sho1993green
New Member
Yeah I put her into a ditch about 5 years ago, I was swerving to miss a deer. If I fill her with water and run it I should be able to find the leak as well?
Oil light, and coolant issues
- Thread starter sho1993green
- Start date
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Racer X
SHO Pilot, Retired
Where in NY are you?
sho1993green
New Member
Oswego, just north of Syracuse.
JRA2000TL
The Complainer
Holy rust! That's what a Northern car is like underneath...no sir, I want no part in working on a Northern car, lol. I totally forgot about those radiator end tanks leaking. I also bet that is your issue. It's leaking right in that area. You might be able to rent a pressure tester kit from the parts store under the loan-a-tool program, so as long as you return it, it won't cost you anything.
sho1993green
New Member
I just wanted to know the steps I could take, my paychecks for the next few weeks are tied up with rent, utilities and other bills. Good thing I only work a few miles away.
pitaSHO
Why do I do this to myself?
Is there coolant crusted on the plastic side tank of the radiator? If so, remove the CCRM, coolant overflow bottle, and fan assembly. Then drain the coolant and disconnect the upper and lower radiator hoses. There are two brackets that hold the top to the core support. Each bracket is held in with two 10mm bolts. Unbolt the brackets and pull the top of the radiator toward the firewall. Then lift it out. Reverse for install. It should only take a couple of hours tops start to finish, unless the core support is tweeked and the new rad doesn't fit right. Or rust gets in the way.
I found it a lot easier with the alternator out of the way...
Cheers.
Chris K.
I found it a lot easier with the alternator out of the way...
Cheers.
Chris K.
sho1993green
New Member
So uhh... I checked the oil again today and it was still down about a quart. (Same as when I checked it a few days ago) So I walked down to the gas station and picked one up. The oil on the dipstick was DARK, so I need to change it asap. But I started the car, sitting at idle the oil light didn't come on. I let it run for about 15 minutes, still no oil light and no coolant leaking. I took it for a spin around the block and it got up to full temp, sitting between the O and R on normal. Parked it and kept it at idle again for another 5 minutes, still no red oil light and no sign of a leak... WTF?
My car would use aprox. 1/2 to 1 quart of oil between changes, from the day I bought it new. This is fairly acceptable usage. Change the oil and **** keep an eye on it. As mentioned, it would not hurt to check/replace the rod bearings. It is cheap peace of mind.
As for coolant leak, check under the car near the crank pulley, it may have a small leak out the bottom of the water pump which is burning off on the cat. This will leave no clues on the ground.
Just random thoughts.
As for coolant leak, check under the car near the crank pulley, it may have a small leak out the bottom of the water pump which is burning off on the cat. This will leave no clues on the ground.
Just random thoughts.
sho1993green
New Member
Yeah I've had the water pump go about 2 years ago, could smell the evaporated coolant in the wheel well.
sho1993green
New Member
New development, I was driving it around today and the temp gauge kept creeping upward. It hit the N on normal just before I got home and then the oil light started flickering again and when I parked and turned off the car I heard the coolant dumping out when I got out of the car. I popped the hood and it looks like its coming from some where below the coolant overflow tank. I opened the overflow and it was all the way to the top but was only about half full this morning. Seems like something is causing it to overheat, but where would it come out of when it does that?
93rev2sev
SHO Member
I'd use the "paper clip trick" to pull codes and ENSURE the fan is working (the fan should kick on when you turn on the ignition if the paperclip is in place).
If the fan works, I'd do an oil change and then I'd drain the coolant into a clean container and have a look at it. Also look at the radiator cap seal. It should not be all wavy and stretched out looking. I'd half expect to see evidence of a problem...either debris (waterpump failure) or oily residue (head gasket). Once drained of coolant, I'd refill with water, run the engine for a couple of minutes and drain again...into another clean bucket. This second fill/drain into bucket is an environmental step...AND will tell you if the system is clean. Once emptied again, keep the petcock (drain) open and refill with a garden hose. You will be able to refill it with the drain open since you can shoot water into the fill hole faster than it can drain out the petcock. Once refilled, start her up and keep it filled with the hose. All while the drain is open.
Once flushed for a few minutes (it should never really get up to temp since you're replacing hot water with cold water from the hose), shut off the engine and let the water drain out. Use some sort of strainer (I use paint strainers) to filter the coolant that you drained earlier and carefully pour it back in. You might have some left over. Keep it handy.
Start the car, make sure there are no leaks and let it idle up to temp. While it's idleing, keep the radiator cap off and keep topping off the system. You can help by squeezing the upper radiator hose repeatedly to "burp" it. Once you're satisfied no more coolant will fit, replace the radiator cap. Keep checking the temp and make sure the fan comes on. You might have to let it get quite hot by the temp gauge before the fans come on.
If it gets into "H" and the fans don't come on, let it cool for a while and replace the engine coolant temperature sensor (behind and below throttle body). Recheck fan operation.
If the fan works, I'd do an oil change and then I'd drain the coolant into a clean container and have a look at it. Also look at the radiator cap seal. It should not be all wavy and stretched out looking. I'd half expect to see evidence of a problem...either debris (waterpump failure) or oily residue (head gasket). Once drained of coolant, I'd refill with water, run the engine for a couple of minutes and drain again...into another clean bucket. This second fill/drain into bucket is an environmental step...AND will tell you if the system is clean. Once emptied again, keep the petcock (drain) open and refill with a garden hose. You will be able to refill it with the drain open since you can shoot water into the fill hole faster than it can drain out the petcock. Once refilled, start her up and keep it filled with the hose. All while the drain is open.
Once flushed for a few minutes (it should never really get up to temp since you're replacing hot water with cold water from the hose), shut off the engine and let the water drain out. Use some sort of strainer (I use paint strainers) to filter the coolant that you drained earlier and carefully pour it back in. You might have some left over. Keep it handy.
Start the car, make sure there are no leaks and let it idle up to temp. While it's idleing, keep the radiator cap off and keep topping off the system. You can help by squeezing the upper radiator hose repeatedly to "burp" it. Once you're satisfied no more coolant will fit, replace the radiator cap. Keep checking the temp and make sure the fan comes on. You might have to let it get quite hot by the temp gauge before the fans come on.
If it gets into "H" and the fans don't come on, let it cool for a while and replace the engine coolant temperature sensor (behind and below throttle body). Recheck fan operation.
Last edited:
sho1993green
New Member
The fan is indeed working, but I don't have a outside water hookup. (Cheap landlord) And my kitchen faucet is opposite of the driveway. Any chance the overheating is caused by a thermostat stuck closed?
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