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SHOdded

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Welcome to the forum, NL, glad to see ya here :) If you plan to tune it, definitely:
  1. R&R fluids: engine oil, transmission, PTU, RDU, coolant, brake. Use a low volatility full synthetic oil with the Motorcraft filter (FL500S?) for best results.
  2. Replace spark plugs (Motorcraft SP534 works fine). If tuning soon, hold off on that till tune time, so you can gap the plugs correctly.
  3. Check & tighten turbo-related hoses & clamps, small & large. Oem setup works itself loose sometimes, or the hose may even split.
  4. Check the intercooler for oil/crud accumulation; drain it as needed.
  5. Check intake piping for pooling oil, that's a sign the PCV system is not behaving. A light misting is normal.
  6. Check the COP boots for signs of oil. Sometimes there's a valve cover leak on the #3 cylinder (firewall side bank, drivermost side cylinder).
  7. Use quality fuel (high volume station, preferably top tier); best not to skimp here
Is that enough? :D

And, oh yeah, pull codes. Also go to owner.ford.com and check for outstanding recalls. Check TSBs for the 2013+ also, to get familiar with possible issues & available solutions.
http://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php/topic,3836.0.html
 

2011TAURUSSEL

2014 SHO LMS Stage 1 V10
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Go over the car with a fine tooth magnifying glass exterior and interior.

A Good detail day of it......Wash not sure of what part of the country but looks fairly clean and no snow.

Wash,

Claybar kit.......Meguiars, Mothers are common commercially available kits Get one extra bottle of quik detailer and go to town. Wash and s your Clay Barring use the detail spray to get detailed dirt that may not get removed at regular washing. KEEP ClayBar WET and break into 4 pieces (preferred 3 Minimum) If it falls to the ground THROW AWAY......that section Once on the ground any contaminants even though not visible could cause the same scratches you are trying to remove.

Clay Bar as a quick summary removes the Micro Contaminants from the paint that most people think washing gets but once you claybar once especially Black and White you will see how much it misses. After initial I recommend probably twice a year.....Spring....(Summer Coat) and Fall (Winter Coat.) YES There is such a thing as too much clay bar but twice should be O.K.

Prepare a day if you don't think you can get the while vehicle done in one day do sections. Logic: Claybar will remove the current layer of wax and polish. You don't want to totally remove that, so if you do sections you can keep the other areas protected. First time expect probably a full day and you will probably go through at least one full claybar for black maybe even two.

Two schools of thought on claybar. 1. Entire vehicle....Halfway done....(Some areas unprotected)
2. Half the vehicle (Entirely done) (All areas protected.)

YES Claybar can be used on Glass too.

Scratch/Swirl Remover,

Polish

paint sealant
Wax


Google............Chemical Guys YouTube.............the following subjects.

Claybar.......B Pillar scratch removal......polish, scratch/swirl removal, Porter Cable 7424 XP......jetseal.
 

SHOdded

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There are synthetic alternatives to clay (and very good at their jobs), but if you find stubborn spots, that's where a good claybar is invaluable. Of course, if you pre-dose the paint with products like TarX and IronX, you can get rid of major contaminants (organic matter, ferrous/metallic particles respectively) right off the bat.
 

darth maalhd

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I'm also new to the forum, glad it's a lot of info here. I plan on getting a mid to low 12s dd
 

Nextlevel

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Well I got under the hood today to check all the charge tube clamps. They were all tight. I did however find a vacuum hose off of the charge tube from the rear turbo. It goes to a three way valve right on top of the intake. What a difference it makes with it hooked back up. Anyone know what that hose/valve does? One is on side with boost other is on intake side. And I didn't see where the third one went.
 

Nextlevel

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That's it! What does that valve do that it goes to? This weekend I am going to do new spark plugs.
 

SHOdded

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That hose is connected to the wastegate solenoid, IIRC.
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