New a/c clutch installed-still same problem

[whlav]

Posted a response to Silicons message re a/c problems. Wan't to add this to those who may have already replied to him and don't go back for another look.
94 ATX with all the classic symptoms of bad cluth/clutch coil. Self tests done ,got 888 codes. Gap checked-.030. Tap test done on clutch and it engaged.Went to three different shops. Two tried to sell me new compressor, evaporator,fluid line? etc.. Third shop(the one that checked the gap) said compressor OK but needed clutch w/coil. Went with them. Same old shit. Ran cold in the shop Crapped out a half hour after I picked the car up. Blowing hot and brand new clutch not engaging. Took it back to the shop of course. Can't get to it till next week. Shop said it could be the cycling switch. Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated, Could the gap be wrong on a new clutch? My wife is starting to look at me like I'm crazy for spending more time and money on my SHO than on her. Of course a lot of you may have that same problem. Expert HELP needed!!

 

[Shoman594]

you need to see the system pressure. Go to the store and get a a/c gauge and throw it on there and see. if the r134a is low it will do that.

 

[sdpatt]

The cycling switch is about $10 at any auto supply and can be replaced in minutes. The system pressure is very important to the triggering of the compressor clutch.

 

[naval-avi8or]

I feel your pain. I have had the same problem but living in San Diego had temporarily solved the problem. I just made the big move from San Diego to Jacksonville and the problem resurfaced. As the cars temp reaches operating temp as well as a high OAT the compresser will kick out and not re-engage until the OAT and or the car has cooled. I have managed to turn off the AC for sometime upwards of 1.5 hours while driving to get it to re-engage. I had the system check one morning while it was still operating and everything checked out OK. Drove off the lot and it quit. It was suggested to me that a relay was probably getting hot and not allowing the cluth to engage. If anyone knows please let me know if I'm correct by saying the AC system relays are located in the CCRM.

 

[naval-avi8or]

BTW~ the mech that looked at my system said a majority of the time if it is the cycling swithc it will just fail completly. Also you can tap on the cycling switch when the symptoms are present and get the clutch to engage.

 

[Twisted99]

Some of these have a recall on the cooling fan. I replaced mine. Car would cool fine untill it warmed up. Then it would blow hot air. It was the inboard fan.

 

[Silicon]

An update on my situation. I brought it back in when the clutch they replaced stoped. He tapped a wire and there was no signal comming from the wire going to the switch that controls the engine fan and the ac clutch. So it's a problem from my control unit to the enginefan/ac-clutch switch. Any ideas of what it can be? What it does is come on cold then turn off after about 2 mins then stays warm for 15 mins then comes on for about 2 mins and so on....

 

[naval-avi8or]

The CCRM controls or turns on the fan. The ac will run without the engine fan running. The logic is when the ac is turned on that that the CCRM turns the engine fans on. I was reading the trouble shooting in my service manual and will make an attempt to solve this problem ASAP. BTW~ mine stays off much longer as well as it also stays on longer most of the time.