Oil in plug wells (95 ATX)

[NEUSHOER]

I have spring break this week and I was planning on changing my plugs and wires. I went to check the plug wells to see if there was oil in them and sure enough there was. I have been searching this subject for a few hours now and I found a step by step guide on the Phoenix SHO site. However this is for a MTX. Are the steps still the same? How long will it take me to change these head gaskets? And do I just need the gaskets or do i need the whole kit? Any help or suggestions will be greatly apprechiated. Thank you for the help.

 

[NWGRN94MTX]

I have spring break this week and I was planning on changing my plugs and wires. I went to check the plug wells to see if there was oil in them and sure enough there was. I have been searching this subject for a few hours now and I found a step by step guide on the Phoenix SHO site. However this is for a MTX. Are the steps still the same? How long will it take me to change these head gaskets? And do I just need the gaskets or do i need the whole kit? Any help or suggestions will be greatly appreciated. Thank you for the help.

It's the same ATX or MTX, You don't need to change the head gaskets, you only need to change the valve cover gaskets and the plug well seals, Since you have an ATX it has a 100K service instead of a 60K service that the MTX cars have. If you are over 100k or getting close, I would do the valve shim adjustment and you will have the "top" part of that maintenance done with.

 

[SHO M0nk3y]

On Phoenix SHO they comment in the differences if any. Upper stuff pretty much the same.

 

[shoteen95]

Should be almost exactly the same. I used the same step-by-step when I did mine almost 2 summers ago.

Since it's an ATX car you will have to deal with the EGR, but it's a couple bolts.

My valve cover gasket kit came with the two cover gaskets, and 6 plug well seal gaskets. When you say "the whole kit", I have no idea what you're talking about. What kit are you referring to that has more than the gaskets. Just get what you need to do the job.

I also bought an intake manifold gasket kit (it was a lot cheaper than the VC gaskets) because I ended up tearing my whole intake apart and cleaning it.

 

[NEUSHOER]

When I went to Advance Auto to ask how much the gaskets would cost they gave me the price of just the gaskets. And then they gave me the price of a kit which was like $430 which included some bolts and shit but that was for the head gaskets which I guess I dont have to replace. How hard and long will this take to replace the valve cover gaskets and well seals?

 

[artsho]

Here you go. http://home.earthlink.net/~rcm_automotive/index.html


$69.99- SHO 3.0L-3.2L Fel-Pro valve cover gasket/seal set-
Includes:
1- Front (left) Valve Cover Gasket
1- Rear (right) Valve Cover Gasket
6- Spark Plug well/tube Seals

 

[ohfosho]

the ATX can be a little trickier to get the rear valve cover on and off... as the engine and driveline is pushed a few inches further back to the firewall in the engine bay i have heard...and experienced.

you have to carfully work the cover around between the firewall and the cam chain when pulling and installing. it can be very tight. i suppose you could put a piece of wood on the oil pan and jack it up slightly to see it that makes it easier. you also have to be carefull that the gasket does not roll out on the firewall side of the rear valve cover... you need a mirror and light to see what your doing, or go by feel., be sure not to use loads of gasket maker... there will be just as much clumping off inside your engine as outside if you use too much, and you dont want that clogging the oiling system of the engine.

i used a very thin bead in the valve cover to hold and moreover seal the gasket, then put the gasket in the valve cover, and then put a very thin bead on the top of the heads. put a little extra where the gasket makes a turn.

yes the valve cover gasket set can be expensive if you go to some of the major parts stores. i paid $140 canadian from a Canadian tire right near me... i should have ordered from RCM as linked to above for $69 (US...im sure +shipping).

 

[jedhead]

the ATX can be a little trickier to get the rear valve cover on and off... as the engine and driveline is pushed a few inches further back to the firewall in the engine bay i have heard...and experienced.

you have to carfully work the cover around between the firewall and the cam chain when pulling and installing. it can be very tight. i suppose you could put a piece of wood on the oil pan and jack it up slightly to see it that makes it easier. you also have to be carefull that the gasket does not roll out on the firewall side of the rear valve cover... you need a mirror and light to see what your doing, or go by feel., be sure not to use loads of gasket maker... there will be just as much clumping off inside your engine as outside if you use too much, and you dont want that clogging the oiling system of the engine.

i used a very thin bead in the valve cover to hold and moreover seal the gasket, then put the gasket in the valve cover, and then put a very thin bead on the top of the heads. put a little extra where the gasket makes a turn.

yes the valve cover gasket set can be expensive if you go to some of the major parts stores. i paid $140 canadian from a Canadian tire right near me... i should have ordered from RCM as linked to above for $69 (US...im sure +shipping).

