Now I've dunnit!

[etc1006]

In an effort to find noises in the front. I decided to check the cups on the front of the strut rods. I started with the driver side. The rod itself looks like it is newer than the pass side. I had to use the heat wrench carefully to be able to break the nut loose. After all that I get the bushing off and it leaves the smaller part inside the cup! I check the edges of the cup and it looks like the bottom edge could use a weld... Now I gotta dig out the rest of that half of the bushing and get another one... Any ideas to make this easier? Ive got it up on ramps like Scott did to keep the suspension loaded.

 

[etc1006]

Well, a quick update. Yes this soon... The pass side when I pout the socket on it and gave it a try the whole rod moved. When I removed the socket there was a pop in the end I'm working on. Same thing Scott had... Damn, maybe I should have checked this side first. :banghd: How hard are the strut rods to re-do? Like I said the driver side has definetly been replaced.

 

[etc1006]

The verdict is in.

Here it is, driver side looks "okay" I'll run a weld on it. The pass side is done... After much burning rubber and impact gun I removed the nut to find the ****** is gone... Damn, I wonder if I can cannibalize a good cup out of another subfrome. I'm going to Dans tonight, I'll grab a s/f and bring it home and give it a try. I am really running short on $ til I start my new job and get this thing on the road... BTW, I found an alarming wire with no insulation. I traced it can any one else guess?

Pass side:

Driver side:

And the "mystery wire" for extra credit :

 

[Racer X]

IIRC, there's a Moog kit to repair that broken cup issue on the subframe. I don't recall the part number, though.

On the wire, it looks like the starter soleniod wire. If it is, and it shorts to ground, you're gonna have a world of fun on your hands. I'd take care of that, and soon.

 

[Ace]

IIRC, there's a Moog kit to repair that broken cup issue on the subframe. I don't recall the part number, though.

K8737..crossmember repair kit...runs i think around 70 bucks a side

 

[Ishodu]

Yeah it looks like the wire for activating the solenoid, I found mine starting to peel back also, I cleaned it up well and used shrink tube. If its the wire thats plugged on the solenoid its only hot when you have the key in the start position.

 

[etc1006]

I'm trying to stay away from dropping $150 for that right now (later) I'm gonna run a bead on the driverside. I got a subframe from Dan tonight and I'm going to pull it apart this weekend and see what I can do. I need to do the rear bushings on the pass side one anyway. I may even get lucky and be able to weld the pass side one as it looks pretty flush... Just have to get the rest of the bushings out of the cups... The wire goes from the solenoid to the alternator. Im gonna clean it up and tape it up for now. Glad I didn't accidentally grab that critter put it against the frame! Looks like someone kinda folded it up so it wouldn't hit anything.

 

[etc1006]

I tore apart the other subframe tonight. Man this one the cups are in awesome shape, too bad its an mtx one... Looks like they may have been welded better at one time. I'll clean those spots up tomorrow real good and see how good they are. Looks like I'll be doing a little welding on mine... I was able to take off the control arms and strut rods (man these were a ***** coming outta the hole in the frame...) Was able to save the bushings that I roasted in mine. Control arms and strut rods aren't side specfic correct? As far as the control arm bolt bushing to frame. Should it be lubed in any way? And the control arm/strut rod bushing.

 

[Racer X]

The lower control arms are in fact side specific. And you can use a SLO subframe in a pinch. I believe the SHO ATX and SLO subframes are the same.

 

[etc1006]

I definetly don't even want to consider the subframe replacement rout. Only if it ever breaks like what has happened to a few folks lately. I'm going out to play in the garage here soon and will figure out my attack plan. If the LCA's are side specific how come they aren't listed as so? At first glance last night I didn't see a difference... At least the bushings are practically new off this one.

 

[etc1006]

Nevermind me on the LCA thing. I do see the difference now. Too much beer whilst working on the subframe last night Ya gotta love the 8" pipe wrench with the 4' piece of 3/4" pipe to break those damn nuts!

 

[SHOdownTN]

Nevermind me on the LCA thing. I do see the difference now. Too much beer whilst working on the subframe last night Ya gotta love the 8" pipe wrench with the 4' piece of 3/4" pipe to break those damn nuts!

I put a pipe wrench on the strut rod, there is 2 flattened spots. Put the pipe wrench there and a peice of pipe for leverage. Then I used a socket and a long half inch ratchet to break the nuts loose. Works well......

You can keep the strut rod in one place like that. I marked mine so I could put it back the same way it came out and took it to a bench grinder with a wire brush, mine had a bit of rust. I put some grease on them but dunno if it's a good idea.

Also, gotta take the LCA bolt and nut off and drop that one end out so you can move it enuff to get the rod in and out. It seemed easier on mine without a jack or anything under the LCA. Only used it for a second or two while takeing the bolt out but after it was out of the way. Your strut is bolted in so it's not gonna fall out.

Just make sure you don't pull your axel apart. It's a pita to get them back together, had to take it out.


The new bushings and welding the cups helped some but I still got a slight pop under my feet wheen brakeing, doing the SFB next.

 

[etc1006]

As far as doing anything else to the car right now, I going to leave it in the garage... See my post on "Getting Bummed" I don't see much use in wasting time/money on it right now, if we don't know whats going to happen to the title. My wife and I have decided to find a very cheap beater. It needs a battery, not getting it now... The part that was hard coming out was the washer looking area on the backside of the front bushing part. It was just a tad too big to just go right through the oval hole in the frame to pull it back. These are red bushings on the backside. I take it they are the urethane ones. The front were black.
I didnt have room under the car to swing much extra than a 1/2" ratchet when I started this project. Thats why the heat wrench came into play.

 

[SHOdownTN]

As far as doing anything else to the car right now, I going to leave it in the garage... See my post on "Getting Bummed" I don't see much use in wasting time/money on it right now, if we don't know whats going to happen to the title. My wife and I have decided to find a very cheap beater. It needs a battery, not getting it now... The part that was hard coming out was the washer looking area on the backside of the front bushing part. It was just a tad too big to just go right through the oval hole in the frame to pull it back. These are red bushings on the backside. I take it they are the urethane ones. The front were black.
I didnt have room under the car to swing much extra than a 1/2" ratchet when I started this project. Thats why the heat wrench came into play.

oic, Didn't know.

 

[nkb93]

If that's an ATX, then the wire with the missing insulation connects the alternator output to the starter, which then feeds up to the fusebox. Mine was also missing an inch or two of insulation on this wire, but since it was a black wire, I didn't think too much of it (thought it was a ground). Found out during my tranny swap that indeed it was a POSITIVE conductor that carries at least 130 amps. Get it wrapped up right away.


Nate