Play in left front wheel.

[Lupo]

I have had a bit of play/clunking in my left front wheel, but only when the car is on the ground. My outer tierods are brand new, so I assumed that the play was coming from the inner tierods. I put the car on the lift, and popped the tierods to check them. My PS rack had no play at all with the tierods popped off, so it isn't anything with the rack, or tierod ends.
Still, I have this little play/clunking in my front left wheel when the suspension is compressed, and the right front wheel is fine.
Possibly a bad bearing, or spindle? I'm open for any ideas at this point.

Thanks.

 

[kurtis adum]

i would say wheel bearing
kurt

 

[SonicRiot]

Wheel bearing or ball joint.

Or a loose wheel...

 

[jedhead]

I suspect a wheel bearing also. Is the play in all directions? Maybe the ball joint on the LCA?

BTW we are having meets the next two weekends. Mile Square Sunday and Rowland Hieghts the following Saturday. Hope you can make it. You can call me 714-206-4542 for details. Also have threads under SHOCal. The Saturday meet is with a Mustang club and it sure would be nice to see the faces when you pop the hood on the green beast.

Bob

 

[Lupo]

The lower control arms/ball joints are new, so I am really leaning towards a wheel bearing. When the car is parked on level ground, you can grab both sides of the tire and twist left to right and back, and feel a little clunk. No clunk with the suspension dropped.

The meetings should be fun.

 

[Ishodu]

Take a close look at the strut rod bushings also. And where they mount going though the sub-frame.

 

[Sh03d]

Does it happen when braking at all?

 

[Lupo]

Does it happen when braking at all?

Don't feel anything while braking. The strut rod bushings are new as well.
For the bearings, do I have to remove the entire spindle, and are both bearings pressed in and out?

Thanks.

 

[kurtis adum]

yup,, have to have a shop do it. wel not everybody
kurt

 

[Lupo]

I tightened the axle nut, and it seemed to get rid of a little play, but most of it remains. Do you think that the spindle is damaged, or just the bearings?

 

[jedhead]

I would say bearings

Bob

 

[rktmn]

Could be your steering rack.

Does the car wander a bit when you are driving, especially at high speed?

You may need to replace the steering arms (rod ends), not the rack itself.

Jack up one side of the car, grab the wheel and shake it. If it moves, look under the car to see what is moving. If your steering arm goes in and out of the steering rack, but the rack does not leak, you wiill need to replace the rod ends only.

Jose

 

[SHO_Driver]

If its the bearing, with the wheel off the ground you'll be able to wiggle in all directions. I just fixed a similar clunk by replacing my 1 year old LCA. The balljoint was so loose the wheel could be moved from 3 to 9 o'clock several inches. It was a cheap low quality one, I replaced it with a Moog. Now its all tight and quiet.

 

[rangerj]

Didn't Ford start using the bolt on bearing assembly in the mid 90's?
Is the 94 a "press in bearing into the hub" year?

 

[Minnesho]

yes it is a "press in bearing" it also dosent spin on the spindle itself, so the spindle most likley isnt bad. yes you have to take off the spindle to replace the bearing, also when you tighten the axle nut make sure you tourqe it to spec because the proper tourqe spec is what preloads the bearing. when you tightened the axle nut more you probably just took more slack out of the bad bearing. make sure you use a new axle nut as well. i beleive the tourqe spec is around 190 ft lbs

 

[rangerj]

Additional thoughts:

Tha axel nut, and the steering knuckle pinch bolt and nut should be replaced (OEM recommended). The nuts are "lock" nuts and are intended for one use only. The pinch bolts get worn and/or distorted. If the bolt is straight and does not have any wear spots on it, and not badly rusted, it can be reused.

The hub AND bearing should both be replaced. If you are getting that much wobble then the hub has been distorted. If a distorted hub is pressed into the bearing it will ruin the new bearing in a short amount of time.

The process for replacing the bearing should be done according to the Helm Ford shop manual. After the steering knuckle is removed and the old hub and bearing is removed, then the new bearing is pressed into the steering knuckle. Then the STEERING KNUCKLE and BEARING (assembled) ARE PRESSED "ONTO" (NOT INTO) THE HUB.

DO NOT PRESS the hub INTO the bearing. Press the knuckle and bearing assembly ONTO the hub. The idea is to press the back of the bearing while the hub is putting pressure on the front of the bearing. The near equal pressure on both sides of the bearing prevent it from being distorted.

All fasteners should be torqued to OEM specifications. The axel nut is critical as it sets the preload on the bearing. If this (torque) is not correct the bearing will be destroyed in a short time. If I remember correctly the torque specification for the axel nut is 180 ft. lbs. to 200 ft. lbs. 190 ft lbs is sufficient. Lastly, it is also important to torque the wheel lug nut correctly to 85 ft.lbs to 105 ft lbs. This is important so as not to warp the brake disks.

 

[Lupo]

Thanks for the advice!

I have a good condition 94 spindle on a parts subframe I have lying around.
I removed the spindle, and the bearings are in excellent condition. So instead of using the old spindle with new bearings, I am going to replace it altogether with this other spindle. I ordered the axle nut and pinch bolt from from Ford as well.
Especailly after reading your advice, I thinkg replacing the spindle is a better and easier job.

 

[kurtis adum]

thats what i did worked out great and easy
kurt

 

[SonicRiot]

well, you've just saved $80 a piece worth of hub and bearings assemblies and bypassed the task of installing them. Parts cars rule!


...provided the one you drive is not the 'parts' car!

 

[kurtis adum]

i wish it still was. not anymore thou