I just bought a '94 SHO (cheap - because it didn't run!) Well, I'm not having any luck! I've got fuel pressure, good spark, good compression, and no codes - except 111. From reading other posts and replies, I figured it must be the CPS. I just changed it and gapped it at .03 and still nothing. It cranks but no pop. Please Help
New CPS and my sho no go!
- Thread starter ChrisS
- Start date
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89 black SHO mtx
SHO Member
it could be the cam sensor on the rear bank thats causing the no start. also does the tach move when you try to start it? are the injectors firing? did you check the compression on all cylinders or just 1? with it not showing any codes the ecm could be bad as well. do a search on the cam and crank sensors to find out how to test them rangerj posted a test procedure for them a few days ago.
Thanks for the reply 89 SHO! I tested spark and compression on the 3 forward cylinders. I don't know how to tell if the injector's are firing. I can't quite seem to find the cam sensor on the rear bank either - but i'll do the search and let you know.
Just installed a new cam position sensor - still nothing - i can't believe this - gas, spark, compression and no codes.... what about timing?...the timing belt is as tight as it can be... does anyone know if it still could have jumped? and if it did, how can i test for it?
SHO--ripper
928 Euro
Chris S sdpatt posted a pic a few weeks ago. It show exactly where the sensor is located. What part of CT are you from?
sdpatt
Sr. SHO Engr.
If you've got spark on the front three plugs then you have spark on the back three also. If you have spark, the CPS has to be functioning. If their is no backfiring then the CID (cam) sensor is apparently working too. If you have spark and no fire then you must not have any fuel to combust. Check for fuel.
Does the fuel pump run for 1.5 seconds when you turn the ignition key to ON? If not it is either the pump or the integrated control relay module (ICM). When you turn the key to ON, do you hear a "click" from the ICM? If not, the ICM is suspect. if you hear a click and no pump then the pump is suspect.
Does the fuel pump run for 1.5 seconds when you turn the ignition key to ON? If not it is either the pump or the integrated control relay module (ICM). When you turn the key to ON, do you hear a "click" from the ICM? If not, the ICM is suspect. if you hear a click and no pump then the pump is suspect.
sdpatt
Sr. SHO Engr.
If you've got spark on the front three plugs then you have spark on the back three also. If you have spark, the CPS has to be functioning. If their is no backfiring then the CID (cam) sensor is apparently working too. If you have spark and no fire then you must not have any fuel to combust. Check for fuel.
Does the fuel pump run for 1.5 seconds when you turn the ignition key to ON? If not it is either the pump or the integrated control relay module (ICM). When you turn the key to ON, do you hear a "click" from the ICM? If not, the ICM is suspect. If you hear a click and no pump then the pump is suspect.
Does the fuel pump run for 1.5 seconds when you turn the ignition key to ON? If not it is either the pump or the integrated control relay module (ICM). When you turn the key to ON, do you hear a "click" from the ICM? If not, the ICM is suspect. If you hear a click and no pump then the pump is suspect.
Wow, this is great... I'm from Hanover,Ct SHO Ripper - It's off of route 97... sdpatt - the fuel pump does run for 1.5 secs when the key is on, and if I don't push the clutch in, I can hear a click when I turn the key over from what I guess is the ICM (module above the fan?) (I'm new at this - but learning! your replies are keeping me going!) I want to check the timing now... I set the two cam pulley marks in line with the marks from behind... does anyone know what I look for on the crank to know where it should be at this point?
89 black SHO mtx
SHO Member
to check the injectors you will have to pull the intake off. after that you can get to the injector harness real easy. all you need is a noid light and you have to unplug ALL the injectors at the same time. plug in the noid light to the harness and turn the engine over and see if it flashes. then go to the next and so on and so on. while you have the intake off you can check the compression on the rear bank as well. by the way are the spark plugs soaked with fuel?? also you could check the firing order on the coil pack some one could have reversed it. i don't have any of my resources here so i can't help to much on the firing order but you can look through previous post to find it. good luck and let us know what you find and what happens
89 black SHO mtx
SHO Member
just a stupid question but i have to ask. have you checked all the fuses and the fusible links? i have seen cars come in the shop and people swear that they have checked all the fuses and everything and pop the cover and a fuse( usually the fuel pump) ias missing. like i said a stupid question but it never huirts to ask
rangerj
Active Member
Chris,
Before you remove the intake you can determine if the injectors are opening and closing by holding a screwdriver to the injector with the other end to your ear while someone ( a mechanics lovely assistant) cranks the engine.
You will hear the "clicking" of the injector opening and closing. This tells you two things, one the injector is working electrically, and two the injector is working mechanically. It will not tell you whether or not the injector is clogged or dirty, ect.
The condition you describe would mean that all of your injectors have completely failed. The odds of this happening are astronomical. I would put this very low on my list of suspected causes.
Go back several days and read my post to Betty Davis on the tests of the EEC components. If you keep guessing and replacing sensors, and still not solving the problem, you will get frustrated and your frustration will have cost you a lot of money! Do the diagnostics, please. Start by making sure that all grounds have good clean connections.
rangerj
Before you remove the intake you can determine if the injectors are opening and closing by holding a screwdriver to the injector with the other end to your ear while someone ( a mechanics lovely assistant) cranks the engine.
You will hear the "clicking" of the injector opening and closing. This tells you two things, one the injector is working electrically, and two the injector is working mechanically. It will not tell you whether or not the injector is clogged or dirty, ect.
The condition you describe would mean that all of your injectors have completely failed. The odds of this happening are astronomical. I would put this very low on my list of suspected causes.
Go back several days and read my post to Betty Davis on the tests of the EEC components. If you keep guessing and replacing sensors, and still not solving the problem, you will get frustrated and your frustration will have cost you a lot of money! Do the diagnostics, please. Start by making sure that all grounds have good clean connections.
rangerjThanks everybody - hey FAST4DR - great pics - thank you! I think my timing jumped! My belt doesn't have any marks on it (even cleaned it), but it looks like when the punch marks on the cam pulleys are lined up with their marks...my crank pulley's punch mark is at 3 o'clock...and yours looks like it's at around 5 o'clock... I'm off to get a new belt... I'll let you know. --and thanks for the tip on the injectors rangerj...I'll test them after I know the timings right... but I think they're working because you can smell the gas from the exhaust after attempting to start it. I'll be in touch...
sdpatt
Sr. SHO Engr.
If you've got spark on the front three plugs then you have spark on the back three also. If you have spark, the CPS has to be functioning. If their is no backfiring then the CID (cam) sensor is apparently working too. If you have spark and no fire then you must not have any fuel to combust. Check for fuel.
Does the fuel pump run for 1.5 seconds when you turn the ignition key to ON? If not it is either the pump or the integrated control relay module (ICM). When you turn the key to ON, do you hear a "click" from the ICM? If not, the ICM is suspect. If you hear a click and no pump then the pump is suspect.
Does the fuel pump run for 1.5 seconds when you turn the ignition key to ON? If not it is either the pump or the integrated control relay module (ICM). When you turn the key to ON, do you hear a "click" from the ICM? If not, the ICM is suspect. If you hear a click and no pump then the pump is suspect.
Modemagic
New Member
Let me make sure I have this straight... You had/have spark, compression, and fuel but it wasn't starting? The timing belt was out of alignment and when ya put it back in time it fired off and works? VERY interesting... I'll have to add this to my list of things. Maybe this is what could be wrong with my junk motor in my good SHO
Maybe this is what could be wrong with my junk motor in my good SHO projectSHO89
SHOless In St L
What, you never got thing going?
Steve
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