Not quite sure what to title this one.

[SilSho95]

I was searching through some threads about starting problems I have with my 95 atx. Someone said that your camshaft position sensor can affect your engine when it comes to starting the car. While working on my a/c I noticed that there is some oil build up on the cps(from reading through older threads I take it that the camshaft oil seal needs to be replaced). My powersteering pump has some heavy oil buildup on it as well, I just replaced my valve cover gaskets and plug well seals,spark plugs and wires about 2000 miles ago. So here are my questions:Can I reuse my vc gaskets and plug seals(to replace the camshaft oil seals) or do I have to buy a new vc gasket set? How hard is it to replace the camshaft oil seals? Can the oil build up make the cps go bad?(I'm not getting any codes)My starting issues are pretty much the same as when there is oil in the plug wells but replacing the plug well seals did not cure it. I know that it could be my dis module or my coil pack,but I'm looking at the simplest explanations first(oil built up on the cps). I want to know if I can reuse the vc gaskets because I guess while I have the top of the engine off again I might as well check my valve shims(No I didn't do that last time I didn't have the money to rent the kit).

 

[Rockledge]

You don't need to take apart the top end to get at the CID sensor (a/k/a camshaft postion sensor), so don't sweat the valve cover and plug well gaskets.

 

[sdpatt]

Before going through the significant effort to replace those camshaft seals, CID sensor and CPS, why don't you tell us what the symptoms of your hard starting condition are?

 

[SilSho95]

It doesn't start right away it just trys to turn over for a couple of seconds until I let go, than it starts the second time(it always starts the second time I turn the ignition). Sometimes when I try to start it and it doesn't look like it's going to start and I let go of the ignition it sputters on(that's the only way I can describe it).

 

[sdpatt]

Try turning the ignition key to ON a couple of times without turning to START. Then turn the key to START. If the engine fires more quickly under this condition then the cause is likely a leaking fuel pump discharge check valve.

This is not a driveability problem, but only a starting difficulty. This is caused because the check valve allows the fuel line pressure to bleed off after the pump has been shut down. The primes before starting will restore the fuel line pressure before trying to crank the engine.

The solution is a new fuel pump. You may consider an upgrade to a 155 lph pump. You may also consider waiting until the existing pump wears out since you now know this is not a component failure and is not going to leave you stranded. It is only an annoyance.

 

[shojuan]

The solution is a new fuel pump. You may consider an upgrade to a 155 lph pump. You may also consider waiting until the existing pump wears out since you now know this is not a component failure and is not going to leave you stranded. It is only an annoyance.

I just want to point out that he might have a long time to wait and other problems can possibly pop up related to the fuel pump. I don't know if my fuel original fuel pump is typical or just a freak but it took several years and about 50,000 miles to die after is started misbehaving. First with the bad behavior you describe with the check valve. But later with extremely flakey behavior during hot weather. The first few years it was a summer only occurance. Then it became year round. And this last behavior I'm mentioning wasn't an annoyance, it was dangerous. Car stalling during low fuel use operation...Extreme difficulty to maintain a running condition when not on the gas under high load. When discussing the fuel pump with Nick Chrimes I came away with an impression of typical fuel pump failure modes that kept me from accociating the symptoms I was having with the slight evidence the fuel pump was presenting. I guess Nick didn't have experience with a fuel pump undergoing intermittant, yet slow and sure failure in the way mine was.

I'm not saying this is going to happen but the possibility is there and it's something to be aware of if taking the "live with it now, replace it when it dies" approach, which is fine, as long is it's simply an annoyance now. I would suggest replacing the fuel pump when it becomes convenient.


Also SilSHO, there's a small possibility of a less than perfect connection between fuel line and fuel filter which can cause the similar symptoms to a failed fuel pump internal check valve. In this case you would occasionally notice a faint smell of gas around the fuel filter area. If you ever detect a whiff of gas and it's not coming from the vapor recovery system in the engine bay then put your sniffer down by the fuel filter. For me this problem popped up about 3-6 months after I replaced my fuel pump over a year ago. I put a new Fram fuel filter on when I replaced my fuel pump...I still haven't addressed this but I think I'll be going back to the Motorcraft fuel filter like I used before.

 

[todras]

I've talked to many SHO owners about the starting issue. The check valve issue seems to be a common SHO thing. I'm just used to it now. I always turn to the accesory to prime the pump before starting. Starts right up the first time. It's annoying yes but cheaper than replacing the pump.