Oil Leaking from Valve Cover Gaskets

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DeepPower

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O.K, thought I'd start a new thread here - my SHO is leaking oil from the valve cover gaskets which mixed with the brake fluid and helped cause the fire. These were replaced 1K miles ago by my mechanic but it seems not installed correctly. Can I re-use these?

Also, what is the best gasket sealant material I can use?

While replacing these, the intake plenum gaskets have to be removed, also replaced 1K miles ago. Can I reuse? What is the best gasket sealant material?

Thanks!

UPDATE: Not sure if the gaskets above were replaced 1K miles ago, but they were definitely replaced 9K miles ago.
 
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SHOdded

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BOTH VC gaskets? Wow. Typically it's just the rear bank where there is a danger of rolling the gasket. One workaround is to install headless bolts or studs to ease the valve cover back on, and another is a small dab of RTV in the troublesome corner to hold the gasket in place.

Are you sure there's no sludge in the engine and that the PCV system is operating correctly?
 

luigisho

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Black RTV is fine. here is the link to upper 60k write up with pics. You can just skip the valve shim stuff and look at the removal and reinstall info/pics. The gaskets should be reusable at that age unless they are damaged. If the intake gasket has the coating really flaked off you can use a spray gasket sealer like this (people also use some spray paints you can search that but the point is spray a tacky seal on the metal intake gaskets to get a good seal if needed. https://www.permatex.com/products/g...ts/permatex-high-tack-spray-a-gasket-sealant/

http://web.archive.org/web/20070518111449/http://www.shophoenixproject.com/upper60k/upper60k.htm

When you do the valve cover seals get all the old rtv out out of there clean all the mating surface and be aware that it is easy to have the rubber gasket move or roll a little and hard to see from the back so take your time. Tighten the valve cover bolts to snug and not real tight as they are made of very soft aluminum and will break easily as many of us have experienced. Removing a sheared off bolt from the rear head is a pain in the **** because of the tight working space and the angle back there. you can do this, just don't be a heavey handed tighter the better dummy like me
 

DeepPower

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BOTH VC gaskets? Wow. Typically it's just the rear bank where there is a danger of rolling the gasket. One workaround is to install headless bolts or studs to ease the valve cover back on, and another is a small dab of RTV in the troublesome corner to hold the gasket in place.


Well, I figure if I'm replacing one, replace them both because you buy them in pairs.

I assume that the RTV is added on the new gasket, and not on the outside of the valve cover?
 

SHOdded

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As referenced in the 60K link luigi provided, here is an excerpt of whereall to put the RTV:

13. Now replace the valve cover gasket and the plug well seals on the valve cover. When they are installed, put a bead of black RTV on the plug well seals. Let it dry for a couple minutes (while you're working on the next steps).

Step13a

Also put a bead of black RTV on these spots

Step13a1

Before replacing the valve cover, put some black RTV on the edges of each of the bolt holes and install the valve cover bolt seals. Then with the valve cover bolts NOT installed, replace the valve cover. Then install and tighten the 10 5mm Hex bolts to about 12 ft/lbs. Be careful not to break them, remember that's ONLY 12 ft/lbs.
 

luigisho

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No you have to look at the write up. It's been a while since I did my last one but I believe I put the rtv on the metal mating surface where the sealing surface of the valve cover meets the matching surface of the head. I followed the factory rtv stuff (removed old and replaced) which is only used in places where the sealing surface isn't really straight like the curved areas for the cams. Look at the shophoenix link I provided and check out the third picture from the bottom of the page. They use it on curvy corner spots. Get a little straight run to the corner and up a bit so that area seals properly.

Edit: Shodded beat me to it

Put the rtv on the head put the rubber valve cover seal in the groove at the bottom of the vc install carefully and the rubber seal above will meet the goop below and hopefully seal it real nice
 

DeepPower

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BTW so what is the consensus here about me re-using the existing Fel-Pro valve cover and intake manifold gaskets with 9K miles on them? I'd like to avoid paying $90+ for a new gasket set.
 

luigisho

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I would reuse them unless something looks too compromised like a rip or cut in the rubber gasket. I would look at the metal intake gasket and probably spray it just for good measure and reuse that as well. I would probably use the rtv around the spark plug tube gasket mating surfaces trick as well.
 

DeepPower

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My mechanic did some magic in loosening and then tightening the valve cover bolts, and now the leak in minimal.

But my adventure is not over yet! Back near the firewall I have a blown head gasket (photo is from directly below)! Leaking coolant and making white smoke from the engine compartment like there's a new Pope and engine misfires. So my next step is the BlueDevil Head Gasket Sealer.

