Personal Record, SHOFORUM code shooting CHALLENGE

[1slickRED89]

I pulled the trouble codes on my '94 ATX and was blessed with 17 different unique trouble code. a few I know what they mean, but I'm baffled on the others.

to make it fun, for every correctly diagnosed code I'll donate $1 to SHOFORUM.com. I will double the donation if ONE person correctly diagnosed ALL the codes. Also double dollars if someone gets two or more codes with one diagnosis.

KOEO:

511: EEC Processer read only memory error (solved)
636: transmission oil temp sensor out of range
327: DPFE circuit below voltage
556: fuel pump relay primary circuit failure (solved)
551: IAC circuit failure
564: electro drive fan circuit failure
563: high speed electro drive failure
558: EGR vacuum circuit failure
565: canister purge circuit failure
621: shift solenoid #1 circuit failure
622: shift circuit #2 circuit failure
631 or 641: overdrive cancel light indicator light circuit failure OR shift solenoid circuit failure

continuous memory:

157 mass airflow sensor circuit below minimum voltage
214 cylinder identification circuit failure
327 DPFE circuit below minimum voltage
556 fuel pump relay primary circuit failure (solved)
634 manual lever position sensor out of self test range (A/c was off)

 

[Jaz2099]

Clean the IAC/IAB, Clean the MAF. Replace the DPFE sensor. Replace camshaft sensor. Keep resetting til you get less codes .

 

[Ishodu]

First think I would ask is how long has it been scine the codes have been cleared? If you don't know. I would just clear them and then drive for a few days. Then pull them again. That will prolly rid a lot of them unless you have some issues.

 

[SuperHO]

511 means you have an aftermarket chip.....clean your EGR system and replace the DPFE to get rid of that one....fuel pump primary circuit failure means your car stalled at least once since you last cleared codes......your canister purge circuit failure is a lil T-shaped thingy inline with the rubber hose that comes off your intake near your IAB down to parts unknown below your airbox, replace that....

those are just off the top of my head....from codes I've gotten in the past.


Think that's special, try figuring out how your Non-CA MTX car got an EGR code......

 

[Rockledge]

I agree with Marcel, erase the codes, drive around for several days and then pull them again.

 

[1slickRED89]

I cleared the EEC right before this run, that's why it's funny to me. MAF is New, as in less than 20 miles new.

511, correct
556x2, the car did stall twice, I didn't know that's what it meant.

shoforum = $5

Clean the IAC/IAB

why clean the Intake air bypass along with the intake air temperature sensor, what will that do?

 

[SuperHO]

yay me!!!!

 

[projectSHO89]

With that many codes, it is pointless to try to analyze each code.

The "correct" procedure is to repair the first code output by the PCM, retest, and then continue untill all are corrected. Certain faults have a cascade reaction and will lead to other indicated failures that are, in fact, not really failures.

Remove whatever aftermarket chip (or whatever) is installed.

Reset the computer.

Run engine to operating condition (do not drive it).

Run the KOER test following all instructions.

Record all codes.

Address the first code....

Cleaing the IAT is a pointless operation as it is just a temperature sensor. It will read the same whether it is clean or dirty.

There is no indication that your EGR system is clogged. Defer any cleaning until such an indication is offered or you just get bored.

Don't bother replacing any other sensors, valves, etc, they are not likely to be your problem.

Most of those devices whose code description includes the words "circuit failure" share a common power source. Look at CCRM pin 24 (RED) for battery power when the ignition switch is in RUN. This is the source for the power for most of these sensors and actuators.

There is a fair chance that pin 24 will be okay but there is an open in the harness. If so, go to each of the sensors/actuators indicated (if accessible) and check the RED wire for battery voltage with the IGN switch in RUN.

Also, check for your 5.0V Vref at the TPS (GRAY/RED). It's probably okay, but it will make a good data reference point as to what works and what doesn't.

Steve

 

[SuperHO]

geezus....what a buzz ****....give us a chance, man!!

 

[projectSHO89]

geezus....what a buzz ****....give us a chance, man!!

Get over it.

The idea is to not waste time, money, or effort in chasing one's tail.

Steve

 

[SuperHO]

Eh, both the time and money is his...let em waste it if he wants.

 

[1slickRED89]

thats a great tip about PIN 24, I will check that tonite!

also the car won't run without a chip. and the EGR system is deleted (that was worth as much as $6 shoforum dollars, cats out of the bag now)