post 60k problems

[SHOtimer]

These problems were their before my 60k and I was hoping they would go away after. They are reduced extremely and occur much less...the car also runs and performs 100% better. Here they are: Every once and a while the car won't start on the first crank but will fire right up on the second or I will have to crank for about 10 sec before start. Sometimes during cranking it will "****" type sound from the engine compartment then accompanied by a slight smell. I replaced plugs wires, and ECT sensor, cam sensor is also new. The "****" or pop type sound doesn't always happen, but when it does is accompained by long cranking afterwards, and the long cranking only once and a while. Any suggestions? Thanx
Doug

 

[SHO_ROLLER]

Mine does that too. My mechanic told me it's just flooding and I agree. But I'm not 100% sure.

Anthony

 

[Yamaha V6]

If it's flooding, check the fuel pressure at the rail, possibly try a new fuel pressure regulator too.

 

[SolidState]

That was going to be my call, fred....from what I have read and experienced on my car....long cranking times followed by immediate start means a slight fuel pressure problem...

try turning the key on, then off, then on and then start....should work out better for you...

 

[SHOtimer]

But, it starts right up in the morning...and if I was losing fuel pressure it would do it then after the night too. Also, I have a new fuel pump, fuel filter and return line check valve. I am almost positive it has nothing to do with fuel pressure. The only thing I have come short of doing is getting a pressure gauge and measuring it. Maybe I will try that, but I just don't think that is what it is, but thanx I will try that.
Doug

 

[pete c]

You complaining about a long crank? Oh, long cranking. Never mind.

I have similar problems from time to time with having to crank it for 5 or 10 seconds. But it does always seem to start perfectly when it is stone cold.

My guess is that when the engine is partially warmed up, it is warm enough that the computer does not go to the cold start mode, but, not quite warm enough to start without it. After a few seconds of cranking the residual gas left in the chamber from it not firing the previous time makes it rich enough to fire. The **** you here is a single cylinder firing before the rest join in.

 

[jelloslug]

You might want to check the CPS also. Had the same problems when mine went out. If you unhooked it while doing your 60k it my have not gotten pluged back in all the way.

<small>[ January 14, 2003, 08:12 AM: Message edited by: jelloslug ]</small>

 

[rangerj]

Shotimer,

Check the computer for codes. If any codes are stored, check the sensors and circuits that coded.

If no codes are present, check all the sensor connections including the 60 pin connection at the firewall.

Poor connections are a common cause of intermittent problems.

The popping sound you hear could be a backfire. If it is, the anti-knock sensor should code.

The temperature sensor(not the temperature sending unit), tells the computer when the engine is cold, warm, or hot. The computer uses this information to control the injectors, the IAB or idle air control, spark advance/retard, etc.

If a failing temperature sensor is telling the computer that the engine is warm, when in fact it is dead cold, it could cause your hard starting problem.

These are just some thoughts on the questions you raised, hope they help. rangerj

 

[SHOtimer]

This problem was their before my 60k, with the old ECT, and I put in a new Ford ECT. So, I kinda think I have eliminated that. I didn't touch the CPS, and it only has about 9k on it. What has been said makes sense and is greatly appreciated, I guess it is just wishful thinking that someone would suggest something I haven't thought of, that would magically fix it. Thanx for your responses and I will use your advice,
Doug