New clutch, Ceramic TOB, hard to shift

[Moneypit]

I just had My new Ford clutch and a SHOnut ceramic TOB installed and it is very hard to shift. Shifting up to 4k is not a problem but anything over that you have to force it in to gear very hard. I pulled up on the pedal with it in first to see if there was any slack but that didn't work, Also if feels like it doesn't engage until most of the way out... Anyone got any ideas?

 

[Ishodu]

Check the cable for slack under the hood at the release arm. My auto adjuster is no longer auto and wouldn't take up the slack in the cable. I have to push the plastic rack of gears up behind the clutch pedal to get the slack out.

 

[AutoSHO]

Did they change the transmission fluid? That makes a big difference in how the car shifts.

 

[Moneypit]

Yes, Sergio did the work and put the drain plug in. I have no doubt he did everything correctly. He's done all my work and my brothers work. i'm now wondering about the slack in the line....

 

[NotSoSlowSHO]

Did they change the transmission fluid? That makes a big difference in how the car shifts.

And what kind of fluid was used? These things are picky

 

[Moneypit]

i don't know what kind of flush was used, I'll call him in the morning.. Is there a "break in" period for the clutch and/or TOB? I'm all ears. I can't get shifted by the time it drops back below 4k!!!!

 

[NotSoSlowSHO]

Yes, there is a break-in period for a fresh disc.

It wouldnt effect shifting though.

 

[Moneypit]

Check the cable for slack under the hood at the release arm. My auto adjuster is no longer auto and wouldn't take up the slack in the cable. I have to push the plastic rack of gears up behind the clutch pedal to get the slack out.

I can't see the plastic gears . Where exactly are they? How many times am i suppose to push it?

 

[92ShoOff]

Having same problems here man. Got the ceramic TOB installed with my Fibertuff 9-puck disc and HD pressure plate and I have a hard time shifting into 2nd when WOT. My clutch also catches with the clutch pedal almost all the way out. I still can't figure out what my problem is, but I'm sure it's somewhere in the clutch cable/adjuster. My butt is probably going to end up paying for $70/hr to fix the damn problem because I'm tired of messing with it. And by the way, the clutch cable is $175.00 from Motorcraft if you end up needing one. Lol. Great, huh?

 

[masho95]

I just had My new Ford clutch and a SHOnut ceramic TOB installed and it is very hard to shift. Shifting up to 4k is not a problem but anything over that you have to force it in to gear very hard. I pulled up on the pedal with it in first to see if there was any slack but that didn't work, Also if feels like it doesn't engage until most of the way out... Anyone got any ideas?

If you can't adjust the clutch cable, I'd put my money on a bad PP/disc. I wouldn't never put an OEM PP/disc back in my car.

 

[Bizzy]

I would, and did in fact. There is also no real break in period needed for the stock disk given it's organic surface. People tend to believe that there is one but in all honesty it's not needed. The non-stock kits, like the 9 puck, it is suggested that you give it a good 500 miles of normal every day driving before romping on it, I gave mine 1000 miles of both highway and city driving. Guess it helped that I drove from upstate NY to MI for the highway miles.

Anyway, it sounds to me like you're having problems with the PP section of the kit. If it was just installed I personally would take it back to whomever did the install and tell them you're having some issues. Maybe they'll have some suggestions on what can be done to solve them. It could be something very simple.

Do keep in mind that there have been some issues with Ford units that have been remanufactured here in the recent past. Mostly with the disk if I remember correctly, but you never know.

 

[NotSoSlowSHO]

No break in period?

I feel that there aught to be. Just like "bedding" a set of brake pads to new rotors.

Fresh surfaces on both sides, and they have to wear in to match perfectly.

IMO

 

[Moneypit]

Well we adjusted the cable and it seems to grab sooner but I still can't shift fast over 4k Were going to try some synchromesh fluid tomorrow and see what happens, after that i'll probably just run it off a bridge.

 

[AutoSHO]

And by the way, the clutch cable is $175.00 from Motorcraft if you end up needing one. Lol. Great, huh?

And its about $20 from Rock Auto.

FWIW, I put regular, Valvoline organic fluid in my car, and I practically couldn't shift it fast at higher RPMs. Drained that out and put in some valvoline Maxlife and the shifting improved dramatically. I will end up driaining all that out and putting some M1 ATF or Redline D4ATF in soon.

 

[Bizzy]

No break in period?

I feel that there aught to be. Just like "bedding" a set of brake pads to new rotors.

Fresh surfaces on both sides, and they have to wear in to match perfectly.

IMO

Nope, not with a stock organic clutch kit. Ask Mark Nunnally for his opinion.

 

[Moneypit]

When you push in the clutch and it feels like it doesn't disengage for a split second would that be from the same problem as not being able to shift fast over 4k? Sergio and I are going to put in the synchromesh tranny fluid tomorrow. I will update and let everyone know the verdict....

 

[Bizzy]

When you push in the clutch and it feels like it doesn't disengage for a split second would that be from the same problem as not being able to shift fast over 4k? Sergio and I are going to put in the synchromesh tranny fluid tomorrow. I will update and let everyone know the verdict....

Could be, though it's really hard to say without being the one driving the car. If Sergio is working with you then you're in good hands. Did you guys do anything to the inside of the tranny? If so, what? If not, did your tranny show any of these symptoms prior to the clutch install?

Synchromesh is good, but you really might want to consider Mobil 1. The lining of the blocking rings really seems to like it from my own experience. Choose your own flavor, the above is only my opinion.

 

[Moneypit]

we did nothing with the tranny but change the fluid and no it did not have any of these symptoms before. I'll let you know..

 

[Bizzy]

More than likely then it's got to do with the clutch or maybe something jammed up on the shifter parts. Keep us posted when you find out what it is.

 

[SHOBASS]

Owned my 1990 Sho since new. Replaced PP/friction disc with Sho Nut Ford unit. New stock TOB and resurfaced Flywheel. Replaced blocking rings with new style fibre. Transaxle always filled with conventional Mercon ATF and unit shifted fine. Tried Redline D4ATF and unit became very balky. I could not shift to second or third consistantly even with moderate loads. Just recently drained and replaced the D4 with 3.2 quarts of conventional Valvoline Mercon ATF. Twenty minutes of driving and the transaxle was back to it's old smooth self. Going to next try GM synthetic Syncromesh and then back to the D4ATF with some of Redlines friction modifyer. Found a Redline Cheat Sheet that shows for a '95 -'97 Countour with manual they use 1 1/2 ounces of friction modifyer with their D4. Maybe our transaxles are similar? I have not found Mobil 1 ATF in the San Francisco area.

Andy