Overheating issues - need advice

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ChrisR

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OK, I have replaced the Radiator, T-stat, temp sender. I have checked all the hoses for a clog of some sort. However, my car still overheats pretty bad. I have no clue what else it could be. I think I might just have to take it in, and have a shop do a diagnosis. What do you guys think I should do? Any last ditch efforts I could try?

Thanks,
Chris
 

Blast7

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Do you make sure to let the car run and the thermostat to open at least 3 times while filling it up? This will make sure the radiator is full with no air bubbles in it.
 

projectSHO89

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Start engine. Run until it reaches operating temperature. Shut off. Allow to cool completely. Repeat twice more.

Upon what are you basing your concern that the engine is overheating? The guage? Steam pouring from under the hood? Or what?

Steve
 

ChrisR

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OK, that's all I thought it was, and yes, I have done that.
I'm basing the overheating on a quick-rising guage, strange gurgling noises after the car is shut off, and the engine seems hotter than normal to-the-touch.

Chris
 

pjtoledo

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For openers, how about the radiator cap? You need 14-16 lbs of pressure in the system, that raises the boiling point from 212 to about 250 degrees. You mentioned gurgling, need air pockets to get gurgling, lines full of coolant don't make noise. Possible sources of air pockets are not enough coolant, or exhaust gas getting into the coolant system. Is the overflow tank functioning properly? As the engine heats up coolant expands and is forced into the overflow tank. It gets sucked back into the system as the engine cools. Need a good radiator cap for those processes. Does the engine fan turn on? Turning the cabin fan to HI forces the engine fan on, does it come on? How about when using AC or defroster, both should turn engine fan on. Overheating at speed, or idling? If overheating at speed the problem may be coolant flow,or lack there-of. Low coolant or water pump maybe? If overheats while idling look at air flow problems,,the fan. Keep us posted.

Perry Toledo,Ohio
 

HopefulSHO

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Quick rising gauge + gurgeling (sp)..does sound like air pockets in the cooling system. Supposidly filling the cooling system *very slowly* by one of the throttle-body hoses helps get the air out. Not sure witch one, but I belvie I saw that on Shotimes .
 

haydenm315

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have you done a radiator flush with a seperate backflush of the heater core? My car used to get up to the N in normal if it was idling in the city on an average night. Now it doesn't get past O before the fan comes on if I'm sitting still at idle for a while. The temperature outside may have something to do with it but I think the flushing its part.
 

unterhausen

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ChrisR:
OK, I have replaced the Radiator, T-stat, temp sender. I have checked all the hoses for a clog of some sort. However, my car still overheats pretty bad. I have no clue what else it could be. I think I might just have to take it in, and have a shop do a diagnosis. What do you guys think I should do? Any last ditch efforts I could try?

Thanks,
Chris
Chris, I was hoping you would solve your problem before I solved mine, but no joy. My problem was a water pump impeller that had no blades left, they were totally gone.

As I recall, you were having noises too? My theory of what happened to mine was that the bearings went and that took out the impeller.

I'm going to try to flush the blades back out of the engine as soon as I make enough friends to push the car back in the garage when I'm done.
 

projectSHO89

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My problem was a water pump impeller that had no blades left, they were totally gone.
Were the blades on the failed impeller made from plastic or from metal.

I've been keeping an eye on water pump impeller problems on the Contour forum (wife drives a 98 Contour SE that I have to keep running)..

Just wndering.

Bearing failure would have to be pretty bad, IMHO, for the impeller to fail. I suppose if the bearing collapsed and the impeller made contact with the inside of the housing it would happen.

Chris.. An engine does get pretty hot while operating. Please get and use an accurate guage to determine the true condition of your system.

Steve
 

rangerj

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CHRIS,

The gurgling sound you describe sounds like an air-in-the-system problem, no pun intended.

As stated above, the radiator cap may not be holding pressure, and as the system cools down may be allowing air to be sucked in.

The overflow bottle hose is another possibility. It may have cracks in it, especially where it slips over the ****** at the radiator cap, or the overflow bottle.

Any loose hose connection, or a small hole in any of the systems hoses can also cause air to be sucked into the system.

If none of these seem to be the problem, try running the engine up to operating temperature with the radiator cap off. As the thermostat opens, due to the engine comming up to operating temperature, you will see the coolant "flow".

WARNING: 1. Put the cap on fully before you shut the engine down. 2. DO NOT REMOVE A RADIATOR CAP FROM A HOT ENGINE.

Watch for bubbles, i.e. air in the system. A small amount of bubbles is normal. A large amount of bubbles, burping if you will, or foam, is not normal.

You can buy a test kit at most auto parts stores that will tell you if you are getting exaust gas in the system. If you do find that it is exaust gas, this is an indication of a head gasket failure.

Start with the simple stuff, e.g. radiator cap, check for good connections, check the overflow bottle and its hose.

Check the lowest part of the timing belt cover for any signs of coolant, usually toward the back side of the cover (behind the crankshaft pulley).
If you find coolant there, it is a pretty good indication of a water pump that is failing.

You can also look behind the water pump pulley, on its underside with a small mirror, for the "weep hole". Look for signs of leaking fluid, e.g. a trail of fluid, or a trace of off white colored mineral deposits.

It could also show up as a clean spot, or trail on the water pump metal. The hot fluid cleans away the grease and grime. Hope this helps, rangerj
 

unterhausen

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projectSHO89:
Were the blades on the failed impeller made from plastic or from metal.

I've been keeping an eye on water pump impeller problems on the Contour forum (wife drives a 98 Contour SE that I have to keep running)..

Just wndering.

Bearing failure would have to be pretty bad, IMHO, for the impeller to fail. I suppose if the bearing collapsed and the impeller made contact with the inside of the housing it would happen.

Steve
Impeller was metal, havent checked it for being stainless or not, didn't look like it. Genuine ford rebuild, got the sticker.

I didn't say it was a _good_ theory, but it's mine :0. The bearings are definitly bad, it's a little difficult to measure the inlet tip clearance to determine if there was interferance.
 

ChrisR

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Thanks so much for all the replies everybody. Well I went to start it up this morning since my audi died on my yesterday, so I figured I would take the SHO to work. I hadn't started it for about a week. so it doesn't start...
I hook up the jumper cables to it and the under-hood light comes on. All the accessories also come on. Well it still doesn't start. It just makes a fast clicking noise. I let it on the jumper cables for about 15 min. and still no start, just clicking.

Starter??? shrug
 

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