new clutch installed wrong?

[rktmn]

I just finished installing my 3rd clutch in my SHO. First installation went perfectly and the clutch lasted about 7 years with no problems. The second clutch only lasted one year, and it was my fault. The steel sleeve that goes over the transmission quill was loose and it kept the clutch from engaging completely. It destroyed the clutch and the steel liner on my Fidanza flywheel.

I just installed a new clutch, with a new cable, throwout bearing and a new liner for the Fidanza. The clutch cable has very little tension and will not allow the transmission to engage any gear. I changed the clutch pedal, but it still does not disengage. I can access the gears with the engine turned off.

I used the throwout bearing without the steel liner. The transmission quill was in good shape. This throwout bearing has the smaller diameter to be used without the steel liner.

I can feel the spring tension of the clutch to be very light. I tried taking up the slack on cable by pulling up on the pedal, but it does not seem to be tight
enough.

If I force the cable takeup on the pedal, it will slip of rachet and loosen up again. I have 2 different pedals which I have tried, but they both slip and they loose the tension on the cable.

I don't thinks the clutch installation was done incorrectly. I used a torque wrench on all the bolts, cleaned up everything well, used the alignment tool.

Any ideas as to what is going on?

Jose

 

[sperold]

Could the disc be in backwards.
It has happened to other people and the symptoms sound similar.

 

[Mr95Gl]

What brand Clutch/PP did you install?

 

[jayro]

If the clutch cable has very little tention on it, it sounds like it is something with the adjustment. I know you said that you pulled up on the pedal, but it didn't take up the slack. I have read that some clutch cables are long enough that the adjuster on the pedal cannot make up the slack, and that the cable needs to be manually shimmed where it goes through the bushing on the top of the trans. Maybe something worth trying prior to pulling the clutch out agian.

 

[shopartsnw]

Jose,

There is a bushing on the top of the transmission that holds the clutch cable. The factory bushing can separate into two pieces, and I have seen people lose the smaller section that goes in the center. The part gets lost during the clutch installation. If you don't have a good bushing, the clutch cable will pull through and you will not be able to disengage the clutch. It will act exactly like your symptoms.

Check your bushing. It should be plastic both on the outside and on the face where the clutch cable mounts. If the clutch cable is seating in rubber instead of plastic, you lost half the bushing. You can either find the other half or buy a solid one piece design we sell on SHOsource.com

I really hope this is the issue because it is easier to replace or fix the bushing than to chase an issue in the clutch or transmission.

Mike

 

[jimtash]

Thinking bushing as well. By far the most important item that ensures proper operation of the clutch mechanism is the bushing. They are still available from Ford.

 

[rktmn]

The bushing by the pedal was destroyed so I replaced that, and the connection at the transmission is fine.

I believe that I may have installed the clutch plate backwards, although it seemed to fit in only one of the sides.

I installed a South Bend Stage 3, and I placed the red side of the lining facing the flywheel.

Jose

 

[jayro]

The bushing by the pedal was destroyed so I replaced that, and the connection at the transmission is fine.

I believe that I may have installed the clutch plate backwards, although it seemed to fit in only one of the sides.

I installed a South Bend Stage 3, and I placed the red side of the lining facing the flywheel.

Jose

You have a PM sir. Did you look on the clutch plate for a stamping? My SB stage 3 had a stamping saying "Engine Side" or something to that effect. I too am having similar issues with my SB Stage 3.

 

[shotime1994]

Bad clutch if I had to guess. Went threw that already.

 

[jayro]

Bad clutch if I had to guess. Went threw that already.

Did your PP look like there was anything wrong with it? Visually nothing jumped out at me when I pulled mine back out. It's on its way back for inspection as we speak.

 

[shotime1994]

Did your PP look like there was anything wrong with it? Visually nothing jumped out at me when I pulled mine back out. It's on its way back for inspection as we speak.

No the pp looked ok. Swapped out pp and disc and was on my way.

 

[jayro]

No the pp looked ok. Swapped out pp and disc and was on my way.

PM sent

 

[AREA 91]

I just finished installing my 3rd clutch in my SHO. First installation went perfectly and the clutch lasted about 7 years with no problems. The second clutch only lasted one year, and it was my fault. The steel sleeve that goes over the transmission quill was loose and it kept the clutch from engaging completely. It destroyed the clutch and the steel liner on my Fidanza flywheel.

I just installed a new clutch, with a new cable, throwout bearing and a new liner for the Fidanza. The clutch cable has very little tension and will not allow the transmission to engage any gear. I changed the clutch pedal, but it still does not disengage. I can access the gears with the engine turned off.

I used the throwout bearing without the steel liner. The transmission quill was in good shape. This throwout bearing has the smaller diameter to be used without the steel liner.

I can feel the spring tension of the clutch to be very light. I tried taking up the slack on cable by pulling up on the pedal, but it does not seem to be tight
enough.

If I force the cable takeup on the pedal, it will slip of rachet and loosen up again. I have 2 different pedals which I have tried, but they both slip and they loose the tension on the cable.

I don't thinks the clutch installation was done incorrectly. I used a torque wrench on all the bolts, cleaned up everything well, used the alignment tool.

Any ideas as to what is going on?

Jose

That is a bad move with the TOB!

 

[rktmn]

Well the original setup does not use the steel liner. The steel liner is a repair for the damaged aluminum quill.

The clutch came with the smaller diameter TOB. The quill in my transmission was not damaged at all, so I decided to use it.

The strange part of what is going on seems to be the clutch pedal. The ratchet system seems not to be working correctly to keep the cable at the correct tension. However, I replaced the pedal and it does the same thing with the other pedal. I pull up on the pedal, and it does not tighten the cable enough to disengage the clutch. I can take up more slack on the cable by moving the lever on the transmission further back, but when I release the lever, and actuate the pedal, the ratchet releases the tension.

The original pedal was working perfectly before the clutch swap, and the second pedal I installed is doing the same thing as the original. That seems to eliminate the pedals as the culprit, but it the symptoms seem to be due to the pedals.

Jose

 

[Ishodu]

Is the spring holding the little pawl down on the gear on the top of the pedal? Also is the spring attached inside the body of the clutch pedal shaft? You can also try pushing the blue gear while holding up on the clutch pedal to manually tension the cable if the main spring is not attached.

 

[TimboSHO]

Are you sure the new clutch cable is not slightly too long? Have you tried putting the old cable back in, or did you compare lengths when you had them both out? If the bushing is fine on the trans where the cable goes in, I suspect the cable may be to blame.....

 

[rktmn]

I installed the cable while the old clutch was still in, and it worked perfectly with it. The old clutch went out several months later, so the cable is still practically new.

Like I said, I have 2 different pedals. Both of them show the same symptom when I swapped them. I am going to swap the pedal again tomorrow. I want to try everything possible before I take the clutch out again.

Thank you all for the support.

Jose

 

[sperold]

The only other thing I can think of is that snout on the tranny is aluminum, and maybe it takes some kind of special care or preparation to get the TOB to slide on it well. Aluminum has some odd properties and seems to gall or "dig-in" easily when something slides on it.
Maybe the original surface of the aluminum was anodized and now that is gone.
Not saying this is the answer, but you might want the other TOB set-up handy in case nothing else shows up to be the cause of the problem.
Just a thought

 

[rktmn]

Well, if I can't fix it from the outside, I am going to have to go in again, but the thought of it is bumming out completely.

Changing the TOB might be the answer.

Jose

 

[AREA 91]

Time for the later style TOB.