Hubes,
This job took 1.5 hours, including the time to document the entire procedure, replacement of the old antenna cable, and using a grinder to make a tool. I work slowly and methodically, because I'm somewhat ignorant when it comes to hands-on mechanics. If you have skill/familiarity, and a full tool bin, this is a 30 minute job. I've written the below for someone of my skill level; I'm not patronizing you.
Here's what you need:
F0DZ-18813 manual antenna kit
One pr. Channelock-type pliers
One #2 Phillips head screwdriver
Two flathead screwdrivers
10mm socket
7/32 socket
7mm socket
ratchet or nut driver
6" or 12" extension for ratchet or nut driver
1) Remove passenger side front wheel; put jack stand under subframe.
2) Remove wheel well liner. It's held in place with nine fasteners: four plastic push pins, three Phillips head screws, one plastic "pull" pin, and one steel 7mm screw. It's also helpful to remove the 10mm bolt securing the brake line retaining bracket. You can now remove fender well liner; it requires little physical force. NOTE: it's not necessary to remove the color-matched retainer for the lower body cladding.
3) For your power antenna, remove the retaining nut. Use a custom tool, snap ring pliers, or Channelocks with jaws taped/padded. Both the retaining nut and escutcheon (chrome "thingy" covering the hole in the fender) are made of soft, fragile *** metal, so be careful.
4) Motor is held in place with one 7/32 bolt. Here's where you'll appreciate that extension. Use Channelocks to remove RG cable from antenna motor. Use those two flathead screwdrivers to pry apart the power connector to the antenna motor (it's a stubborn, interesting contraption.) Install new bracket with same 7/32 bolt. NOTE: escutcheon for fixed antenna is smaller than your original. See which you prefer. Install retaining nut and your new antenna, using even more care than when you removed it.
5) Possible final step: Plug existing cable jack into your new antenna base! I tested radio reception with the original cable, and it worked. The original jack is slightly different in design than the one provided in the kit, but diameter is the same. If you choose this route, zip-tie the unused power wires safely out of the way. I replaced the entire cable with the one provided in the fixed kit because I need to learn more about these cars. If you wish to do the same, e-mail me and I'll give advice on possible minor pitfalls. beer
