so im getting ready to install a stage 3 intake and bbb and a under drive pulley. the 3.0 is stock so im wondering what kind of gains i can expect. i am also wondering what else i can do for inexpensive bolt ons for more. any ideas?
power gains
- Thread starter 93fordsho
- Start date
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The y-pipe which is the best bang for the buck for the MTX: SHO Source
RonPorter
SHO Club of America
Not much, or much you could feel.
Do the y-pipe, and the underdrive pulleys and call it a day. Best butt-dyno feel for the $$$. On a stock engine, the intake stuff will give you next to nothing.
Beyond those two items mentioned above, you have to get into big $$$ for any noticeable gains.
Do the y-pipe, and the underdrive pulleys and call it a day. Best butt-dyno feel for the $$$. On a stock engine, the intake stuff will give you next to nothing.
Beyond those two items mentioned above, you have to get into big $$$ for any noticeable gains.
luigisho
SHO Member
Modify the rest of the car. You will get more improvement from upgraded brakes and suspension. Then go to forced induction if you haven't already lost your shirt or your desire with all the maintenance.
When I did my ported intake with BBB I noticed it more on the secondairies side.
The BBB are good for around 10hp above 4k and the porting is good for up to around 10hp.
The mods will be helpful for when boosted.
The BBB are good for around 10hp above 4k and the porting is good for up to around 10hp.
The mods will be helpful for when boosted.
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fix suspension
If i had to do it again i would first start with suspension.....all bushings(subframe,front and rear strut rod bars, control arms) , subframe connectors, 24mm/26mm sway bars,struts and springs, brakes, and then y-pipe and then lpm. A solid car is going to make you smile when you hit the gas and all power gets to the wheels.
If i had to do it again i would first start with suspension.....all bushings(subframe,front and rear strut rod bars, control arms) , subframe connectors, 24mm/26mm sway bars,struts and springs, brakes, and then y-pipe and then lpm. A solid car is going to make you smile when you hit the gas and all power gets to the wheels.
St Louis SHO
Rollin' coal
Suspension, brakes, and weight reduction is the best way to go about having a cool SHO.
im doing all the suspension parts at the same time. i will be pulling the car into the shop on a saturday night and working on it from then untill its done on sunday. im doing the body stiffening kit as well as brakes and intrax springs. the bushings were all done recently. luckily this is the first out of the 4 ive owned that hasnt required a lot of maintenance. i like the idea of getting the power in the secondaries, since its still a daily driver. the wife would **** me if it used to much gas
gmail
Well-Known Member
i did a full underdrive pullie swap 4 piece and it was a real noticable difference but i also have everything but y pipe and cams at that point really. the rev will be nicer also.
a y pipe will finish off the mods. basicly every mod added on top of another will make a bigger difference then ones alone.
as for the fuel mileage thing you will get better fuel mileage with bolt ons pending keeping your foot out of it..
a engine is like a air pump easier the air can get in and out the more power and more efficient it will be
a y pipe will finish off the mods. basicly every mod added on top of another will make a bigger difference then ones alone.
as for the fuel mileage thing you will get better fuel mileage with bolt ons pending keeping your foot out of it..
a engine is like a air pump easier the air can get in and out the more power and more efficient it will be
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jayro
SHO Member
Ahhh, so true.....it just revs sooooo nice!
jedhead
New Member
I have an old SHO Shop guide log that details the power gains on popular accessories. I thought I would post them again. The dyno used is a DynoJet model 248C. Its my understanding that this is the best dyno to use because you can achieve repeatable results. The car used is a '89 SHO with 111K miles. A 60K was done on the engine with a leak down test to make sure the engine was in good condition. They ran the engine stock for a baseline then ran the car again after each power mod. Here are the numbers...
Stock HP 183@5900
Stock TQ 189@2800
Added 80mm MAF w/LPM and cone filter
HP 189@5900
TQ 191@4800
Added UD pulleys
HP 196@5900
TQ 198@4800
Added (original style non-equal length) Y-pipe
HP 207@6100
TQ 194@4800
Added Cat-back
HP 211@6100
TQ 197@4900
Added Extrude Honed intake and BBB
HP 213@6100
TQ 202@4900
My dyno sheet with all the above mods plus a quaife.
Bob
Stock HP 183@5900
Stock TQ 189@2800
Added 80mm MAF w/LPM and cone filter
HP 189@5900
TQ 191@4800
Added UD pulleys
HP 196@5900
TQ 198@4800
Added (original style non-equal length) Y-pipe
HP 207@6100
TQ 194@4800
Added Cat-back
HP 211@6100
TQ 197@4900
Added Extrude Honed intake and BBB
HP 213@6100
TQ 202@4900
My dyno sheet with all the above mods plus a quaife.
Bob
I have an old SHO Shop guide log that details the power gains on popular accessories. I thought I would post them again. The dyno used is a DynoJet model 248C. Its my understanding that this is the best dyno to use because you can achieve repeatable results. The car used is a '89 SHO with 111K miles. A 60K was done on the engine with a leak down test to make sure the engine was in good condition. They ran the engine stock for a baseline then ran the car again after each power mod. Here are the numbers...
Stock HP 183@5900
Stock TQ 189@2800
Added 80mm MAF w/LPM and cone filter
HP 189@5900
TQ 191@4800
Added UD pulleys
HP 196@5900
TQ 198@4800
Added (original style non-equal length) Y-pipe
HP 207@6100
TQ 194@4800
Added Cat-back
HP 211@6100
TQ 197@4900
Added Extrude Honed intake and BBB
HP 213@6100
TQ 202@4900
My dyno sheet with all the above mods plus a quaife.
Bob
was all of this done in order?
that's great info, jedhead, thanks for posting it.
the other vital piece of data that needs to be said is that anything within 5 hp or 5 lb-ft of torque is within the variance of testing from time to time.
so the small gains may be real or may be test variation. overall, with all the changes, it definitely shows more power and torque.
the other vital piece of data that needs to be said is that anything within 5 hp or 5 lb-ft of torque is within the variance of testing from time to time.
so the small gains may be real or may be test variation. overall, with all the changes, it definitely shows more power and torque.
jedhead
New Member
The dyno testing was done in the order listed on the test car that the SHO Shop used. I did all my mods at once and the dyno sheet shows the results on my car with about 65K. A 60k was done on the car also. My LPM was tuned on the dynojet.
Bob
Bob
im just kinda shocked on a stock 3.0 that a 80mm maf with cone filter gave 5 hp
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