Pcv ?

[SHO Nick]

Well..I get ALOT of oil film in my intake...and when I took it off this last weekend....there was oil and water mixed together in the TB...where the small hole in the bottom is...the same elbow tube the a hose connects to the TB underneath....MY QUESTION IS....

How can I eliminate oil in my intake safely? Where to I add the catch can Etc? I know its between on the the lines...but which one? I have only two lines going to the TB, the one from the crankcase(valve cover), and one hose that connects to the bottom(underneath) the TB itself..

 

[Sho-Driver]

A catch can would go between your PCV outlet(block-oil seperator) and your throttle body.

You will still get oil in your intake, just not as much. If you notice, most of the oily soot is at the exit of the runners near the head. Add cams in the mix and the intake is prone to become more dirty.

The CCV (outlet at valve cover) is acutally a fresh air inlet. Meaning, it takes intake into the crank case. The only time it is used as a PCV is when the actual PCV cannot keep up in cases where you may have excess blow-by.

 

[SHOZ123]

What you find is the PCV gasses that condensate in the intake manifold will be cooked the closer to the cylinders it gets. In the actual surge tank it is an oily goo. At the valves the lighter components get boiled off and carbon is left behind.

 

[Sho-Driver]

The oil or 'gasses' do not just come from the PCV. With out a PCV, you will see some of the same substance at the end of the runners. I have personally documented this.

 

[SHO Nick]

So which hose is my PCV one, and does anyone have pics of this setup?

 

[Off Road SHO]

Nick,

It's the big one that attaches to the bottom of your throttle body. It's darn hard to get off. The other end of this hose attaches to the oil/oil vapor separator that resides deep inside the "V" of your motor.

Hot oil vapor condenses on anything that is cooler and leaves that oily residue.

Tom

 

[SHO Nick]

Okay, so...I extend that hose...which is like 1/2" thick.....in radius acutally...and umm...add a catch can...then have the other end of the tube connect to the TB? Would it matter if the vapors have to travel a longer distance? say if I want the catch can somewhere else, away from the TB?

 

[SHOZ123]

On my GEN 3 I used over 9' of 3/8" hose to got to the can and back. The more the better as it gives the gasses more surface area to cool and condense.

 

[Off Road SHO]

On my GEN 3 I used over 9' of 3/8" hose to got to the can and back. The more the better as it gives the gasses more surface area to cool and condense.

That is a good idea as long as there are no dips in the hoses for the liquid to collect in. An ideal solution would be a non restrictive heat exchanger that you would draw intake air through.

Tom

 

[Lupo]

Another option is to route your PCV through your exahust utilizing a check valve and a notch/angled bung. Basically, you would run a line from the oil seperator to the exhaust, post catalytic converter. On the throttle body where the PCV would normally connect, would need to be capped in addition. At idle, there is MORE than enough vacuum on the crankcase. As you progress in RPM, you increase flow which also increases vacuum on the crankcase. At WOT, you have maximum flow. The stock configuration will have no real vacuum at WOT.

There are also no noticable oil smells nor oil soot at the end of the tail pipes.

That is an interesing idea. Would you have a picture/example you could post?

 

[SHO Dude]

FWIW, I block the valve cover vent tube and the ****** under the throttle body, then route the crankcase vent to the inlet of the blower. This insures that there is no unmetered air entering the engine.

 

[SHOZ123]

That is a good idea as long as there are no dips in the hoses for the liquid to collect in. An ideal solution would be a non restrictive heat exchanger that you would draw intake air through.

Tom

First let me state this only works on a NA engine. Second it woks best on the V8 which develops a lot more PCV vacuum (~7") than the V6 (~2"). The V6 needs the exhaust vacuum set up to get good crank vacuum, and with the exhaust set up there is no need for the catch can. I too would like to see some pictures, I have seen the setup sold on some sites.

I run the valve cover inlet plugged and the oil separator hose goes to the catch can located in the passenger side fender well.

