PBR Caliper Prep for Boat's SHO

[boat]

I am getting ready to do put on some PBR Calipers on my 94 MTX, but not before painting them, probably going to try to get something that closely matches my SHO, body color wise, or maybe something bright and eyecatching.

The calipers themselves are reman'd, so probably some laquer thinner and some elbow grease and those will be ready for priming.

Bubba and I started working on the caliper brackets last Saturday. They were pretty rusty and grimey. Sorry no pics of before the sanding but.. I do have some post sanding (80 grit sandpaper) and cleaning with simple green pics...

After soaking in hot soapy Simple Green and scrubbed, pretty clean considering they were black and rusty when we started.

I will keep this updated with photos as we progress with completion on these.

Thanks

 

[Eric VerValin]

Honestly man... as hot as they get... I would seriously consider getting them PC'ed. I painted mine, and after a few years they crack and fall off. Maybe I didn't put enough coats on, I don't know...

Call Pro strip and see what they would want to do those... can't imagine it would be much.

 

[boat]

I already did. They wanted something like $125 just to do the calipers, that is if they were dissassembled already. Not including caliper brackets. I think it would have come close to $150 plus tax. Bubba said if we primer them, the paint should have something better to stick to.

Honestly man... as hot as they get... I would seriously consider getting them PC'ed. I painted mine, and after a few years they crack and fall off. Maybe I didn't put enough coats on, I don't know...

Call Pro strip and see what they would want to do those... can't imagine it would be much.

 

[bubba]

I think the paint would stick if you used I temp paint also! and baked it in... or a higher temp paint!

those look better than they left my house Sunday! and it was dark when working on them..... not bad lol

I already did. They wanted something like $125 just to do the calipers, that is if they were dissassembled already. Not including caliper brackets. I think it would have come close to $150 plus tax. Bubba said if we primer them, the paint should have something better to stick to.

 

[Eric VerValin]

Dude.. thats all I used.. calipers and the intake... high temp caliper paint... even baked them...

Bubbles you must be getting old... your memory is slipping.. lol

 

[K-Dawg]

Shouldn't cost much more than $20 to have them powdercoated. Shop around.

I painted some calipers with Duplicolor ceramic high heat paint several years ago and they held up great. Its all in the prep.

 

[bubba]

bubbles! Look here Erica! lol I must be.... PC is the best way to go! but hey, it's all good!

Dude.. thats all I used.. calipers and the intake... high temp caliper paint... even baked them...

Bubbles you must be getting old... your memory is slipping.. lol

 

[Storm-Chaser]

bubbles . . . ?


:fight:

Dude.. thats all I used.. calipers and the intake... high temp caliper paint... even baked them...

Bubbles you must be getting old... your memory is slipping.. lol

 

[bubba]

Storm, we call one another girls names.... and we keep it fresh with different names.... When we get together and hangout that's what we do lol

bubbles . . . ?


:fight:

 

[Storm-Chaser]

And your admitting to this?


:banghd:

 

[bubba]

I'm man about it.... and that's all they could come up with lol, just like I man enough to wear pink lol.... You should hear what they get called lol.... now if somebody else called me that! I would kick the crap out of them! or use a baseball bat if they were bigger than me lol

And your admitting to this?


:banghd:

 

[SeanMc]

I'm the man in the relationship

Ok dude, we don't need to know more about your relationship with Eric(a).


Anyway, that must be the Mustang GT upgrade? I'm not sure you are going to like it. The 11.6" upgrade is far better.

 

[Eric VerValin]

******** it bubbles, you see what you started... lol

 

[boat]

Ok dude, we don't need to know more about your relationship with Eric(a).

Exactly. I didn't start this thread for that. More of how to help others in prepping and painting, for those that haven't done much, and not junk up this thread with little name calling and childishness.

Anyway, that must be the Mustang GT upgrade? I'm not sure you are going to like it. The 11.6" upgrade is far better.

According to Storm-Chaser, The PBR Upgrade has the same effectiveness as the 96+ brake upgrade. Plus I got most of the stuff for free when I bought my SHO from e_clouser back in January this year. I did use the old calipers to turn in for cores and got fresh reman'd calipers. So, that is the way I am going. Can't beat free!

 

[Eric VerValin]

I think, the way you drive it should be ok... if you try to beat on it a little , I would worry moreso about warping the rotors. Get some nice ones for extra insurance. There are 2 parts that make the 96, a good upgrade. Bigger pads. And bigger rotors to help keep them a little cooler.

By bigger I mean 24 square inches of steel on the face of the rotors...

10.2 = 3.14 * 5.1 * 5.1 = 81.67 in sq'd
11.6 = 3.14 * 5.8 * 5.8 = 105.62 in sq'd

I remember back when I drove my 91, if I was playing with my car a little too much on some of those back country roads, I could melt the brake pads off and watch red hot chunks fly out of the wheels.. That was usually enough to warp the crap outta them.

Another option is get some lifetime warranty rotors, and just get new ones when and if they do warp on ya. It just depends on how you drive... I know your a little 'spirited' when you drive around town.. so I'd either get some lifer's or some heat treated rotors if I were you.

 

[boat]

I see your math on the discs. But I believe the pads are bigger for the PBR upgrade then the 96 upgrade. Besides, like I said, got it for free, gonna take advantage of it. I will be getting better discs for the front before I do this, just to complete the set-up. Thanks...

I think, the way you drive it should be ok... if you try to beat on it a little , I would worry moreso about warping the rotors. Get some nice ones for extra insurance. There are 2 parts that make the 96, a good upgrade. Bigger pads. And bigger rotors to help keep them a little cooler.

By bigger I mean 24 square inches of steel on the face of the rotors...

10.2 = 3.14 * 5.1 * 5.1 = 81.67 in sq'd
11.6 = 3.14 * 5.8 * 5.8 = 105.62 in sq'd

I remember back when I drove my 91, if I was playing with my car a little too much on some of those back country roads, I could melt the brake pads off and watch red hot chunks fly out of the wheels.. That was usually enough to warp the crap outta them.

Another option is get some lifetime warranty rotors, and just get new ones when and if they do warp on ya. It just depends on how you drive... I know your a little 'spirited' when you drive around town.. so I'd either get some lifer's or some heat treated rotors if I were you.

 

[CademiaX]

I just bought a set of these

 

[bubba]

I really think Boat should be good.... I wouldn't get them to hot though. I don't think he will get them hot enough to heat them up to melt the paint off of them! With that said..... When are you going to paint them?

 

[Eric VerValin]

Has nothing to do with melting paint.. has everything to do with warping rotors. Thats what I was getting at.

 

[Shoaz]

Has nothing to do with melting paint.. has everything to do with warping rotors. Thats what I was getting at.

Check out StopTech's (or similar) sites about "warping" rotors. You can't really overheat a rotor, and they don't really "warp" (at least, many reputable folks like Carroll Smith said they never saw it happen).

You can imprint a pad if you're not careful and the brakes are hot, which results in the pulsation that a lot of people will call a "warped rotor", but that's curable and also easily avoidable.

Brake rotors are probably the most heat-tolerant component on the car. I've got 'em up to ~1500F+ repeatedly without any ill effects. If you're going to track a car or drive a lot of mountain roads (or something) and want the calipers to stay pretty, though, you do need to pick a paint/finish that's heat tolerant.