panels arent that good, I'll have to try something else.
 

kaoticSHO

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I've used them before but not in the SHO. Descent build quality, but you are limited on where you can place them and not interfere with the e-brake, so sound will be a compromise.

That is the reason that I had mine custom made. They fit, no interference and I got to aim them to create a great soundstage.
 

yamahaSHO

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Too bad you did not ask this about 4-5 months ago, I could have gotten some brand new for $20. The guy had them on E-bay and nobody wanted them. He was forced to sell them for cheap. I almost picked them up. Now I wish I did, I would have given them to you for the same price... oh well.

How much does Crutchfield want them for? I thought they had them for less than $200.
 

Dave Ladely

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I have a set which I may be selling. I think I will be having a custom pair made. The left one does interfere with the emergency brake. They are not very good chambers for woofers or mid bass speakers. Its basically a cheap way not to have custom ones made, but the compromise is rather severe. I bought a pair of Dynaudio midranges, which have a sealed back, so the chamber problem was eliminated. I planned to put mid bass speakers in the door panels and use the Q Logics for the midrange and tweeter, but the door panels have proved to be very restrictive. So, I think I will be putting all three speakers in a custom kick panel box, which seems to be the way to go in reality.
yeah,its about 500 bucks or so, but the alternative is crap.
 

kaoticSHO

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Dave, I wish I had my vehicle here so I could get some pictures to show you of the door build-outs. Those Dyn mid-basses really thump in a well dampened door (V-blok or Dynamat and sealed enclosure.

<small>[ January 02, 2003, 02:30 PM: Message edited by: kaoticSHO ]</small>
 

luigisho

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Jay, I'd like to see the door speakers and how they're mounted if you can get some pics sometime.

I thought the Q-forms only have models listed for Taurii with the ebrake mounted at the center console due to e-brake pedal interference. If others have some custom made ones, I'd like to see the setup/design if you have pics. I just can't seem to get the soundstage the way I like it up front.

Then again maybe the GenII interior setup is different enough to fit larger things at the kick panels.

<small>[ January 02, 2003, 02:51 PM: Message edited by: luigisho ]</small>
 

Dave Ladely

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I had to use a heat gun to push in the Q Logic at the emergency brake,but that was not completely satisfactory. They are NOT designed for mid bass or bass speakers as they are rather thin ABS plastic with no backs, so the body of the Q logic will resonate and the backs will leak, tending to distort and cancel bass. There is a reason people use MDF for cabinets and for having enclosed cabinets. I believe that all three speakers, bass, midrange, and tweeters, should be close together as possible, as is done with home speakers. I realize the door panel can work pretty well, but I do believe the mid bass is directional enough that it should be aimed the same direction as the mids and highs.
I know this from my work in audio with Bob Carver (founder of Phase Linear, Carver Corp, and now Sunfire Audio) and Greg Mackie (founder of Audio Control and now Mackie Design). This means custom kick panel boxes as far as I can determine. Also, I plan to install a center set, eliminating the cigarette lighter and likely the lower din mount. I plan to move the AC control to the upper DIN mount and have the stereo head unit where the AC now is. I may even move the AC control to where the cigarette light area is. That would open up the entire DIN mount area for some serious center channel. Audio Control makes a unit which will provide a true center channel.
I am kind of a stickler for a home audio sound in a car. In fact, I wanted Bob Carver to help me build a super car amp in 1961, but in those days it was well nigh impossible, what with tubes and the state of electronics then. So, in 1966, I asked him to help me build a home super amp instead. It was later that high power car amps became possible. I know a guy who used home amps in his car, using a high power inverter. Sounded awful nice,but, again, front speakers were the Achilles heel there too. I don't like today's stupidity of overwhelming bass as an ego trip and an attempt to compensate for inadequate front speaker sounds.
 

kaoticSHO

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When I first got interested in car stereo I had Carver amps in my vehicle. WOW! that was a looooong time ago. hehe

I agree with you about overpowering bass. "One note wonders" or the ones that you can't tell what song is playing, due to a lack of discernible midrange.

I really enjoy products made by Audio Control. They write hilarious installation brochures.

What kind of amplification are you going to use? The Dyn's LOVE lots and lots of power. I have used a myriad of amps with my stereo obsession. The more memorable ones from the aforementioned Carver to old style Nakamichi (1983-84), Phoenix Gold MS series, Linear Power, Alpine 3545 (1989), Zapco and Brax. More recently Audison and JL Audio.

<small>[ January 03, 2003, 03:17 AM: Message edited by: kaoticSHO ]</small>
 

Dave Ladely

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Well, I got two Rockford Fosgate 750X amps for Christmas, so I guess I will use those. Kinda plan to use electronic crossover from bass to midrange, and probably the Dynaudio crossover from midrange to tweeter.
Just for your info, I lived with Bob Carver in the 1960s and persuaded him to help me build a super home amp rather than the 150 watt RMS max amps then available; I did not want evolution, I wanted revolution just to see what it would be like, so got parts to build the first 700 watt min RMS amp. in 1966 Weighed over 140 pounds on three chassis as it was of tubes at that time as powerful transistors were super expensive. Needless to say, it absolutely blew away the best available then and inspired Bob to start a company building the world's first superamps, the Phase Linear 700A in 1969, of transistors since transistor prices had come way down in 3 years, and the rest is history. Its kinda funny now, but the first amp I wanted him to help me build was a powerful car amp in 1961, but with the technology then, 12 volt tubes, it proved impossible, hence my going for the super home amp.
 

DJ SHO

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Dave Ladely
Its kinda funny now, but the first amp I wanted him to help me build was a powerful car amp in 1961, but with the technology then, 12 volt tubes, it proved impossible, hence my going for the super home amp.[/QB]
Technology is amazing, isn't it? I mean the same 700 watt home amplifier you wanted built 40 years ago can now be had in a case that's about 19"w x 3"h and 13"d and maybe weighs in at like 30 lbs. That's a big step from 140 lbs. And the same power on a car amp that's only like 8" x 12" x 2". Its crazy.
 

kaoticSHO

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Wow Dave! what a small world. Those Carver amps I had back then were powerhouses for their size and they didn't run as hot as the Nak PA series amps did.

Check out this site for a unique crossover design.

http://www.romanaudio.com/diaural.htm

Dale Fontenot can build you (crossover) one for your application. I heard it in a car and it made the soundstage seem like it was at least 3 feet out from the doors. Here is another link that discusses it further.

http://www.romanaudio.com/pr02.htm

Thanks for the info on Bob Carver.
 

Trojan Man

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If you're going with some separates that still sound good mounted off axis, just use the stock door locations for the mids. You can get pretty much any mid to fit in there with some modification and if you cross if low enough you shouldnt have any problems with your soundstage. I have my mids mounted in the doors and then my tweets on the dash (you probably saw that) and I have everything tuned to the drivers seat listening posistion. It really is balanced quite nicely, with a nice stage. The tweeters on the dash really help to bring the stage up.

I made kickpanels for my previous car and ran a 3 way CDT setup in it. It had unreal midbass but as far as the soundstage goes, it can't touch my current setup. Just stick with something that you know sounds good off axis and you'll be happy.
 

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