New to forums, ran EEC-IV tests

[HighBall]

Hi everyone, this is my first post. I just foun this forum lst week and it is unbelievable!

I ran the tests, and this is what I got...

KOEO
111
Separator pulse
176 HEGO sensor indicates system lean (LH).
212 IDM circuit failure / SPOUT circuit grounded.
214 CID circuit failure.
542 Fuel pump secondary circuit failure.
543 Fuel pump secondary circuit failure.

KOER
136 HEGO sensor indicates system lean (LH).
167 Insufficient throttle position change during dynamic response test.
225 Knock sensor (KS) not sensed during dynamic response test.
632 I don' think this one exists, but I ran the test twice and still got it???

On the KOER test I got three pulses, then I turned the wheel and hit the brake. Nothing happened for 30 seconds, then a single pulse on the CEL, so I revved it up to around 2500 RPM's, then released. Fast codes happened then the hard codes.


I'm very new to this, could someone help me please!

<small>[ October 22, 2003, 02:30 PM: Message edited by: HighBall ]</small>

 

[HighBall]

I want to take this one step at a time, but I guess I should have provided more info.

I have a 1994 ATX which I bought with 90,000 miles two years ago. It now has 120,000 miles, and I have no idea what kind of maintenance the person did before me.

I replaced the cracked serpentine belt, the timing belt tensioner before it almost jumped off track, the rear subframe bolts broke and snapped my steering rack, and my tranny went.

I always change my oil and air filter, but it's been almost 30,000 miles and I haven't really done anything because the car runs good, with the exception of occasional(2-3 times a week) startup problems. When the car warms up and I shut it off, sometime it takes 2-3 minutes of cranking to start it.

Sorry if so long.

 

[sdpatt]

Welcome. You may want visit the first link at the bottom of my signature block below to see where the separator pulse appears in the output sequence and to see when you "goose" the throttle in the KOER test (after the single flash). There should be a separator pulse only between the repeated hard faults and the repeated memory codes when the KOEO results are displayed. What are the symptoms that your engine is displaying?

 

[HighBall]

Thanks for the reply. I read the manual, reset the EEC, the drove the car for a night. I did everything right, no problem at all running the test.

My car wasn't having any problems, but After I reset the EEC, my car took 2 minutes to start, and the tachometer didn't work! All of this went away though and my car is running perfect again.

 

[AutoSHO]

That, along with the code for it, points to your CID (Cam sensor as its commonly referred to) being bad. It tells teh computer what stroke the #1 cylinder is on when starting, and provides a tach signal. It often fails the way yours has.

Before you replace it, its worth pulling the plug off, cleaning the contacts, and making sure the 2 mounting bolts are fairly tight (just snug). The CID is mounted on the end of the rear Cylinder head exhaust camshaft. It is just below and to the rear of the Cam sprocket where you were working when you replaced the timing belt. It has 4 wires running to it, I believe.

It can be seen in this picture, it is the black cylindrical piece just to the left of the timing cover.

<small>[ October 22, 2003, 02:53 PM: Message edited by: AutoSHO ]</small>

 

[sdpatt]

If pulling the CID sensor's connector and cleaning/checking the contacts does not change the starting and tachometer behavior and the 124 code, you might as well replace the sensor since there is nothing on it to service. After doing the work to remove the old one you should install a new one.

CID sensor: Wells F134, AutoZone, $32.99

You may also want to inspect the electrical connections to the DIS module on the passenger end of the intake manifold. Either of the two plugs must be secure and the contacts must be clean and dry to ensure a good connection.

The ground path to the DIS module is also key to its function. That path is through the braided ground strap that is landed under the 15mm nut on the top bolt of the rear, passenger side intake manifold bracket, then through the two 12mm bolts that secure the intake manifold balance tube to the front and rear plenums, then the four mounting bolts that hold the DIS module to the balance tube.

 

[HighBall]

this website is awesome I have learned alot about my sho in the past week.

Ok, I reset my codes and drove around. Here's the new tests.

KOEO
Hard Faults-
111 System pass

Memory codes-
176 HEGO sensor indicates system lean (LH).
543 Fuel pump secondary circuit failure.

KOER
136 HEGO sensor indicates system lean (LH).
167 Insufficient throttle position change during dynamic response test.
225 Knock sensor (KS) not sensed during dynamic response test.
632 What is this??????

I checked all the connections, my tach works, and my car runs fine. The only thing is that while I was driving my CE light came on for a few minutes then shut off, then came on again and shut off.

