Occasional Stalling - Can not pull codes

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OldShoGuy

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New forum member, looks like a great forum with knowledgeable members, so here's my challenge.

92 MTX 113K miles. Purchased the car about 2K miles ago, knew it would need a clutch. Drove it home about 400 miles from purchase and not knowing any service history decided to replace serpentine belts, timing belt, and water pump. Replaced those myself (all belts had been changed in the past, looked like they had some time on them - maybe replaced at 60K?). Car ran fine after that, but after a few weeks had my first power failure. On the Insterstate at about 65 mph, just like you switched off the key. Car in gear, engine spinning, tach shows zero, CEL on. Coasted to the off ramp, tried to restart every few minutes. After about 15 minutes, restarted and ran great all the way home (about 100 miles). Had the clutch replaced. While on the lift, I see someone has painted 'fix me' on the underside of the trunk, so this car has frustrated someone. Gas tank shows signs of work (loose hose clamps) so I assume someone has replaced the fuel pump. Also the inertia switch has been removed and jumped out. Since then two more incidents like the first, except they were around town. Other than this problem, car runs great, good fuel economy, strong pull up to about 6K rpm. Slight surging at steady speed.

Went to shophoenixproject to learn about pulling codes. My smaller plug is different than the one shown - mine has a single round pin, not a receptacle as shown. Made a jumper to go from the single pin connector to the location as shown in the multipin connector. Turned on the key without starting and get just a steady CEL, like the jumper is not in place. Triple checked my jumper setup. Of course, I strongly suspect the Crank Position Sensor or the Cam Position Sensor, but I've read numerous posts recommending checking the codes first. Long post, but I wanted to give plenty of info up front. Any ideas about not getting the flashing light?
 

SHOZ123

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Your data link connector is not round and has 2 slots on the top and 4 on the bottom.

Data%20link%20connector%20GEN%202.jpg
 

OldShoGuy

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SHOZ123 said:
Your data link connector is not round and has 2 slots on the top and 4 on the bottom.

Data%20link%20connector%20GEN%202.jpg
Thanks for the info on that connector. The other connector that shows at www.shophoenixproject.com is the one I was referring to. (The one that you run the jumper over to from this connector). On their site it looks like a single socket (to the left in their picture), where mine is a single pin. Is that just a ground? Could I just ground 'Signal Return'?
 

OldShoGuy

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Yes I think that's what I'm doing. I have a photo (jpg) of the two connectors, but don't know how to include it in my reply.

No, do not have the Factory Repair CD, but will be downloading that today.
 

projectSHO89

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Phil,

That single connector plug next to the larger one is the Self Test Input (STI).

Just jumper it to the signal return pin in the larger connector to start the test.

Based on your symptoms, an intermittent CPS is high on the list of suspects.

BTW, welcome to the forum!

Steve
 

OldShoGuy

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Thanks for the encouragement. I have ordered a CPS from CincySHO and will replace that. As I mentioned, I have already replaced the timing belt and water pump, so I'm headed in to familiar territory. I'll be searching the forum for experience in the actual sensor replacement and adjustment.

Phil
 

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