Opinions on most ideal camber setup...
- Thread starter Ecoboost_xsport
- Start date
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Ecoboost_xsport
SHO Member
So you guys think I should actually be increasing my negative camber from what I currently show on that alignment sheet? Currently, front left is at -0.6, front right is at -1.4 and both rears are at -1.5
And when you mean close to the limit of stock toe, you refer to the max or min limit?
And when you mean close to the limit of stock toe, you refer to the max or min limit?
Enough to over load the suspension at wot. Posible cure, stiffer rear suspension
Again, you, my friend, are in uncharted waters.
Ecoboost_xsport
SHO Member
I am not thinking it's my suspension as I've got H&R sport springs, Bilstein B6s (step up from OEM B4s), pretty stiff Steeda sway bar and stronger toe links/trailing arms. It probably doesn't get much beefier or stiffer than this without becoming a harsh ride.
Ecoboost_xsport
SHO Member
So I'm gettin ready to take it in for another alignment. I think I'm going to go with a slightly more aggressive camber setup.
This is mostly for "spirited" street driving with the occasional stoplight "challenge".
Going to go with -2deg. I'm currently below the recommended settings at:
FL: -0.6deg
FR: -1.4deg
RL: -1.5deg
RR: -1.5deg
Question: front and rear identical or different setup for each?
This is mostly for "spirited" street driving with the occasional stoplight "challenge".
Going to go with -2deg. I'm currently below the recommended settings at:
FL: -0.6deg
FR: -1.4deg
RL: -1.5deg
RR: -1.5deg
Question: front and rear identical or different setup for each?
Jordan_R
Stock Block Ready To Knock...er..Rock
So I've had plenty of time to think about this and what I went with was as close to zero camber in the front because personally I think that helps get a good contact patch for digz and being so heavily biased to the front. However rear I have -1.8 degrees of camber which I figured would decrease when I stripped the car. However you say your drive pretty spirited so I'm assuming twisties so -2 camber would do you well. That's basically euro specs in camber which they usually handle the twisties better. Just remember more camber means less contact patch on the ground when straight lining. Camber helps the tires grip when they have a load around a corner. All about finding a balance in that sense I guess.
Jordan_R
Stock Block Ready To Knock...er..Rock
That's something that is getting addressed with my race team buddy once the car is back together! Gonna do the whole slow mo analysis
Ecoboost_xsport
SHO Member
LOL, yes, I just don't want to hog all the camber...that's just rude. I'll leave a bit for everybody else. haha
Ecoboost_xsport
SHO Member
OK, so to give me a bit more traction on the front wheels for those diigggggzzzz, I'll bring the front to -1 camber and keep the back at -2 camber, sound reasonable to start with?
What about toe, any recommendations? closest to zero as possible?
Toe in on the front gives you stability at high speeds, at the cost of increased tire wear. SCCA guys tend to run for in on the front, and a little toe out in the rears, but rear toe out is more for RWD cars.
Do you have any auto cross or SCCA groups active near you? Your particular car is tough, because its an SUV. Higher center of gravity, and heavier. More weight generally means increased adjustments.
Unless you plan on doing a lot of high speed driving (100+ mph), I'd say factory settings for toe, front and rear.
Question...when you turn the wheel all the way left or right, how much does you castor angle shift?
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