Even though my car seems to run fine, how do I get rid off those codes?

 

[Slo-Sho]

HighBall:

632 What is this??????

"632 (R) E4OD - Transmission Control Switch (TCS) should be cycled once between engine ID and Goose test"

Simply depress the o/d button located on the left side of the shift handle when time.

HighBall:
Even though my car seems to run fine, how do I get rid off those codes?

Disconnect the jumper while the codes are being displayed.

 

[HighBall]

Ok thanks,

As for the 632 code, my overdrive button doesn't work. It never has, and It still doesn't work even after my transmission went.

I know how to clear the codes, but I meant fix the problem to clear the codes permanently. headbang

 

[projectSHO89]

You only have about 10 seconds to 1) goose the engine, 2) crank the steering wheel, 3) hit the O/D switch, and 4) hit the brake.

It takes a bit of practive to get it right.

Steve

 

[sho 'nuff]

Its possible that the wire going to the button in the shifter is severed. Its pretty simple to take apart to check and then repair the wire if thats the case. I would do a search in this section for "O/D button" or something similar and you should be able to find either detailed instructions or a link to instructions.

 

[sdpatt]

It looks like your engine could benefit from a couple of new oxygen sensors. For the 3.2L in your car, you will need two of the Bosch 15716 from AutoZone for $49.00 each. The front sensor is the left bank sensor that is giving the error code and is not hard to access. Buying or borrowing an O2 sensor socket (from AutoZone) will make the job easier. The O2 sensor socket is mandatory for the rear sensor, along with a universal joint and about 9" of extensions. The electrical connector is reachable on the rear sensor by laying atop the engine an reaching an arm down between the engine and the firewall.

The 225 is not a problem unless you hear a great deal of pinging during normal driving. The 225 indicates that the knock sensor did not detect a knock during the test. There may not have been any knock to detect.

The other codes are test procedure related (except fot the non-functional OD switch).

 

[projectSHO89]

sdpatt:

The 225 is not a problem unless you hear a great deal of pinging during normal driving. The 225 indicates that the knock sensor did not detect a knock during the test. There may not have been any knock to detect.

Since he missed the goose portion of the test, there indeed would have been no knock to detect.

Practice the testing procedure!

Steve

 

[HighBall]

projectSHO89:
You only have about 10 seconds to 1) goose the engine, 2) crank the steering wheel, 3) hit the O/D switch, and 4) hit the brake.

It takes a bit of practive to get it right.

Steve

Ok, I'm a little confused now, these are the directions I followed, after hooking everything up....
4. Make sure vehicle is safe to run and start engine.

5. Engine I.D. should be output.

6. Step on brake and turn steering wheel 1/4 turn.
If the vehicle has an overdrive cancel switch, push it.

7. If a "Goose" pulse is received, move throttle quickly 1/2 way down and release.

8. Fast Codes are output (ignore).

9. Read codes.

Are you saying that I should do nothing after the engine id, and wait for the goose test, because I thought I did everything correct??

I'm going to replace the O2 sensors also.

 

[projectSHO89]

All four of the above actions are to be done AFTER receiving the blink for the dynamic response test (goose test).

It appears that you followed the test sequence posted at the dalidesign site.

Try the procedure at SHOTimes instead. It was written specifically for the SHO's version of EEC firmware. It is as follows:

KOER Test
Set up as mentioned above, but start the car and run it at 2000 rpm for a couple of minutes. This thoroughly warms up the oxygen sensors. Shut down, jumper the STI and Signal Return pins, and immediately restart the car. The KOER test will begin. During this test these things will happen:
You will get the engine ID code on the Check Engine light (3 pulses for 6 cylinders).
The EEC will try to get its sensors to go to the extremes of their ranges. The car will run very poorly at times during this portion of the test. It lasts for 6 to 20 seconds.
The motor will smooth out and idle. You will see a single flash of the Check Engine light.
After this flash, you have 10 seconds to turn the wheel both ways, hit the brake, and snap the throttle wide open, enough to get the engine above 2000 RPM, release the throttle, and let the engine return to idle. This is called the "goose test". If you have an automatic, you should also turn the overdrive on and off during this phase of the test.


Steve

<small>[ October 23, 2003, 03:32 PM: Message edited by: projectSHO89 ]</small>

 

[bradman]

FYI - Bosch 15716 sensor is $40.82 each from www.fordpartstore.com with free shipping on orders over fifty bucks.