Actually the engine is moved forward away from the firewall on the ATX.

Bob

 

[NEUSHOER]

ohfosho, how long did it take you to do this project on your car? And how much experience do you have with working with engines?

 

[362104]

I had the original plugs in my 94 ATX. Be careful getting them out. Mine were a B*****

 

[JoesSHO]

I'd plan on about 3-4 hours at a comfortable pace for your first time. After that, usually a couple at most.

Don't overtighten the Intake Manifold or VC bolts when reassembling, and make sure you have the right tool for the VC bolts before you start tearing stuff apart. Anti-seize the new plugs before you put them in too.

It's not a hard job, just a somewhat tedious one.

 

[NEUSHOER]

For the record I have never taken an engine apart. But my father is well informed on engines and is telling me that it is more work than I think. However, I have replaced many parts on the car by myself such as almost every sensor, new exhaust, starters, plugs on other vehicals, alternators and some other stuff. Do you think with that experience I will be able to handle the job. No doubt I know my father has the tools to do it but should I attempt this alone? Or is it to big of a job?

 

[platoribs]

It is by no means too big a job for you to tackle. Just follow the Pheonix instructions carefully. When reassembling tie/hold/move the looms and other stuff out of the way between the firewall and engine to provide maximum space to reposition the rear bank VC w/o rolling the gasket. Then check it carefully with a mirror/light/feel to make sure you got it right before you button everything up and find a BIG leak after (PITA).

Deffinately clean out the snakes/plenums and replace the couplers if cracked/dryrotted with SHObros new kit.

Also be prepared if your engine has never been apart you may break a few VC bolts off in the head. Get some reverse drill bits and easy outs and carefully remove and replace. While you have the intake off take the opportunity to inspect and replace everything underneath that looks old/rusty/dryrotted/etc... ex. heater core tubes, radiator hoses, thermostat, engine temperature sensor, etc...

Make sure you get the correct firing order cause it's 1) not intuitive and 2) incorrectly published in some places. Search here for the *******.

You'll find it was easier than you thought after it's done, and it will be much easier the second time around.

Have fun and let us know how it comes out.

 

[93rev2sev]

Take the valve cover bolts OUT of the covers---. That will be about the most physycally demanding job...the rest is just being organized.

 

[NEUSHOER]

Alright Thanx alot guys Im going to order the parts tonight. Ill let you know how it turns out.

 

[Off Road SHO]

Take the valve cover bolts OUT of the covers---. ...

BUT, cover the exposed intake holes in the head first.

Tom

 

[ohfosho]

Actually the engine is moved forward away from the firewall on the ATX.

Bob

really? oh so it is harder on an MTX... ok, my bad. so what is the best way to get the back valve cover around the cam chain and firewall?

it took me a bit, a weekend i think (part time), because i pulled the intake apart and cleaned it right out (takes a good afternoon pulling that apart and spraying/brushing it out), replaced vacuum hoses, and spark plugs, and wires.

i takes a bit of time to pull the intake too, and depends what you are going to do with the throttle body... i weaseled the intake out, and left the throttle body attached where it was. most prefer to undo the coolant line, and linkage and pull it out.

 

[NEUSHOER]

Well I got the gaskets today and I am planning on doing it this weekend or next. Thanks everyone.

 

[luigisho]

BUT, cover the exposed intake holes in the head first.

Tom

Remember this. I lost a part down one of the holes that goes to the oil pan. Look in the corners for the holes and stuff a rag or something in there until you're ready to button it back up.

This is not a big engine work job. Be organized the first time and have some baggies and/or some masking tape you can write on to help remember where everything goes. Also, be careful with the aluminum bolts that thread into more aluminum. It's very easy to overtighten and shear the bolt off in the threads. 'Snug' not 'tight' is about as good as one might be able to explain reinstalling them.

One last thing. Try and clean out the sparkplug tubes before you remove the plugs. THe oil will drain into the cylinder -which isn't a big deal. All the dirt and sediment that has collected in there flowing with the oil can be.

 

[SHOBlu]

I found the 2 biggest problems are: 1) Removing the rear valve cover because the left rear corner hangs up on the fuel lines and is a tight fit getting over the upper bearing cap on the end of the camshaft 2) Installing the manifold alone. I'm not saying one person cannot do it, I've done it alone many times, its just a lot easier with another person. That way you can route vacume hoses and wires properly.

Use the proper plugs, wires, and don't mess up the firing order. If you forget how they are ordered you can look it up here. Other then that, the rest is pretty straight forward.

Good luck and have fun!