Overheating Issue

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mrgrim333

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A few weeks back my fan stopped working, figure it was the ccrm, didn't have the money or time to mess with it. Just hotwired the fan to a switch.

Even with that, it would hover on N and O of normal.
Still had coolant in it, opened the top and reved it, fed it, and still have the same issue.

Today, I replaced the Coolant Temperature SENDER (Not the sensor, I replaced that a month or two ago). After replacing that and trying to do the whole heater thing (Full blast heat on both vent and defrost), I have no heat in the car, and now it's trying to creep past the N before I **** it in fear for my head gaskets. Maybe the thermostat is stuck shut, even though I literally just replaced that 3 weeks ago.

Don't think the headgaskets are toast yet, no water/coolant out the tailpipes, and it seems to hold coolant pretty well, not just gushing in or anything.

So at this point, I don't know what to think. I just replaced the water pump about a year ago (From what I can tell it's not leaking either), it's not leaking like crazy from anywhere else, little bit by the coolant tube, but that's it.

What the **** is going on?

Edit:
HHeat comes on only when driving. Only gets like 3 miles before it's at N
 
Last edited:

Irish Pride

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Change your radiator cap. Sounds like its bad and not letting the system pressurize.
 

kevinspann

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Does the inside of the radiator look nice and clean? Or are there a lot of deposits. Heater core could be clogged too. Check the inlet and outlet hoses of the core to see if they are close to the same temp. A big difference means it's clogged.

Also check the A/C condenser and front of the radiator for debris clogging the cooling fins.
 

rubydist

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no heat in the cabin in these cars usually means that the system is low on coolant, but it can mean a plugged heater core or collapsed hose to the heater.
 

mrgrim333

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I got a new radiator cap, flushed the system, and now have the water + flush inside.

While I had it Drained, for giggles I pulled out the thermostat and boiled it. Only opened 1mm at 200+ degrees. Bought a new one. Boiled, opened 1/4th an inch. Think that was one of the major problems. I'll edit some pics in here when I'm home.

Also made damn sure no air was trapped between engine and heater core (there's a little T fitting I put in so I could flush the system).

Drove it to work and some extra, not overheating! Yay, my headgasket lives another day! Thanks all!
 

DeepPower

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Get yourself a Failsafe-brand thermostat. If they go bad, they stay in the open position so you still get cooling.

Add a bottle of Water Wetter to the radiator. Magic stuff that will lower the temperature of your engine.
 

tery

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Thanks for that reminder Kevin, I lost a nice Olds Delta 88 because I never knew about the ac condenser issue, I went out and power sprayed Babe's as soon as I read your post. She is running hot I think, It goes back down with the fan and both core hoses are about the same temp to feel, I ordered a new thermostat too, It's been a while I'm sure...
tks again,
T
 

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