new motor mounts..vibration

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oldyak

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I just had new front and rear motor mounts installed on my 1989 SHO.
The front mount is a reinforced unit purchased from SHO Source.
I now feel engine vibration over 3000 rpm...
Is this normal?
 

sperold

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No.
Do you feel it even when you are in neutral, standing still, with the engine at 3000 rpm?
 

frosho

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Yes, it is normal. The extra stiffness of the reinforced mount allows more engine vibrations to transmit to the passenger compartment. It's nothing to worry about.
 

sperold

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There are lots of little gadgets (torque limiter, etc) that get removed to install the mounts. Make sure everything got reinstalled. This is a long shot.
The nice thing about SHO's is there isn't too much vibration to begin with.
 

DrivinFast

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I would stay away from re-inforced mounts unless you like all of that extra vibration and noise.. The originals had some play in there to reduce all of that engine vibration.
 

Vnuk1

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I reinforced mine with 4-2" Grade 8 bolts both front and rear mounts and I have some vibration now as well should be nothing to worry about I kinda like it...
 

frosho

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I would stay away from re-inforced mounts unless you like all of that extra vibration and noise.. The originals had some play in there to reduce all of that engine vibration.

You're ignoring all the benefits of reinforcement. Throttle response is much better, shifting is easier, they won't break (unless you try to break them), they reduce drivetrain shudder, etc. etc...

The advantages of reinforced mounts far outweigh the disadvantages, IMO. I will never use a stock mount again.
 

DrivinFast

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You're ignoring all the benefits of reinforcement. Throttle response is much better, shifting is easier, they won't break (unless you try to break them), they reduce drivetrain shudder, etc. etc...

The advantages of reinforced mounts far outweigh the disadvantages, IMO. I will never use a stock mount again.

True but a 100% reinforced mount has vibration that most people wont like to deal with.
 

Jh8990

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You're ignoring all the benefits of reinforcement. Throttle response is much better, shifting is easier, they won't break (unless you try to break them), they reduce drivetrain shudder, etc. etc...

The advantages of reinforced mounts far outweigh the disadvantages, IMO. I will never use a stock mount again.

wow all that just from reinforced motor mounts? (I always wondered why they cost alot)
 

oldyak

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I just wanted mounts that I wouldn't need to replace for a while....
I guess I will have to live with it.
As to the 'sand in the *****' comment....This car was a 3 series killer WITHOUT all the vibration!!!
These mounts may be O.K. for track day but for a daily driver they really SUCK!
I feels as though the engine is bolted to the frame!!!!
All this for a measly $165.00 that I could have spent on other much needed items...
Now I have a car that vibrates like an old Triumph!
What a deal!!!
If anyone out 'there' reads this and doesn't drive a 'track car'
Go with the stock mount!!!
 
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shopartsnw

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To summarize the issue and diffuse the thread a bit.

Yes, the reinforced mount transmits more vibration into the car - that is normal.

Yes, some people enjoy the stiffer mount and some performance benefits from the reinforced mount

Yes, some people hate the vibration in the car, and we really do not want unhappy people.

Unfortunately, new stock front MTX mounts are no longer available, and rebuilt mounts are the only thing we can offer. We are doing the best we can with what we have.

Mike
 

SHObill

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stock frt & rear SHO mounts are a 'bucket & horseshoe' design utilizing a urethane bond to hold them together. Most failures occur when the bond between the 2 pieces fail from corrosion &/or extreme twisting. The mount MUST twist to absorb shock & not break other components. Most stock mounts I have seen have very little urethane covering the top of the 'horseshoe. Its not really needed as the bond is designed to be between them. BUT! when you re-enforce a mount by compressing it & replacing the small limit pin with a larger bolt or tube, you may now have a metal to metal condition causing NVH! A 3-5 mm piece of firm rubber should be placed between the new limit pin & the top of the 'horseshoe' to avoid this! The 'horseshoe' must be isolated from the bucket. You just want to control the twist & limit its lift. The best & easiest way is to bolt them through with 2 bolts in clearance holes & thick (15mm) rubber bushings under washers.
DSCN0654
 

sperold

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Has anyone come up with a better mount? One that is conventional and uses a typical pin type connector, that can still be purchased.
I see a lot of posts of people putting different subframes in these cars, have any of these people solved this mount issue?
Any pictures?
If someone came up with a mount for a hot-rod that looked like this, his friends would deny knowing him!
 

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