power antenna problems

[Hubes]

my power antenna has never worked right. it never goes down all the way, leaves about 15 inches still up. now it won't even go down at all. i hear the motor running to get it up and take it down but it doesn't go anywhere. any ideas on what to do to fix this poblem? **** it up? get a new antenna? if i do get a new anteanna is there a way i can disconnect the power motor and replace the antenna with a non power antenna?
thanks,
jay

 

[Hubes]

haha look in my sig and u can see how my antenna wouldn't go down all the way. the radio was off in that pic

 

[Mr Anonymous]

Hey Jay, It sounds like you just need a new mast. List price is $42.23. P/N is F3AZ-18A886-A. Most local dealers have it, I got mine at 128 for like $38.00. If the old mast isn't missing any teeth, or just 1-2, it's a 5-minute operation. If there's a lot of teeth or other crud in the motor, it's a 45-minute or so job.

Here's a link to the SHOTimes FAQ on it: http://www.shotimes.com/SHO3antenna.html

 

[RStalveyARFF]

If that's the route you'd like to go Jay, I'll get you my discounted price at the dealer.

 

[Hubes]

thanks for all your help.

 

[rlw001]

I have a working power antena assembly, I'll sell you the whole thing for $30 plus shipping.

 

[wannabeSHOman]

hey bob,

if Jason doesn't want it i'll take it, if it's in good shape. is it used? if so how used?

hey i just remembered, i'm going to Carlisle next saturday (6-1-02), if you are, maybe we could hook up there if we make this deal.

lemme know (email -- [email protected])

tony thumbs_u

 

[Hubes]

how old is the antenna? is there a way u can put a non power antenna on?

 

[Mongo]

Hubes,

All respondents are correct, so hang tight, brother. This weekend, after a fuel pump install, the green beast gets a fixed mast antenna. I'll provide antenna part# (it's in the garage) and will outline the procedure in painful detail. It's still a Taurus (praise Yamaha, f*&^ Ford), and the fixed antenna WILL work.

On another SHO site, I was ripped for even thinking of this notion (I won't go into my suggestion of manual instead of auto climate control; it's not an issue until the original unit breaks.) It's obvious to me the power antenna is inherently flawed. Ford's not the only guilty party: see Honda. Look for a response on Monday.

<small>[ May 29, 2002, 10:43 PM: Message edited by: Mongo ]</small>

 

[Mongo]

Hubes,

This job took 1.5 hours, including the time to document the entire procedure, replacement of the old antenna cable, and using a grinder to make a tool. I work slowly and methodically, because I'm somewhat ignorant when it comes to hands-on mechanics. If you have skill/familiarity, and a full tool bin, this is a 30 minute job. I've written the below for someone of my skill level; I'm not patronizing you.

Here's what you need:

F0DZ-18813 manual antenna kit
One pr. Channelock-type pliers
One #2 Phillips head screwdriver
Two flathead screwdrivers
10mm socket
7/32 socket
7mm socket
ratchet or nut driver
6" or 12" extension for ratchet or nut driver

1) Remove passenger side front wheel; put jack stand under subframe.
2) Remove wheel well liner. It's held in place with nine fasteners: four plastic push pins, three Phillips head screws, one plastic "pull" pin, and one steel 7mm screw. It's also helpful to remove the 10mm bolt securing the brake line retaining bracket. You can now remove fender well liner; it requires little physical force. NOTE: it's not necessary to remove the color-matched retainer for the lower body cladding.
3) For your power antenna, remove the retaining nut. Use a custom tool, snap ring pliers, or Channelocks with jaws taped/padded. Both the retaining nut and escutcheon (chrome "thingy" covering the hole in the fender) are made of soft, fragile *** metal, so be careful.
4) Motor is held in place with one 7/32 bolt. Here's where you'll appreciate that extension. Use Channelocks to remove RG cable from antenna motor. Use those two flathead screwdrivers to pry apart the power connector to the antenna motor (it's a stubborn, interesting contraption.) Install new bracket with same 7/32 bolt. NOTE: escutcheon for fixed antenna is smaller than your original. See which you prefer. Install retaining nut and your new antenna, using even more care than when you removed it.
5) Possible final step: Plug existing cable jack into your new antenna base! I tested radio reception with the original cable, and it worked. The original jack is slightly different in design than the one provided in the kit, but diameter is the same. If you choose this route, zip-tie the unused power wires safely out of the way. I replaced the entire cable with the one provided in the fixed kit because I need to learn more about these cars. If you wish to do the same, e-mail me and I'll give advice on possible minor pitfalls. beer

 

[Hubes]

thanks mongo!

 

[Mongo]

You're welcome, sir. The folks on this fine board have helped me immeasurably,
so I'm happy to contribute in whatever little way I can.

 

[sho-92-95]

Have a 92 & 95 Both had antena problems.
Trip to bone yard got 2 fixed mast from SLO with brackets. NO MORE POWER ANTENA PROBLEMS. cost $10.00 for both cars.

 

[Jerad]

Hey guys...quick question.. I also need to replace my antenna and was wondering if the antenna from here will work: web page

It is a different part number than what was mentioned by SHOooo above... instead it is P/N: F4SF-19A018-AC ..thanks!

 

[Mongo]

Jerad,

A comparison of my SHO antenna motor to the e-bay picture yield several commonalities and several differences. I'd head to the junkyard before I'd risk the $28 bucks on something that might not work. I assume they have a few junkyards in SF; if not, head across the bridge to Oakland

 

[Hubes]

sho 92-95, how did u apply the fixed masts? if i do get a fixed mast i will unhook the power antenna. where is the power wire the for the power antenna because i will just unplug it

 

[Mongo]

Hubes,

I'm answering out of turn, but here's my take: note the wire colors (Green/ yellow stripe,
red/white stripe) when you separate the connector in the wheel well. Drop the glove box.
While in the passenger seat, look to your immediate right in that opening and you'll see a
3" x 5" magical Ford Blue box. Underneath (not behind) this box you should find the two-wire connector you seek. Disconnect. BTW, I think white SHO's are among the sharpest (Even more attractive than "rare" green )

<small>[ June 06, 2002, 10:37 PM: Message edited by: Mongo ]</small>