New 92 SHO Won't Start HELP!!!

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JoeHoe_SHO

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Okay, every time I buy a new SHO, this happens...not quite like this though. Its cranking, have spark, have pressure, and it started once w/starting fluid...only to stall out when I tried to go. Any ideas?

And another thing, I think the clutch is already acting up. When I go into reverse, the engine goes crazy...violent movement, not engine mounts. When I let the clutch out all the way, it goes...but now I can't even start the **** anyway. This kindda sucks frown

<small>[ September 09, 2003, 08:40 PM: Message edited by: JoeHoe_SHO ]</small>
 

MeShoHorny

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Vacum leak, proper ground? What kind of clutch are you running?
 

JoeHoe_SHO

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A condenser looking thing(small round pill looking thing w/a screw hole for ground) is not connected on the right hand side(as you face the engine) I will look tomorrow to see if it grounds to anything. Could it be IAB valve?(air mixture) I don't think it is the timing, cause I was able to start it with starting fluid. Hmmmm....got spark so it can't be crank sensor. What are symptoms of a CAM SENSOR?

Its a stock clutch w/heavy duty pressure plate, and shonut ceramic TOB.

**EDIT** I got it to turn over. I was able to pull the car forward and I let it idle. The tach started to bounce all over the place...it wanted to fall on its face, I was able to give it gas and prevent it from stalling out. I do have a very small coolent leak(at least when it was on stands, have not noticed since running) and I certain it is coming from the waterpump. The tach falling on its face makes me think that its the CPS. I noticed when the CPS died on my 89, it gradually died. Some days it would start hard, somedays it would not...and there were days that it didn't always stall.

IAB SENSOR
Crank Position Sensor
Maybe a Ground

Gotta be one of the three...gonna take a look at it tomorrow since I happen to have it off...ANY HELP UNTIL AND OR AFER THEN IS APPRECIATED!! Thanks

<small>[ September 09, 2003, 10:01 PM: Message edited by: JoeHoe_SHO ]</small>
 

projectSHO89

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That small capacitor is there for RFI suppression. It helps keep static out of the electronics, particularly the audio circuits. It won't affect starting at all.

You can unplug the CID sensor to see if the engine will run without it. The engine may take multiple attempts to start, but once it starts, it will run okay (not geat). The CEL will be on in this failure mode. You can perform the same test with the MAF and BARO sensors unplugged. With these sensors unplugged, the computer goes into FFEM "limp-home" mode and substitutes internally stored values for the sensor inputs. This can help you isolate whether an errant sensor reading is causing drivability issues.

The IAB VALVE (not sensor) supplies metered airflow past the throttle plate. This is critical for starting the engine and for maintaining idle speed. You can try depressing the throttle 1/4 way while starting the engine to see if that helps. If it does, the IAB and its circuits are suspect.

If you have not yet done so, read the KOEO codes!

Steve
 

JoeHoe_SHO

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I disconnected the LPM w/battery disconnected and let it sit for a few minutes and reconnected the lpm. Car started, I took it for a ride. It seemed like it had no balls. I'd floor it in 2nd gear and nothing really happened. :confused:
 

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