As long as there is vacuum developed on the system they is flow because of the constant production of blowby. I have had no problems at all with anything pooling in the dips because of lack of flow.

The catch can has a spring loaded check valve that will close under vacuum and pop open when the vacuum drops to 0" Hg such as when the engine is off. This drains the can.

My experience with this over the last +2 years has shown no ill effects (except weird noises) and the intake after +35k miles showed absolutely no oil residue at all. A very slight powdery carbon accumulation at some points and some carbon build up on the valves. But nothing even close to a system that runs the OEM setup.

 

[Lupo]

FWIW, I block the valve cover vent tube and the ****** under the throttle body, then route the crankcase vent to the inlet of the blower. This insures that there is no unmetered air entering the engine.

This is what I do as well. I hope that you have a catch can. Still, this throws oil and oil vapors back into the intake, and gets all the piping and intake covered in a thin film of oil. I take all the piping off and clean the oil residue often. I'm tired of doing that.
BTW, what do you mean my unmetered air from the crankcase? If you cap off the TB PCV connections, there is no unmetered air, regardless of what you do with the crankcase and valve cover vents.

 

[Sho-Driver]

I'll take some pictures tomorrow when it is light out.

 

[Sho-Driver]

Here are the pictures some of you were asking about. It looks like I need to fix that oil leak...

Here is the connection from the oil seperator and the hose that is connected to the check valve and bung.

This is the check valve and bung.

Let me know if you have any other questions on the system. I must add that there are two types of bungs out there. One is cut at an angle and that is it. The other is cut at an angle and has a slit cut in the side to help draw more vacuum. I bought the one without the slit and cut my own.

 

[Lupo]

Here are the pictures you some of you were asking about. I looks like I need to fix that oil leak...

Here is the connection from the oil seperator and the hose that is connected to the check valve and bung.

This is the check valve and bung.

Let me know if you have any other questions on the system. I must add that there are two types of bungs out there. One is cut at an angle and that is it. The other is cut at an angle and has a slit cut in the side to help draw more vacuum. I bought the one without the slit and cut my own.

Sweet!
So the check valve and bung are on the same piece? Where did you get them?
Also, do you have you valve cover connected capped, teed in with the crankcase , or a breather?

 

[Sho-Driver]

The bung and check valve are two seperate pieces. The check valve *may* eventually wear out. Both are threaded so you can reaplace the valve.

I bought mine from Jeg's. It was the cheaper version that did not have the 'slit' cut into it. I fixed that problem by doing it myself.


Found here: http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ProductDisplay?prrfnbr=1783&prmenbr=361

If you look at this next kit (very closely), you will see the slit I am refering to (this helps create more vacuum).

Found here: http://store.summitracing.com/defau...earchinresults=false&N=0&target=egnsearch.asp

Out of the kit, all you need is the bung, and check valve. The chrome breather is for a american V8 or the like.

As far as the CCV goes. I've run it stock, with a breather, and I now have it capped. I prefer to run it capped or with a breather that lets very little air flow through it. This way you won't be completely sucking from the CCV and you will have some fresh air coming through. You do not really want to 'tee' it in with the PCV to the exhaust. You'll want some fresh air or none. The evac kit will be more flow than you'll ever really need.

 

[92sho16]

If you look at this next kit (very closely), you will see the slit I am refering to (this helps create more vacuum).

I assume the slit on the bung actually goes into the exhaust pipe itself?

 

[Sho-Driver]

I assume the slit on the bung actually goes into the exhaust pipe itself?

Correct.

This may help clear things up....

 

[K-Dawg]

Summit sells the Moroso ****** (with slit) and check valve separately.
Check Valve $19.69
Weld in ****** (with slit) $10.69
Total - $30.38

The full Moroso set from Summit is $59.88.

The Mr. Gasket set is $31.99 from JEG'S and it has two ******* and two valves, but the ******* don't have the slits.

I think I might just buy the ****** and valve separately from Summit so I don't have to bother with cutting the slit.