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I wasn’t sure what to do. I had them at 30 last time I got the 1.66 and 1.68. So I thought I would start lower 26-27. And when that didn’t seem to work I went back to what worked before. At the end I did 4 hot laps. My son would call me after everyone run..Dad go again! Lol! Guess I just got frustrated and kept going in circles. Really I should have iced it down again and played with tire pressure again or even tried the fabled left lane that’s usually worse.I'm surprised you were running those radials so high pressure. I think when I went my 11.08 I was running like 20psi guess if traction is there it's no issue.
Hmmm, I have no ebrake physically connected since I have the TCE wilwood kit...wonder if I just press the pedal down what would happen?just do that single click on the ebrake to disable the RDU, seems to work for a few times for those wanting to be risky lol
I like the idea of this ... but if I heard a snap I really wouldn’t be surprised. It really seems like a bad idea but only one way to find out...and no it’s not me lolHmmm, I have no ebrake physically connected since I have the tc wilwood kit...wonder if I just press the pedal down what would happen?
What would the snap likely be coming from?I like the idea of this ... but if I heard a snap I really wouldn’t be surprised. It really seems like a bad idea but only one way to find out...and no it’s not me lol
I don’t know I’m just thinking I would hear something break.....purely speculatingWhat would the snap likely be coming from?
So...if this is the case, then I wasn't aware, but does this mean, when the ebrake is "applied" (PCM sees ebrake switch activated), then it disables the RDU? Effectively making it FWD? That would be an interesting development as it would be a VERY easy apples-to-apples way to test out @High on Ethanol theory that these things would be faster in FWD-only mode. One run with ebrake depressed and in FWD mode (since I have no ebrake anyway, but would leave the regular brakes fully functional), another run in normal operation....I don’t know I’m just thinking I would hear something break.....purely speculating
So...if this is the case, then I wasn't aware, but does this mean, when the ebrake is "applied" (PCM sees ebrake switch activated), then it disables the RDU? Effectively making it FWD? That would be an interesting development as it would be a VERY easy apples-to-apples way to test out @High on Ethanol theory that these things would be faster in FWD-only mode. One run with ebrake depressed and in FWD mode (since I have no ebrake anyway, but would leave the regular brakes fully functional), another run in normal operation....
I'm not an AWD Taurus owner, but I do not think that running one of those in FWD has any chance of beating one in AWD. The weight transfer to the rear takes away a lot of the launch traction of the fronts. Nick Chrimes' SuperSHO, IIRC 485 WHP, couldn't even use full throttle in first and often second at the drags. (Quaife LSD.) To be sure, he had ~600 lb less holding down the front tires which weren't wider than 245's.So...if this is the case, then I wasn't aware, but does this mean, when the ebrake is "applied" (PCM sees ebrake switch activated), then it disables the RDU? Effectively making it FWD? That would be an interesting development as it would be a VERY easy apples-to-apples way to test out @High on Ethanol theory that these things would be faster in FWD-only mode. One run with ebrake depressed and in FWD mode (since I have no ebrake anyway, but would leave the regular brakes fully functional), another run in normal operation....
No one's been able to do it yet in the PCM/TCM or wherever that setting resides. And, to be clear, I personally can't buy into the theory that a FWD version will be faster than an AWD version...with 100% identical mods and setup. It's just a theory being postulated and worth verifying if it's possible. Just because I don't buy into doesn't mean I'm right...I could be wrong, but the math just doesn't add for me.I'm not an AWD Taurus owner, but I do not think that running one of those in FWD has any chance of beating one in AWD. The weight transfer to the rear takes away a lot of the launch traction of the fronts. Nick Chrimes' SuperSHO, IIRC 485 WHP, couldn't even use full throttle in first and often second at the drags. (Quaife LSD.) To be sure, he had ~600 lb less holding down the front tires which weren't wider than 245's.
And yes, Zach has made it into the 9's in a Gen II, ~1000 HP, stripped, a Quaife, and superwide drag tires, it's possible. I am open to learning that I am wrong.
If it's an electronic switch that disconnects the rears, why not program it into your ECU tune?
That's essentially what our AWD doesI've seen videos of 4X4 trucks launching in 4WD and then after they start going switch to 2WD so there will be less drivetrain loss so more power to the ground.
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I have the awd gauge on my cluster and I see it gives power to the rear during acceleration so its not cutting complete power to the rear, so we are still "technically" in awd mode.That's essentially what our AWD does
Btw, that AWD gauge, I've got it too, but wondering if there is a particular PID that is. I'd like to add it to my Torque Pro gauges if at all possible...I have the awd gauge on my cluster and I see it gives power to the rear during acceleration so its not cutting complete power to the rear, so we are still "technically" in awd mode.
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Switching to 2WD for burnout only but still launching in AWD may yield different results?
That's what GTR's do!Switching to 2WD for burnout only but still launching in AWD may yield different results?