BlownRearHeadGasket89SHO
 
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luigisho

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I'm usually skeptical of pour in sealants so please report back on how this product works for you. I've seen some reviews on amazon that look good but you never know how it works over time, so I'd be very interested if this is a good solution.
 

pjtoledo

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get a pressure tester so you can pressurize the cooling system with the engine off.
you may get lucky and find a pinhole leak in the heater lines, not the head gasket.
 

rubydist

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wow, that's out of the frying pan into the fire. sorry to hear. head gaskets are hard to find nowadays, so I hope the sealant works for you.
 

DeepPower

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Thanks to everyone, and I appreciate the sympathy :(.

I've asked around and I've never heard of a situation where Blue Devil Head Gasket Sealer has not worked. From what everyone has told me, it's important to follow the instructions EXACTLY. The engine must be completely cooled before adding the product (this is critical), and the product must be added SLOWLY, as in take a full minute to add the entire bottle.

It's still 88°F here in Texas so I will wait until 6am when it's supposed to be a cool 75°F. I will report results.
 

DeepPower

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Status update - after starting the cold engine, slowly poured the 16oz bottle of Blue Devil Head Gasket Sealer into the radiator. Topped off the radiator and the overflow bottle. Ran the car, at 10 minutes I got white smoke from the engine. At 20 minutes, the smoke was noticeably less. I gunned the engine and noticed that while it was running rough, it did not feel like a misfire. At 30 minutes I noticed water coming out of the overflow tube into a catch pan I placed there. I have a 180°F thermostat, using a laser temp gun I saw 193°F at the housing, dashboard gauge was at the M in NORMAL. Waited a few minutes, then shut the engine down. Soon after I shut the engine down I got a lot of steam out of the radiator cap. I put on some gloves and pulled the pressure relief valve to relive the pressure. I lost maybe 3/4 of a gallon.

Called the Blue Devil support line, who has told me to wait until the engine has cooled, then start it up. He told me the product works by temperature differential, so the engineer in me tells me it's impossible to clog up the coolant system. I was only able to put in half of what was in the catch pan into the radiator

When my laser told me the engine was at 133°F I started the car. Engine ran well, steam was barely noticeable. The dashboard temp gauge creeped up dangerously to just below the M, then fell back down to below the L (this is common from BD success stories). The gauge also jumped a lot which is a sign of low coolant. So I let it run for ten minutes then shut it off so I could wait for it to cool so I could add the rest of the runoff coolant.

30 minutes later I let the radiator pressure go with the pressure relief valve on the radiator cap, then I added almost all of the runoff coolant to the radiator and the overflow bottle. Started the car and idled for 15 minutes. Shut it off when the temp gauge got near the M. The steam from the head gasket leak is almost unnoticeable unless you are looking for it. The drip, which used to be one drop every 5 seconds, is now one drop every 20 seconds. No water from the tailpipes.

CONCLUSION SO FAR: Although incomplete, I tentatively call this a success. The car has not idled long enough for the product to completely work. However the car runs much better, the steam is barely noticeable. I'm burning a vacation day today so I can occasionally idle the car. Glad I have a 3-day weekend.

I do have the disadvantage of having to contend with the Texas heat, which will be in the 90's today. But at this stage, I tentatively call this a success. I expect the leak to be completely healed after enough idling.
 
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DeepPower

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UPDATE: I did something bad. With no steam coming from the engine, no leak, and no water coming from the tailpipe, I gunned the throttle. The leak & steam came back like I had done nothing.

Called the BD support line, it seems that after the 50 minute period OR when there are no more leaks, you must let the engine cool down completely. Do not gun the engine. BD fails to mention this. The cooling down sets off a chemical process that, in the presence of oxygen, finishes the hardening process in the leak.
 
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luigisho

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I assume you can try this treatment more than once? When I have underhood work and the engine is hot I use a box fan and some rope. tie the rope to the handle on top of the fan, angle it for best effect, and secure the rope to the hood. Cools that sucker down and cuts my wait time down plenty. Moooaaar fans = even better
 

DeepPower

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I assume you can try this treatment more than once? When I have underhood work and the engine is hot I use a box fan and some rope. tie the rope to the handle on top of the fan, angle it for best effect, and secure the rope to the hood. Cools that sucker down and cuts my wait time down plenty. Moooaaar fans = even better
Wish I thought of that, I have no fans, my SHO has been cooling for two hours and the thermostat housing shows 120°F! Meanwhile, outside it is 90°F.

I'd rather not put more BD in, I'll have to check with them to see if that's O.K.
 

DeepPower

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It looks like I have coolant leaking into the #1 cylinder. Blue Devil recommends removing that spark plug and running the car for the 50 minute product to allow the product to do its stuff.

Can anyone tell me, with the way the SHO plug timing works, will pulling the #1 plug also disable the #5 (or #4?) plug as well?
 
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