Pulling junkyard engine/tranny out tomorrow, need info tonight!

[Jr's Sho]

Okay guys, I have been looking for a local MTX tranny for a while and I finally found one for cheap. Tomorrow a friend and myself will tackle this job.
I have decided to pull the engine and tranny out the top rather than dropping the subframe because I have no way of supporting the engine from above other than the engine hoist and it would be easier to unbolt the tranny with eveything out of the car. It also seems like less work. For those that have done it, which do you recommend, in car or out of car?
Whatever way I go, I need tonight to make sure I have EVERYTHING I need to get the tranny out, this junkyard is about 30 miles from my house and I don't want to have to make a trip back.
With lifting it out the top, is this everything that will have to come off?
1)Exhaust-unbolt
2)CV axles
3)Motor mounts and tranny mount
4)Fuel lines and hoses-I'll cut them

If that's the main parts, are there any SPECIAL tools I need? I have a 21mm socket for the motor mounts nuts, and a set of sockets from 8mm-21mm. I also have your basic hammer, screwdrivers and stuff.
Seriously guys, I am nervous about this, I have never done this before. Please list as much helpful info as possible, like tools and tips. I have a chain to hook to the engine. Thanks!

 

[SHO--ripper]

You will need to remove the shift linkage, PS line, misc. grounds for the engine harness, the harness from the computer. Bring some needle nose/regular pliers just incase you run into some really small nuts/bolts. You will also need some WD-40 or PB blaster to loosen rusted nuts and bolts. You will need a 30mm deep socket for the hubnut. Hopefully this helps, and if it's a rod shifter see if you can get if for cheap, and don't forget the bracket that bolts to the body. :thumbs_u:

 

[billyshoe]

Out the top is less difficult on a 89. 90's have ABS and obstruct the driver side of the engine bay. 90's or 91's have airbags and wiring is another added obstruction. Wiring & lines should be disconnected rather than hacked. It would be better to remove the intake first to avoid related damage. I have pulled SHO motors out the top(with the hood on) before no problem but would never recommend doing this without transmission/radiator/AC removal first. It would'nt be to difficult to rig up a engine support adiquate for a boneyard operation allowing subframe removal.

 

[Chris Benvie]

OMG!!! An intellegent reply from Billyshoe!! What is this world coming to? Are pigs flying????

 

[Jr's Sho]

This is great, I left my 30mm socket in Pensacola. I hope Autozone has one, I hate to spend money on one.
Okay, so it seems like I have everything down pat. Thanks.

 

[Jr's Sho]

When removing the drivers side cv axle, do I still need to remove the hubnut if I pop the balljoint out? I need to know if I have to go to AZ tomorrow. I thought the clutch video never mentioned removing the hubnut. Thanks.

 

[sideSHO]

I am doing a clutch on my 91 and I never removed the hub nut on either side.The subframe bolts gave me a fit,even with no rust.I have yet to use any WD 40 or the like on any bolts(thanks power steering leak).The Y pipe bolts will need WD 40,just spray them first while you work on something else.
After dropping the subframe on mine I would say for your needs take it out from the top.

 

[qiksho]

You might be able to do it without taking the nuts off, However it will be easier to take them off. I have been in this area of the SHO's plenty and the drivers side c/v axle isn't the easiest to remove with that circlip holding it in the tranny. :burn_out:

 

[AutoSHO]

I disagree. There's no reason to pull the hub nuts off... Take a prybar and you should be able to pop the axles out of the transmission very easily. Breaking loose a nut torqued to 200+ Ft Ibs is gonna be a lot harder than popping the axle circlip out.

 

[SHO Type U]

I am doing a clutch on my 91 and I never removed the hub nut on either side.The subframe bolts gave me a fit,even with no rust.I have yet to use any WD 40 or the like on any bolts(thanks power steering leak).The Y pipe bolts will need WD 40,just spray them first while you work on something else.
After dropping the subframe on mine I would say for your needs take it out from the top.

PB Blaster will work better than WD40, PB Blaster is a penetrating fluid. :burn_out:

 

[masho95]

I disagree. There's no reason to pull the hub nuts off... Take a prybar and you should be able to pop the axles out of the transmission very easily. Breaking loose a nut torqued to 200+ Ft Ibs is gonna be a lot harder than popping the axle circlip out.

Agreed, just remove the tie rod end out of the knuckle, swaybar endlink, and balljoint from the knuckle. Then the spring and strut assembly is free to swing about as you need it and the axles will easily be out of your way. With a quick bump of a prybar behind the driver side axle it will come free. Should take less than 10 secs to get it out. Much better then wrestling with a 200 ft./lb. hub nut that is supposed to be replaced if you take it off anyways.

 

[revhardSHO]

Ive even been able to pull the axle out by just removing the lower ball joint and endlink; but I would go one step further and remove the tie rod ends if they are not completly rusted to the steering knuckle.
and dont be afraid to pry on the axle end! it will pop out.

 

[SHO--ripper]

I pull the axles and keep them when i part a car out. I don't think there is any other way to pull an axle besides removing the hub nut

 

[Jr's Sho]

Thanks guys, since I didn't get a reply until it was too late, I went ahead and borrowed the socket from Autozone.
We got there about 9:45 and had the engine and tranny on the ground at 11:30! How's that for time!
Things went great being this is the first time for us, we pulled both axles out since I had the hubnut socket, motor mount nuts, exhaust, and some wires that were in the way. I was real impressed, it wasn't as hard as I thought. If it was my car though we were pulling the engine/tranny out of, it would have been a different story. Gotta love u-pull-it yards. I ended up getting the MTX tranny with tranny mount, X2J computer, good front motor mount with torque strut, power steering pump, cam sensor, and a flywheel for $135 plus tax and core charges. Not bad! Thanks Shoforum for all the help!