PS hose R&R 95 MTX...?

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boat

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I did mine on the blue 94 while I was doing the gen 3 subframe swap. I did it before the subframe went in. Also replaced the rack with a non-vaps rack, so I put in a 92 hose from the pump to rack.

Now, I have to replace the P/s pump.

In the "how-to-section" (How to replace P/s Pump), Itwonder, recommends using a crow-foot 18mm wrench attached to a socket extension and a ratchet, and you should be able to remove the high pressure line from the back of the pump. Of course, you are probably going to have to remove some stuff from the passenger side strut tower to get the best possible clearance into that area. As far as the other end goes at the rack, not sure how accessible the rack side of that line is, might not be too bad.

Hope this helps. ;)

How does one go about replacing the PS hose on the pump side?

On a scale of 1 to 10 how much of a PITA is this?

:munch:
 

kevinspann

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It's about two feet long and you can put crow's foot wrenches on the end of it. Access...


Probably be better if you removed the hood.
 

platoribs

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It's about two feet long and you can put crow's foot wrenches on the end of it. Access...


Probably be better if you removed the hood.

Based on this comment, I assume your talknig about going in from the top?

Are there things one can remove in order to get to the pump? For example in order to get the new hose started in the pump.

Also remember this a Gen2 pump going to a Gen 3 ZF Rack, mounted on a gen3 SF. There's lots of room up high between the firewall and the back of the engine on a Gen2 MTX for access to the ZF rack fitting. Just having a tough time locating the @#^%$ pump in the engine compartment.

I'm going to try putting a compression fitting on the where the two cometogether, if that works it'll get me through a track day Monday. Then I can tackle it the right way with a new hybrid hose.

I have a Craftsman version of that FWD Serpentine Belt tool. Thanks for the tips.
Image 16281
So does the hose travel in front of the engine?? from left side to right side?
 
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zak

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I'm going to try putting a compression fitting on the where the two cometogether, if that works it'll get me through a track day Monday. Then I can tackle it the right way with a new hybrid hose.

Having had the fire department come out to help extinguish a power steering fluid fire on one of the competitors cars at an autox, I urge you not to do this. It is a high pressure hose, meaning a couple thousand PSI IIRC.

Take the two new hoses to your local hydraulic shop (e.g. Parker Hannifen). Have them adapt the Gen III rack end to the Gen II PS portion, such that the overall length stays the same as the Ben II. Or I think NESHO has a hose kit for this swap.
 

boat

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Oh, duh. I have one of those. I didn't realize it was called that. I always called it the "slim" tool. Awesome. :)
 

Racer X

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Having had the fire department come out to help extinguish a power steering fluid fire on one of the competitors cars at an autox, I urge you not to do this. It is a high pressure hose, meaning a couple thousand PSI IIRC.

Take the two new hoses to your local hydraulic shop (e.g. Parker Hannifen). Have them adapt the Gen III rack end to the Gen II PS portion, such that the overall length stays the same as the Ben II. Or I think NESHO has a hose kit for this swap.
This.
 

platoribs

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I'm begining to think this leak is on the low pressure side. Cause it comes from the rack down the firewall and around the engine on the drivers side, not over to where the pump resides.

D'oh! Low pressure side, ficksed!
 
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shotime1994

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Is your rack leaking? Or where the pressure hose goes on the rack. The pressure hose is simple to change. No need for serpentine Belt tool. Just an 18mm open end box wrench will do.
 

kevinspann

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I found that there was more access with no intake...

I've done it with the intake on before, which I recall being a pain. Then it still leaked. That car got scrapped :rofl:
 

platoribs

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It was the low line that goes from the rack to the heat exchanger. I put a compression fitting on it with a hose barb and tightened it up and... dry as a bone.

Not looking forward to a PS pump job, or A/C restoration, at that point I may consider pulling the engine, clean up the bay, 60K the engine, rod bearings, fix or replace all the various accessories and slide it back into the cleaned up bay. Then I wake up. :laugh_ti:
 

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